[Vwdiesel] What is normal coolant/radiator temps?

[brian hoeft]

Under normal operating conditions you should see between 180&220 in
Fahrenheit, although if you are seeing above 200 for prolonged periods
other than long pulls, that would indicate inefficiency in cooling or too
much fueling/inaccurate timing.

The rad hoses should be nearly identical to the touch once the t-stat opens
and fans kick on.

I don't have much faith in VAG temp gauges/circuits, especially 30 year old
ones, so that's something subjective to your automobile.


On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 3:01 AM, Will Taygan <lists at alaskabiodiesel.org>wrote:

> '82 1.6NA diesel Westy.  10k on full rebuild.  Retrofitted later-style
> coolant system (radiator/tank/hoses)
>
> I've been fighting with this coolant heat-up for months.  Not critical,
> but I think it's not right and I want to fix it before summer.
>
> How hot should each of the pipes flowing to/from the radiator be, and
> how hot should the radiator be with the temp gauge reading 3/4?
>
> I get a hot/warm pipe going to the rad, a barely warm rad (20F out) and
> a cool/cold pipe going back - except for the return rubber hose in the
> engine compartment (which also gets the oil cooler flow.) that hose gets
> quite hot - all the way up to the metal coolant pipe.  Shouldn't the
> flow from the rad cool that lower return hose, even with the hot flow
> from the oil cooler?
>
> I'm used to the Jetta which would spread heat out immediately, but with
> the long coolant pipes I wonder if that doesn't happen with the Van?
> WHAT IS GOING ON??
>
> I'm wondering if I could have a blocked 1 1/4" metal pipe?? It's a brand
> new radiator, and I've tried 2 used ones.
>
> Driving on any little hill - or even accelerating on the flats - bumps
> the temp gauge from 1/2 up to 3/4.  Doesn't seem to go higher than that.
> Radiator gets a little warm (60F) in the upper right corner, head temps
> with an IR gauge approach 200F.
>
> My last Diesel Westy would stay just above the light in the middle
> unless I was cruising up a big hill, and then the radiator would get hot
> and the fan would kick on.  This one isn't acting that way.
>
> Current van is kinda acting like a head gasket leak but has compression
> of 430, 450, 450 450.  There IS some air in the system, but last time I
> checked it tested negative for exhaust gases (Hmmmm....)
>
> Replaced 3 pressure tank caps - still doesn't seem to work right with
> the overflow tank??
> Tried 3 different radiators.
> Replaced thermostat with a tested good one.
> Checked water pump.
>
> I haven't changed the sender out and I haven't run a sewer snake through
> the 1 1/4" metal pipes.  Sender seems fine, and I can't imagine those
> giant pipes clogging??
>
> If I stick an aftermarket sensor in to read actual coolant temps, where
> would I read them from?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Will in Alaska.
>
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-- 
*       -Brian*
      [blinders off&ear <http://208.53.138.125:8068/>plugs out]