[Vwdiesel] OT Somewhat--diesel tractor

[Erik Lane]

No, I don't think that you would want conductive, either. You're
talking about a socket where you have both positive and negative
there, right? In that case you would want dielectric if you were going
to put something in there, because you don't want to provide an
alternate path for the electricity to bypass the bulb. But you don't
want much, just barely enough to keep away the oxidization. If you
have too much you can have weird issues. And yeah, even though normal
grease doesn't seem to conduct much (well, at least some kinds - I
haven't gone and tested them) I have had problems with random fuses
burning out and tracking it down to a previous owner's overly liberal
use of grease to absolutely fill and overfill any socket he could
find, from the looks of it!

For the interface between the starter and the block you could use
conductive since you only have one side of the circuit to worry about
and better conduction is very desirable across the whole surface. I
still prefer my connections clean and dry, but I have had a few
problems with corrosion where I've had water leaks into my trunk or on
my fuse block on old cars, so I've considered putting dielectric
grease in there, but just never got a round to it....

Erik

On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 10:05 AM, mark shepherd
<mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Easy to forget when getting old ;o)
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric
>
> Conductive, is what you want; probably with silver...
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bryan Belman" <dieselwesty at yahoo.com>
> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 4:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] OT Somewhat--diesel tractor
>
>
>
> Are you kidding me, Die-electric greese is not conductive, that would
> explain why my rt. side reverse light keeps cutting out, I have it doused in
> that stuff. I had it the other way my intire life ever since I used it on
> the
> shaft of a bug distributer, to lubricate the poits when they ride on it.
> Make sense for there and I just figured you could use it for all electrical
> issues.
>
> thanks, boy, do I feel dumb.
> at my age, not knowing this.
>
> Bryan Belman, Pt. Pleasant, NJ
> 04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp -- running :<)
> 92 Jetta 1.6 Eco-Turbo Diesel, 5sp -- running :<)
> 82 Diesel Westy 1.9NA -- running :<)
> 70 Type 1 stock Beetle -- Running :-)
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Kneale Brownson <knealeski at sbcglobal.net>
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com; LBaird119 at aol.com
> Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 10:23:08 AM
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] OT Somewhat--diesel tractor
>
> I found the OEM battery ground cable, one of those woven copper versions,
> was
> corroded green throughout and starting in places to become brittle. It would
> pass an Ohm meter continuity test, but not provide sufficient ground.
>
> I made up a new ground cable using a section of the old ground cable off my
> '95
> Jetta diesel I'd had to replace because the battery end had broken and the
> extra
> ground spot in the middle was all greened up too. Worked perfectly and it
> has a
> covering to maybe help slow future corroding.
>
> Thanks for the responses.
>
> --- On Fri, 10/8/10, LBaird119 at aol.com <LBaird119 at aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> From: LBaird119 at aol.com <LBaird119 at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] OT Somewhat--diesel tractor
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Friday, October 8, 2010, 6:19 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 10/8/2010 2:04:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> eriklane at gmail.com writes:
>
>> That
>> dielectric grease might be causing you problems. That grease is made
>> to *NOT* conduct electricity, so anything in there covering the bare
>> metal is not going to help you with your electrical connections.
>
> Thus DIE-electirc grease, makes the electicity die. At least that was
> how
> I finally remembered whether it was a conductor or an insulator...
> Loren
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