[Vwdiesel] swapping a good head - DIY head prep??

[Will Taygan]

okay, okay..  I realize with the Jetta I'll need to pull the valve cover
and look at the bolts, etc.  :)

With a quick look it's 068 103 373M, with a 3ME after it.  Hmmm.. ME?
Hydraulic?  The Jetta engine looks like it's got a vanagon intake and
pulley setup, and I only saw the single large return port between #2 and
#3 injectors (Wife's got the hydraulic 1.6eco at work, but I think there
should be another little bump between #1 and #2?)

ANYWAY, The basic question I have is can I pull a good head and put it
back on, with DIY prep - and what is the recommended procedure.

Or is this a bad idea, and I should always have a shop resurface it,
even if it's a good head?

Thanks, 

Will.

On Mon, 2009-11-09 at 14:41 -0800, Bryan Belman wrote:
> 
> no way to say without doing some research on what heads you have and
> specing things out with the proper measuring tools.
>  
> sounds like you are not sure of what you have and you can get
> back to us when you have both heads on the work bench.
> this is going to take some time.
> 
>  
> Bryan Belman, Pt. Pleasant, NJ
> 04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp -- running :)
> 92 Jetta 1.6 Eco-Turbo Diesel -- running :)
> 82 Diesel Westy 1.9NA -- running :}
> 70 Type 1 stock Beetle -- Not running :( 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________________________
> From: Will Taygan <william at taygan.com>
> To: vwdiesel <vwdiesel at audifans.com>
> Sent: Mon, November 9, 2009 3:16:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] swapping a good head - DIY head prep??
> 
> '82 Westy rebuilt head shaved so much I've got a valve tap?? all the
> time - would like to pull it and put on the junker Jetta (assuming
> it's
> mechanical - it's not the original engine).  Of course it could be a
> loose prechamber - either way I want it off my new rebuild :)
> 
> Question is can I just swap the head, or do I really need a shop to
> shave/clean it up (which isn't really an option).
> 
> I would then put a different rebuilt head (From the '90 Jetta) onto
> the
> '82 Westy, since that's the vehicle I need to run well.
> 
> Maybe I'm doing too much.
> 
> Real problem is constant valve tap on '82 Westy, I think it's shaved
> so
> much that I haven't been able to really adjust it out.  Maybe I could
> pull the head and put in a 3 notch gasket?  (have a 2 notch now)  
> 
> ** But it's the same issue: Can I pull a "good" head and prep it at
> home, or do I need to get it shaved at the shop - which won't work for
> this head (that's the only way they do it up here...)
> 
> I didn't want to toss the Westy head, but re-use it for the '90 Jetta
> (needs rings and gasket, so I've got to pull that head and have it
> rebuilt anyway - just thought I'd keep the better (Jetta) head for the
> good Westy and put the tappy one in the junker Jetta).
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Will.
> 
> (On Mon, 2009-11-09 at 15:03 -0500, LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
> > Maybe it's the flu but I'm not getting why you need to rebuild 
> > the rebuilt head?  Valves can "tap" and not bend, most of us have 
> > had the cam timing off that far at least once and got away with it. 
> > (or at least seen it happen).
> >  If it's not crashed then all you really need, maybe, is a valve or
> two 
> > or so.  It shouldn't be warped should it?
> >  In actuality you can surface those heads a lot more than most
> shops 
> > are willing to go.  I had one that hit the valves when he was
> surfacing 
> > it.  No charge, it was "junk" at that point.  We put it on the car
> and 
> > it ran great!  The only thing you really have to watch is when you 
> > grind the valves and/or seats, the valves drop into the head more 
> > so you really need to shorten the ends of the stems or you end up 
> > using really thin shims to get them in spec.  With hydraulic valves
> it
> > all the more important to end up in range.
> >    Loren
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > 
> 
> 
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