[Vwdiesel] Oil Leak

[Rudy Petersen]

will do Bryan, if not I'll pop the head off and start over.  That's kind of
what my better judgment is telling me anyway....Rudy


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From: Bryan Belman [mailto:dieselwesty at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:13 PM
To: Rudy Petersen
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Oil Leak


let us know if this works, I sure hope so.

 
Bryan Belman, Pt. Pleasant, NJ
04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp -- running :<)
92 Jetta 1.6 Eco-Turbo Diesel, 5sp -- running :<)
82 Diesel Westy 1.9NA -- running :<)
70 Type 1 stock Beetle -- Not running :<( 



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From: Rudy Petersen <petersenrudy at hotmail.com>
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Sent: Mon, September 20, 2010 12:54:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Oil Leak

I talked this morning with a Tech guy at ARP, he told me that the proper
torque for 204-4203 Studs is 80 ft. lbs., I tried to address the VW OE
design limits and he said since they don't have a Stud kit for that specific
application (81 vw diesel, 11mm Head Bolts) he cannot speak whether 80 ft.
lbs. is more than the VW parts can take or not.
I'm just concerned the Studs may pull out of the Block Threads if to tight.
I'm going to re torque the Studs one at a time to 80 ft. lbs. and see what
happens.
Rudy


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From: brian hoeft [mailto:qweblog at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 7:54 AM
To: Rudy Petersen
Cc: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Oil Leak


Rudy,
It would be helpful if you could be more precise in your explanation. I'm
also unaware of which engine you're referring to. 

By front of the head, you do mean the timing belt side correct? Not much it
could be there, cam/intermediate/crank seal, valve cover&head gasket.

I dont believe the head studs need to be re-torqued but someone may chime in
with something more definitive, although your torque values dont match my
notes. Mind you, this is regarding a 1.6TD (code-MF). My ARP notes say
80ft.lbs with ARP moly lube and 120ft.lbs. with 30wt oil.

If everything you did was proper, I would question the work of the machine
shop. A so-called reputable shop, locally, cost me a lot of money and could
have hurt my reputation, so I now have to travel 100 miles round trip to
have confidence in that aspect.

Also, what compression "appears" to be is not always the case. As im sure
you know, cold compression isn't hot compression. If the guy brought you the
car running and failed to tell you that it took several more cranks than
usual to start, that could be a tell tale sign. Otherwise, only a
compression or leakdown test would really answer the question.

Also, be careful you're not deceived by oil that gets moved around be the
fan or pressure. I've seen plenty of oil leaks that look like theyre coming
from somewhere other than the actual source.

-Brian




On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Rudy Petersen <petersenrudy at hotmail.com>
wrote:


I'm working on a Customer Car that came in with an Oil leak in the front of
the Head.  I had completely rebuilt the Engine, Head was machined flat as
well as the Block surface.  I used ARP Head Studs and torqued them to OE
spec (65 ft. lbs.) I didn't re torque the Studs and there is 3000 miles
since the install.

Engine runs very well, no Oil in Water and doesn't appear to be any loss of
compression.  I'm going to re torque the Studs and clean up the area and see
what happens.  Anyone ever run across this?

Rudy
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