[Vwdiesel] Front end sub-frame

[Erik Lane]

If the car is sitting on a level surface, use a bullet level and get
the tires pretty close to vertical. (I don't think they're supposed to
be perfectly vertical, but that would be close enough.) Then if you
take a straightedge across the tires you can get the toe-in pretty
close to what it should be by measuring the same place at the front
and rear of the tires with a tape measure from one tire to the other.
If you make them very close to the same front and back (of the front
tires) then it will be pointing pretty well down the road. I don't
have the numbers handy, but I think they're supposed to have a very
slight amount of toe-out to handle properly.

Using this you should at least be close enough to drive. I use it and
am mostly happy with the way my car drives. When I get a chance I'm
still going to have a pro do it right, but finding the time when
neither my wife nor I needs the car for long enough to take care of it
has proven very difficult. Make sure to do the vertical (camber) and
then do the toe-in because the camber adjustment affects the toe-in.

Erik

On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 10:56 PM, raymond greeley <rgreeley2 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hello shayln and others whom replaced bushings. I would like to replace the bushing on my 86 cabrio that i am converting to diesel, where did you find the replacements. I had to replace the steering rack as the cabby was an automatic/gasser.
>
> does any one have a back yard method for getting the alignment close enough that i can drive it while i get some of the other systems sorted out. cold start, glow circuit, second tank (heated) for wvo and all the cosmetics as it has sat for 7+ years.
>
>
>
> r
>
>> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:17:26 -0600
>> From: sshourds at flash.net
>> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Front end sub-frame
>>
>> On 3/12/2010 7:00 PM, Tony and Lillie wrote:
>> > It's actually not all that hard to replace. You will have to unbolt the steering rack, and the rear engine mount IIRC. THen, support the engine from underneath (I usually put a 12" piece of 2x6 under the oil pan. THen, four bolts and it will come off the car. At that point, you have te remove the control arms from it, and I think that should be all. It's been a few years, though, so I might be forgetting some things. It's the same as the Golf also, and should be fairly plentiful.
>> >
>> > BTW, my last three cars have been from the rust belt, and I feel your pain.
>> >
>> > Tony
>> >
>>
>> Agreed. I just R&R'd the one on my '85 Jetta in order to replace the
>> steering rack and it's not all that bad. The only reason it's taken me
>> forever is that I'm not especially motivated. There's also the matter
>> of having to pull the front shift bushing carrier, but I needed to
>> replace the shifter ball in the cab anyways. I'm also taking the
>> opportunity to replace all of the other various bearings and bushings in
>> the front suspension. At 315,000, a disturbing number of them were
>> just...gone. The car still handled pretty well, so I'm eagerly
>> anticipating getting to drive it when I get it put back together
>> finally. I went ahead and put in a little stiffer bushings all the way
>> around. Not that much more expensive and if they're irritatingly firm,
>> I don't drive that car much these days so it won't matter.
>>
>>
>> -Shalyn
>>
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