[Vwdiesel] Timing belt and tensioner change

Craig Osborn cosborn at epix.net
Mon Jan 11 21:20:42 PST 2010


Today I changed my timing belt and tensioner.  After the job was done, I
started the truck and it ran but not as good as before.  It ran fine (while
it was running) but acted like it was starved for fuel and kept stalling.  I
looked around and noticed a split in the fuel line that goes from the fuel
pump to the top of the filter.  It was brittle and I guess that it got
cracked when I moved it around while I was working.  I will but some fuel
line and see if that fixes the stalling.
I am concerned about one thing.  I never could find any kind of mark on the
flywheel that looks like the TDC mark that is shown in the manual.  I went
around and around and never found it so I ended up locking the cam with the
cam lobes pointing up - TDC and then locked the fuel pump and changed the
belt and tensioner.  I also made another mistake and set the tension on the
belt while the locking pin was still in the fuel pump.  I only realized my
error after looking at the manual  after I put everything back together.
I plan to open it back up to check the tension but I want to know what I
should do in case my tensioning error made the belt jump a tooth or two.
How can I conform correct timing if I cant see TDC on the flywheel.  Is it
possible to have a flywheel without any markings?


Craig 


> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com 
> [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com] On Behalf Of 
> vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com
> Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 3:00 PM
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 75, Issue 10
> 
> 
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. A4 engine mounts (Shalyn Shourds)
>    2. Re: A4 engine mounts (Tony and Lillie)
>    3. Re: A4 engine mounts (James Hansen)
>    4. Heater question (mikitka)
>    5. Re: Heater question (lbaird119 at aol.com)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 21:08:30 -0600
> From: Shalyn Shourds <sshourds at flash.net>
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] A4 engine mounts
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Message-ID: <4B4A962E.6020602 at flash.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Just a bit of hard-won education for the group.  It's not terribly 
> difficult to strip out the threads on the passenger side "pendulum" 
> mount on a A4 TDI, which you have to remove to do a timing 
> belt.  As of 
> tonight, I can say with relative certainty that a 
> helicoil-style thread 
> repair insert will not take the necessary torque.
> 
> It's going to be a long long walk to work tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> -Shalyn
> 
> New services offered:  killing houseplants, breaking cars, dooming 
> relationships. The only thing you can do with this kind of karma is 
> market it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 21:17:26 -0600
> From: "Tony and Lillie" <tonyandlillie1 at earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] A4 engine mounts
> To: "Shalyn Shourds" <sshourds at flash.net>,	<vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Message-ID: <000601ca926c$9a4b9b90$6b01a8c0 at tfh5lqoxlbb5rh>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
> 
> I dealt with this several times in teh shop, it will also 
> happen to the 
> transmission mount. I can't say that I remember what we did 
> to fix them. but 
> I can say I wish I weren't three hours away, I'd be over after work 
> tomorrow..................................:(
> 
> Tony
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] A4 engine mounts
> 
> 
> > Just a bit of hard-won education for the group.  It's not terribly 
> > difficult to strip out the threads on the passenger side "pendulum" 
> > mount on a A4 TDI, which you have to remove to do a timing 
> belt.  As 
> > of tonight, I can say with relative certainty that a helicoil-style 
> > thread repair insert will not take the necessary torque.
> >
> > It's going to be a long long walk to work tomorrow.
> > 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 00:01:07 -0600
> From: James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net>
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] A4 engine mounts
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Message-ID: <000001ca9283$77d0e3b0$6772ab10$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Well that sucks Shalyn.
> There are other style threaded insert repair devices 
> available.  If there is enough material in the diameter (so 
> the hole you drill can be bigger), you can get threaded 
> inserts that look like the old aircooled case savers- they 
> are a thin piece of carbon steel pipe with threads inside and 
> out. The beauty of this is that they use the next larger tap 
> to install, so you get to use a standard tap to thread the 
> hole.  In this application you need three taps- taper, plug, 
> and bottoming to get full depth blind hole threads so you can 
> screw the repair in, and high strength loctite it in place. 
> Check with your local machine shop. Helicoils actually are 
