[Vwdiesel] mkII diesel valve adjustment

[Dave Cook]

If I had to order them and wanted to avoid buying the tools, I would measure the clearances then lock the pump in place and pull the cam, the pucks will come out easily with a magnet then.  

Then you can see what is in there and order the right ones-assuming the old ones weren't put in upside down and the markings weren't rubbed off...  

Then you can tighten the cam back down and rattle on down the road til the new ones come in, or let it sit.

Then pull the cam again and put the new ones in.  

However, if you are willing to order them, you can get a whole kit that includes the pliers, the compressor tool, and a slew of shims.  Makes the job pretty handy.  

Though last time, I got frustrated dicking with the pliers so after measuring I pulled the cam and each puck in order and then figured what I needed all at once.  That was handy because the markings were rubbed off on some, so I could compare them to marked pucks and figure out what size they were.

 
Dave Cook


________________________________
 From: "LBaird119 at aol.com" <LBaird119 at aol.com>
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com 
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] mkII diesel valve adjustment
 

In a message dated 11/27/2011 2:41:23 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
vegbenz300 at gmail.com writes:

Also, I  guess that I need to go in to the valve cover, remove the pucks,
get their  tolerances, do the math to figure out what pucks are needed, then
put it  back together till I can order the pucks needed.  Is there a  
simpler
way?  Does anyone know of a good online tutorial on the  process?




There's a couple ways to do it.  You pretty much need the  spring compressor
tool (kind of a "J" shaped tool.  There's gas and diesel so you need  the 
correct 
one.  I've done it with a pair of large screwdrivers but don't know  how.  
Couldn't 
the last time I tried!
  There are puck pliers that work well most of the time.  You can  also use 
compressed air to blow them out of the tappet, or needle nosed pliers,  
small 
screwdriver, etc.
  Now to the pucks.  You have two options.  Get a  kit/collection of pucks 
so that 
you can swap as you go or pull each one, clean, read or mic the thickness,  
write 
it down.  Then measure your clearance, subtract the correct clearance  
(.010" IN, 
.018" EX, while hot) and then calculate the correct shims, see how many  
will 
swap around from the other cylinders, then order what you're short.   IIRC, 
.002" =
.05mm or, one shim thickness.  If it's off by more than .1mm, you'll  
probably still 
end up off by one thickness.  Never seems to fail when doing it by  
calculation.  At 
least you're allowed + .05mm when adjusting and + .1mm when  "checking."
  Check each cylinder when both lobes are equally "up" which is one  
forward/up and 
one back/up.
    Loren
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Pacific Standard Time,  
vegbenz300 at gmail.com writes:

Also, I  guess that I need to go in to the valve cover, remove the pucks,
get their  tolerances, do the math to figure out what pucks are needed, then
put it  back together till I can order the pucks needed.  Is there a  
simpler
way?  Does anyone know of a good online tutorial on the  process?




There's a couple ways to do it.  You pretty much need the  spring compressor
tool (kind of a "J" shaped tool.  There's gas and diesel so you need  the 
correct 
one.  I've done it with a pair of large screwdrivers but don't know  how.  
Couldn't 
the last time I tried!
  There are puck pliers that work well most of the time.  You can  also use 
compressed air to blow them out of the tappet, or needle nosed pliers,  
small 
screwdriver, etc.
  Now to the pucks.  You have two options.  Get a  kit/collection of pucks 
so that 
you can swap as you go or pull each one, clean, read or mic the thickness,  
write 
it down.  Then measure your clearance, subtract the correct clearance  
(.010" IN, 
.018" EX, while hot) and then calculate the correct shims, see how many  
will 
swap around from the other cylinders, then order what you're short.   IIRC, 
.002" =
.05mm or, one shim thickness.  If it's off by more than .1mm, you'll  
probably still 
end up off by one thickness.  Never seems to fail when doing it by  
calculation.  At 
least you're allowed + .05mm when adjusting and + .1mm when  "checking."
  Check each cylinder when both lobes are equally "up" which is one  
forward/up and 
one back/up.
    Loren
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Vwdiesel mailing list
Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
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