[Vwdiesel] Hello, 154K on the 04 Jetta now, maint. questions
Travis .
tgott at hotmail.com
Sat Dec 22 18:01:51 PST 2012
1. Either an open end wrench or a metric crescent wrench (that is a joke fyi on the metric part) will grab onto the square tab and then you can either put a large nail or an allen wrench in the hole to pin in place while removing the belt. Then you unpin and unbolt.
2. To clean it is best to take the intake off. Which stinks with the EGR cooler on there. You need to remove the piping from the filter to the turbo and the intercooler to the intake. Then remove the EGR pipes and valve. From there you are kind of blindly removing the allen bolts holding the intake on. You can re-use these bolts/gasket. Then power washing and/or using a babybottle brush with cleaner will get things cleaned out. But it won't do much good if you keep the EGR in place. I cleaned mine 50K ago and it is clean as the EGR is no longer there. But you need both a delete kit and programing so you don't get a code poping up.
3. That thing at the end of the head is the tandem fuel pump. You have an in-tank fuel pump that boosts to around 7 psi. Then the tandem pump boosts to around 15 psi at the end of the head driven from the cam and then the injectors boost to final injection pressure. There was/is a recall on that if leaking depending on the leak I think. Some leak externally and can cause a fire hazzard. Some leak internally diluting the oil and over filling. I am guessing it is more likely one of the hoses. It stinks that they only sell the hoses with the metal lines attached at around $170 and there isn't a good way to put a straight piece on. Mine was leaking on a hose so I bought the expensive piping to replace. It may be one of the gaskets though. And the valve covers are known to leak as well. It is suppose to be re-useable. Depending on the part number some are replacable at a fair cost and others aren't at all. Brothers was leaking-but they tend to leak from the rear-not the side. Good time to check cam wear. You need to bump the starter to roll the cam to see each lob with valve cover off. Brother needed a cam at 140K. I am still going yet (knock on wood).
Travis
>
> This is BEW TDI motor or the PD engine.
> So, doing my annual LOTS of work to the motor.? Most of the year, I do very little.
>
> new fuel filter, air, cabin, and OEM thermo sender, so my CEL will go out finally.? The aftermarket sender did not last long.
>
> I also have this singing sound on acceleration in cold weather, but almost all the time now, so something must be going bad, it is not to much tension on the timing belt, I have checked that a few times.
>
> So, next to swap is the serp. belt tensioner.? I have a new one.? I am thinking the roller bearing is going and it does flop around a lot.
>
> questions.
> 1. How the hell do you get the tension off the old one so I can talk the belt off and remove it.
> I see the square tab on the top of it that looks like you put something on it to crank it back and then you can put the pin in it like the new one has.? What do you grab this with, special VW tool???
>
> 2. in Removing the intake hose to the intake manifold from the inner cooler, I see LOTS of gun in there, past the big flapper valve.? The flapper looks good, but beyond that is lots of turbulence on air flow for sure.
> How do you clean this, to I have to remove the intake manifold from the back of the head.
>
> 3. I have a good oil leak, it looks like it is coming from the valve cover gasket or the pump thing at the end driver side end of the head, maybe the seal between this and the cam that drives it.? What is this thing, has fuel lines going to it.?/?? are these prone to lead oil at higher miles.
>
> thanks in advance, time for bed.
>
>
>
> ?
> Bryan Belman, Pt. Pleasant, NJ
> 04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp -- running :<)
> 04?Golf TDI PD, 100hp,?5sp Tiptronic Auto?-- running :<)
> 82 Diesel Westy 1.9NA -- running :<)
> 70 Type 1 stock Elm Green Beetle -- Under Restoration :-)
>
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