[Vwdiesel] some hand holding for crank-seal replacement?

lbaird119 at aol.com lbaird119 at aol.com
Sat Jan 23 23:44:25 PST 2010


In a message dated 1/23/2010 10:44:59 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
william at taygan.com writes:

> okay, okay at 5 below its been slow getting to the crank seal on the '82
> vanagon.  I have however, done the struts and blower fan on the '91 eco
> in the past few weeks. Wow - it's like driving a "newish" car!

  Cool!  :-)

> 
> So, I've got 2 days in a borrowed garage, and was thinking about
> replacing my ever-so dripping engine seals (on a 1500 mi rebuilt, ugh!)
> Yes, I'm planning on clearing the blowby holes on the intake manifold
> (which I just blew through but didn't actually look at before??

  Huh?  Usually it's the screen in the valve cover that needs cleaning.  
Of course you have to dril out the spot welds to get the lower cover 
off of it.

> 
> Thanks for all the details on using angle-iron or flatbar to get the
> crank bolt off.

  Cool again!

> 
> My question is what's the best way to get the crank/intermediate and cam
> seals out and back in.  I was planning on using a curved/hooked pick
> and/or putting some screws in them and yanking, then pounding the news
> ones in with a socket.
> 
> Is there a better/easier way - or any tips to get them in/out
> easier/better?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Will in Alaska.
> 
> 
  That might work well.  I have a body dent puller that works great for 
stuff like that but take a drill, a small bit and a couple sheet metal 
screws.  run them into the face of the seal and then pull or pry it 
out using them to pull on.  No marring the crank surface and you can 
pull on opposite sides and get it out easier, generally. 
  Be sure you replace the o-ring on the intermediate shaft seal carrier.
Removing the two bolts and the whole carrier is the easiest way to do 
that seal anyway.  Almost always that o-ring is hard and split and 
gets missed on an amateur rebuild.
    Loren


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