[Vwdiesel] Oil Leak

[Stephen Kraus]

Well I have a 1981 VW Rabbit with the 11mm block, I have the exact same kit
too. Its actually a kit for the gasser engine, but works fine on the diesel
and it will handle torque higher than that, but 80 should be good

On Mon, Sep 20, 2010 at 10:54 AM, Rudy Petersen <petersenrudy at hotmail.com>wrote:

> I talked this morning with a Tech guy at ARP, he told me that the proper
> torque for 204-4203 Studs is 80 ft. lbs., I tried to address the VW OE
> design limits and he said since they don't have a Stud kit for that
> specific
> application (81 vw diesel, 11mm Head Bolts) he cannot speak whether 80 ft.
> lbs. is more than the VW parts can take or not.
> I'm just concerned the Studs may pull out of the Block Threads if to tight.
> I'm going to re torque the Studs one at a time to 80 ft. lbs. and see what
> happens.
> Rudy
>
>
>  _____
>
> From: brian hoeft [mailto:qweblog at gmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 7:54 AM
> To: Rudy Petersen
> Cc: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Oil Leak
>
>
> Rudy,
> It would be helpful if you could be more precise in your explanation. I'm
> also unaware of which engine you're referring to.
>
> By front of the head, you do mean the timing belt side correct? Not much it
> could be there, cam/intermediate/crank seal, valve cover&head gasket.
>
> I dont believe the head studs need to be re-torqued but someone may chime
> in
> with something more definitive, although your torque values dont match my
> notes. Mind you, this is regarding a 1.6TD (code-MF). My ARP notes say
> 80ft.lbs with ARP moly lube and 120ft.lbs. with 30wt oil.
>
> If everything you did was proper, I would question the work of the machine
> shop. A so-called reputable shop, locally, cost me a lot of money and could
> have hurt my reputation, so I now have to travel 100 miles round trip to
> have confidence in that aspect.
>
> Also, what compression "appears" to be is not always the case. As im sure
> you know, cold compression isn't hot compression. If the guy brought you
> the
> car running and failed to tell you that it took several more cranks than
> usual to start, that could be a tell tale sign. Otherwise, only a
> compression or leakdown test would really answer the question.
>
> Also, be careful you're not deceived by oil that gets moved around be the
> fan or pressure. I've seen plenty of oil leaks that look like theyre coming
> from somewhere other than the actual source.
>
> -Brian
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Rudy Petersen <petersenrudy at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> I'm working on a Customer Car that came in with an Oil leak in the front of
> the Head.  I had completely rebuilt the Engine, Head was machined flat as
> well as the Block surface.  I used ARP Head Studs and torqued them to OE
> spec (65 ft. lbs.) I didn't re torque the Studs and there is 3000 miles
> since the install.
>
> Engine runs very well, no Oil in Water and doesn't appear to be any loss of
> compression.  I'm going to re torque the Studs and clean up the area and
> see
> what happens.  Anyone ever run across this?
>
> Rudy
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>
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______________________________
Stephen Kraus
UB3RATL4Sf00 at gmail.com;