[Vwdiesel] 82 Rabbit diesel - injector pump lever is "sticky"

[Joe]

Follow-up:  Drowning the lever/springs with WD-40 seems to have done the
trick, at least temporarily.  But I haven't driven it more than 25 miles or
so yet, so I'm not calling it a "success" just yet.  Let's see what my next
250 mile trip brings.  I'm guessing using Gunk on a diesel isn't so good for
the injector pump?

Thanks to all who responded.  I will be looking more closely into the oil
leak next.  Oh, and I do still have the timing belt cover.  The previous
owner (who was also a poster here) said it was "50/50" on leaving the cover
off or putting it back on.  For now, I'm glad he left it off.  The reason is
it appears the side wall on my intermediate shaft pully has a gouge in it.
I've only seen it once when the engine stops in just the right spot.  The
only reason I mention this is that may timing belt has only 10K miles on it
and it appears to be getting "thinner", width wise.  Kinda like an erosion
of the side of the belt.  It's very minute, perhaps a couple tenths of a
millimeter in the last 3K miles, but is noticable.  I never would have seen
this with the cover off.  Of course, this is a subject for a new thread.

But for now, I'm back on the road again.

Joe



-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com] On
Behalf Of LBaird119 at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 12:18 PM
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 82 Rabbit diesel - injector pump lever is "sticky"


> It will return to idle by itself eventually, but I don't like to race the 
> engine
> that high.

 It's actually ok.  The way you set the max rpm is:  warmed 
engine, in neutral, brake set, pull throttle to max, check rpm, 
adjust as needed.

> 
> Now I suspect this has been an issue with the pump from the beginning, as
> the previous owner had also purchased an accelerator cable about 6 months
> later but never installed it.  I looked closely at it and it appears to be
> the wrong cable (adjustment at the firewall, not at the pump like the
> original).  However, I've adjusted the original cable and gave it a 
> generous
> shot of WD-40... The cable moves quite freely.
> 
> So is it possible that the return springs on the remanufactured pump are
> orginal and somehow weakened?  I'm thinking about installing an additional
> return spring bolted to the passenger fender, just for safety's sake as I 
> do
> wish to drive this car frequently.  Or is this a symptom of a more serious
> problem which will cause the pump to fail?  Indeed, am I causing more 
> damage
> by using it?  Any input is appreciated.
> 

  Try some WD-40 on the throttle shaft, lever, springs, where they 
all meet.  Spray it good, work it a couple times and see if that 
doesn't do the trick.  There's a lot of tension on those springs so 
if the cable is adjusted to allow full return, it's unlikely that IT will 
restrict returning to idle.  It's usually in the springs/shaft area.  A 
little lube should fix/help it.
    Loren
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