> stronger than the stock threaded hole- the force distribution 
> is supposed to be better in shear.
> 
> Roger should know. He knows everything. Roger?
> -james
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com 
> [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
> > On Behalf Of Tony and Lillie
> > Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 9:17 PM
> > To: Shalyn Shourds; vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] A4 engine mounts
> > 
> > I dealt with this several times in teh shop, it will also happen to 
> > the transmission mount. I can't say that I remember what we 
> did to fix 
> > them. but I can say I wish I weren't three hours away, I'd be over 
> > after work tomorrow..................................:(
> > 
> > Tony
> > 
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > Subject: [Vwdiesel] A4 engine mounts
> > 
> > 
> > > Just a bit of hard-won education for the group.  It's not 
> terribly 
> > > difficult to strip out the threads on the passenger side 
> "pendulum" 
> > > mount on a A4 TDI, which you have to remove to do a 
> timing belt.  As
> > of
> > > tonight, I can say with relative certainty that a helicoil-style
> > thread
> > > repair insert will not take the necessary torque.
> > >
> > > It's going to be a long long walk to work tomorrow.
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com 
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 06:49:56 -0500
> From: "mikitka" <mikitka at embarqmail.com>
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Heater question
> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Message-ID: <001b01ca92b4$32822900$97867b00$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Need to ask those that have been into the AC/heater core area 
> on an A2 Jetta.  I use to have great heat coming out of the 
> vents but it has slowly moved to just warm heat now with the 
> heat lever moved all the way over to the far right.
> 
>  
> 
> My question is, over the years foam has been blowing out of 
> the vents. I understand this to be the foam seal around the 
> temp control door, right?  If so if all that foam is missing 
> could I now be having an issue with the cold mixing with the 
> heat and now allowing it to seal off the cold side 100% which 
> in turn is causing my heat to be warm instead of hot like it 
> use to be?
> 
>  
> 
> The engine is running just as always and the temp gauge is 
> the same, running just slightly past half way like it always 
> has since I have owned the jetta, which will be over four 
> years now and about 80k miles.
> 
>  
> 
> The coolant is or at least it looks nice and clean and I 
> replaced the head about 20k miles ago and so the coolant is 
> fresh from that point. I didn't specifically flush the heater 
> core lines. By this I mean I didn't hook a hose up to the 
> heater outlet line and let it flush the coolant out backwards 
> through the inlet line to clean out the heater core, if that 
> is at all possible or a good thing to do.  
> 
>  
> 
> Do I need to flush the heater core or is the missing foam my issue?
> 
>  
> 
> This 91 ECO Jetta now a true TD Jetta has been great and a 
> big money saver for me so I want to keep it as long as I can. 
> It just turned over 226k miles total on the vehicle but the 
> engine has 80k on it since I had it rebuilt shortly after I 
> purchased it.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> Nick
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 12:36:06 EST
> From: lbaird119 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Heater question
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Message-ID: <7e5e.4069788b.387cbb86 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> In a message dated 1/11/2010 3:50:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
> mikitka at embarqmail.com writes:
> 
> > Do I need to flush the heater core or is the missing foam my issue?
> > 
> 
>   Could be either or both.  It's easy to flush out the heater with 
> a garden hose.  Disconnect both ends flush one way, then the 
> other and keep doing it until it's clean and flows well (or replace 
> the heater core).  The heater core is where the smallest passages 
> are so if anything's a filter in the system, it's it.
>   The heat mix IS a flapper rather than a coolant valve like on the 
> A1 so leaking foam or a misadjusted cable, broken servo can all 
> make for a cooler heater.  You can put it into recirculate, by 
> putting the selector to the biggest snowflake on the A/C controls. 
> That would eliminate most cold, fresh air ingress and give you an 
> idea if it's the foam.  You'd want to unplug your compressor so that 
> you're not running the A/C though.  
>   It's not uncommon for the flapper controllers/servos to break, the 
> link come loose or the such.  Problably all vacuum controlled.  Not 
> a lot of fun to pull and foam.  Seems like I did while 
> leaving the A/C 
> box in place but I have to be remembering that wrong.
>     Loren
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
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> 
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