[Vwdiesel] Valve adjustment WAS: low compression

[Bryan Belman]

Will, I see on this same page they sell a valve stem seal puller/plyers
Does anyone know how important these are to have?  I have never replaced 
those, always let the head guy do it when he was putting new valve guides in.

I would never think of re-using valve stem seals when they are $2 for new ones, 
so, are these needed?
This could be another tool I buy and never use !

 Bryan Belman, Pt. Pleasant, NJ
04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp -- running :<)
92 Jetta 1.6 Eco-Turbo Diesel, 5sp -- running :<)
82 Diesel Westy 1.9NA -- running :<)
70 Type 1 stock Beetle -- Not running :<( 




________________________________
From: Will Taygan <william at taygan.com>
To: "vwdiesel at vwfans.com" <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Thu, August 12, 2010 12:08:44 PM
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Valve adjustment WAS: low compression

If you've got the time, you can pull the shims, and the "should" be
marked (usually I can read them), and then order what you need.  Your
Bentley manual should have instructions.  There is a fairly cheap ($30?)
tool to compress the valve lifters(?) to get the shims out (early
style/late style tool versions).  And another fairly cheap set of pliers
to pull out the shim, although compressed air may work too.

I've got zdmak tools, they're sufficient: http://bit.ly/cMf6IF

vwdieselparts rents a "kit": http://vwdieselparts.com/tools.htm

If you're changing the timing belt you can just pull the cam...

Shims for under $2 at AutohausAZ: http://bit.ly/cGjyJn

Will in Alaska.

On Wed, 2010-08-11 at 14:01 -0500, Chris Geiser wrote:
> Bryan;
> 
> I think you may have hit the issue - checked with my old feeler gauge, the
> valve gaps are too tight.  So I'll get the valves adjusted to where they're
> supposed to be and see what happens.
> 
> I've never adjusted valves - I seem to remember someone mentioning a "kit"
> that has different thicknesses of shims?  Or was that someone wishing that
> there were such a thing?
> Also - do you remove the cam shaft to take out the shims, or is there a way
> of weaseling them out without cam removal?
> And if the valve gap is too low, do you find the feeler that fits, then take
> the shim out and do some math to figure out the correct shim, or is it just
> trial and error of what to put in?
> 
> Thanks again all,
> 
> Chris
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Bryan Belman <dieselwesty at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> >
> > Is this a mechanical head?  If yes, get out the feeler guages.  Do a valve
> > /
> > lifter adjustment on the head with the shims.
> > That could be part of the low compression issue, rather easy to do I guess.
> >
> >
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> 


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