[Vwdiesel] 82 Rabbit diesel - injector pump lever is "sticky"

[brian gochnauer]

The t-belt cover probably broke when the t-belt broke, causing the 'rebuild'
of the engine...
no cover to install back on the engine.

BrianG


On 9/20/09, Andrew .Libby <libbybapa at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Have you re-installed the timing cover?  It's a really good idea to replace
> the cover as it prevents objects from getting into the timing belt, causing
> it to jump time and ruin the engine.  I've heard of many different
> individuals ruining there engines from having various things get into the
> timing belt including broken alt belts, bolts or nuts that vibrated loose,
> rocks and even a plastic grocery bag that blew up into the engine bay!
>
> If engine oil has been getting onto the timing belt it is especially
> important to address the problem as it can degrade the belt causing it to
> prematurely fail (again, ruining the motor) or cause the intermediate shaft
> to slip (driven on flat side of belt) which in turn drives the oil pump.
> Without the oil pump turning properly, complete engine destruction will
> occur very quickly.
>
> The various sources of oil leakage on the pulley side of the engine are the
> valve cover, the cam seal, the intermediate shaft seal, the intermediate
> shaft seal carrier o-ring, the crankshaft oil seal, the crankshaft seal
> carrier gasket and the head gasket.  The head gasket is least likely so
> don't be alarmed, but I mention it in order to be thorough.  Most likely is
> either the valve cover gasket, one of the three shaft seals or the int
> shaft
> seal carrier o-ring.  It is probably easiest to address all of them at the
> same time along with a timing belt change and replacing the timing cover.
> There is a later single piece rubber valve cover gasket that tends to seal
> a
> whole lot better than the three piece cork/silicone version.  It requires
> shoulderless valve cover studs instead of the stock ones with shoulders.
> The complete kit of gasket and studs can be had for around $20.
>
> Andrew
>
> On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 9:50 AM, Joe <joe at haasenpfeffer.com> wrote:
>
> > I guess I didn't make that clear enough... No, lubing the cable has no
> > effect.  The "sticking" is in the lever itself.  I'll try drowning the
> > lever/springs in WD-40, working it for a day or two, and report back.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of brian gochnauer
> > Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 12:45 PM
> > To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 82 Rabbit diesel - injector pump lever is
> "sticky"
> >
> > If a "gave the cable a generous shot of WD-40" improved the problem, then
> > replacing the cable will probably elminate the problem.
> > If you disconnect the cable from the pump does the lever return normal?
> >
> > BrianG
> >
> >
> > On 9/20/09, Joe <joe at haasenpfeffer.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've got an 82 Rabbit diesel whose injector pump was replaced (by the
> > > previous owner) in mid-2007 with a remanufactured pump from Parts Place
> > > Inc.
> > > Car is from Wisconsin, and was run on biodiesel as well as regular
> > diesel.
> > > I'm running it exclusively on diesel.  I've owned it for about 2 months
> > now
> > > and have put about 3K miles on it.. Gets 42 MPG at 70 MPH.  It's
> > developed
> > > a
> > > "sticking" problem on the accelerator which I've determined is the pump
> > > lever itself, not the cable.  Once the engine is warm, I can pop the
> hood
> > > and grab the lever, increase the engine speed, and it will slowly (like
> > > it's
> > > gummed up) return to the idle position.  If I move it too far, the
> engine
> > > will race and I have to forcably push the lever back to idle.  It will
> > > return to idle by itself eventually, but I don't like to race the
> engine
> > > that high.
> > >
> > > Now I suspect this has been an issue with the pump from the beginning,
> as
> > > the previous owner had also purchased an accelerator cable about 6
> months
> > > later but never installed it.  I looked closely at it and it appears to
> > be
> > > the wrong cable (adjustment at the firewall, not at the pump like the
> > > original).  However, I've adjusted the original cable and gave it a
> > > generous
> > > shot of WD-40... The cable moves quite freely.
> > >
> > > So is it possible that the return springs on the remanufactured pump
> are
> > > orginal and somehow weakened?  I'm thinking about installing an
> > additional
> > > return spring bolted to the passenger fender, just for safety's sake as
> I
> > > do
> > > wish to drive this car frequently.  Or is this a symptom of a more
> > serious
> > > problem which will cause the pump to fail?  Indeed, am I causing more
> > > damage
> > > by using it?  Any input is appreciated.
> > >
> > > Joe
> > >
> > >
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