[Vwdiesel] got the car running
Andrew .Libby
libbybapa at gmail.com
Tue Oct 13 09:31:31 PDT 2009
The stop solenoid is comprised of three parts. The outer electromagnetic
coil, the plunger and the spring. The spring always forces the plunger into
the position that stops the running of the engine whenever current is not
getting to the solenoid. I would check to make sure that there isn't
current to the stop solenoid with the key off. If there is, then you have a
wiring issue between the stop solenoid and the ignition switch. If there is
no current to the stop solenoid and yet it does not cut fuel to the engine,
hat would lead me to conclude that either the spring is missing or damaged
or that the stop solenoid plunger is not making a decent seal to the
distributor head. You really need to get the stop solenoid working properly
before trying to remedy the pump issue as you can easily and accidentally
adjust the pump so it will run away and having it do that without a
comfortable way to kill the fuel is just asking for unnecessary stress...
The inability to rev the engine would lead me to believe that you have an
incorrect orientation between the accelerator lever and the accelerator
shaft or that the max fuel screw is not screwed in far enough. Regardless,
you'll need to use some trial and error to get it to all work. You'll need
to balance three adjustments; the max fuel screw, the idle screw and the
accelerator lever to shaft orientation. I would first set the idle screw
where it will allow a bit of adjustment (protruding 3/8" beyond where the
accelerator lever will be stopped without it present). Next, take the top
lever part off by removing the 10mm bolt and nut while holding the lower
lever part to the pump to keep the springs from going boing. I would then
use pliers (be sure to set them within reach prior to taking off the top
lever part...) to rotate the accelerator shaft CCW until you feel
significant spring resistance. Then allow the lever to return to it's
natural stop position from the spring pressure. Allow the bottom lever part
to return CW toward the idle adjustment but leave just enough space to get
the top lever piece on. Replace the top lever piece and rotate it until the
nub fits in the hole.
The stop solenoid is working properly now, right? Then I would start the
vehicle up being fully ready to kill the engine if it starts to run away.
If it does start to run away, then I would loosen the idle adjustment way
back. If it continues to run away with the idle backed way off, then you
will need to jump the accelerator shaft one spline CW relative the
accelerator lever. If it did not initially run away, then I would jumper
the accelerator shaft one spline at a time CCW until it does, and then
jumper it back CW one spline from there. Then adjust the max fuel screw in
or out until you get a very light haze at full pedal. Once the max fuel is
set, then fine tune the idle speed.
Andrew
On Mon, Oct 12, 2009 at 6:16 PM, Dave <vwzoo at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Okay the good part, I got the car running tonight. The problems though.
> I think Loren is right I put the throttle assembley together wrong. The
> engine doesn't respond to the throttle. Also, after replacing the stop
> solinoid it still didn't shut off when I turned the key off. Matter of fact
> it raced more. When I first got the car running a few days ago it didn't
> shut off with the key and so I disconnected the fuel line. I then took off
> the stop solinoid and the plunger wasn't there. I put one that I had from
> one of the other pumps in it. I looked down in the hole and ran a magnet
> down in the hole the stop solinoid in it looking for parts, but I couldn't
> find anything. Maybe there is parts in there that when the solinoid attempts
> to stop the fuel flow it sticks open. Anyway, I need to figure out how to
> correct the throttle problem and the solinoid problem. Thanks for your help.
> I wrote Loren back and told him the pump ended in the numbers 107A.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
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