[Vwdiesel] Governor shaft/pump advance Re: [Diesel-Vanagon] What is normal coolant/radiator temps?

[Will Taygan]

Jim, my governor shaft("advance screw") looks about right - I'm worried
about screwing it in any further and possibly binding the governor
shaft? I have no idea if this would happen, but I'm cautious.  

You did get me thinking about the fuel delivery, though.  I've got 10k
rebuilt injectors (very good local shop) although I did just replace one
injector that might have been leaking (or I just opened it up after it
sprayed?)  

The pump I've got has "rebuilt" or something like that stamped on the
front edge (parallel to the sprocket), and has the correct Vanagon pump
numbers stamped over the top of a 107A(?) car pump.  Seems to be an
official rebuild?  I don't really know what's inside though.  I will
double check the advance, although the cold start cable is working
perfectly - clatter then smooth when pulled out on cold starts.

Nest step is to get a real temp gauge on the head.  I've got an open
spot on the flange, just no one in town has a 1/8npt to m10x1 adapter,
so I've got one on order.

I think I'll wait til the hose starts running again before I sewer snake
the pipes..

Will in Alaska.

On Wed, 2012-02-08 at 07:07 -0600, James Felder wrote:
> Will,
> 
> On the diesel, one thing that might do this is the advance screw on the front of the pump if the  advance screw is just flush with the locks crew, you are ok
> 
> If it sticks out even half a turn past the face of the lock screw, it could run hot. 
> 
> You should do a pressure test on the whole cooling system. I had a similar problem that turned out to be a pinhole leak at a hose so small that my regular reading glasses couldn't see it. It took months to find. It was never allowing full system pressure to occur, and caused the car to run hot up the least hill. 
> 
> You haven't changed to the wrong diameter water pump pulley, have you?
> 
> Keep us posted. I have A similar problem on a diesel jetta right now. 
> 
> Jim
> 
> On Feb 8, 2012, at 2:01 AM, Will Taygan <lists at ast .ore> wroteull:
> '82 1.6NA diesel Westy. 10k on full rebuild. Retrofitted later-styled
> > coolant system (radiator/tank/hoses)
> > 
> > I've been fighting with this coolant heat-up for months. Not critical,
> > but I think it's not right and I want to fix it before summer.
> > 
> > How hot should each of the pipes flowing to/from the radiator be, and
> > how hot should the radiator be with the temp gauge reading 3/4? 
> > 
> > I get a hot/warm pipe going to the rad, a barely warm rad (20F out) and
> > a cool/cold pipe going back - except for the return rubber hose in the
> > engine compartment (which also gets the oil cooler flow.) that hose gets
> > quite hot - all the way up to the metal coolant pipe. Shouldn't the
> > flow from the rad cool that lower return hose, even with the hot flow
> > from the oil cooler? 
> > 
> > I'm used to the Jetta which would spread heat out immediately, but with
> > the long coolant pipes I wonder if that doesn't happen with the Van?
> > WHAT IS GOING ON??
> > 
> > I'm wondering if I could have a blocked 1 1/4" metal pipe?? It's a brand
> > new radiator, and I've tried 2 used ones.
> > 
> > Driving on any little hill - or even accelerating on the flats - bumps
> > the temp gauge from 1/2 up to 3/4. Doesn't seem to go higher than that.
> > Radiator gets a little warm (60F) in the upper right corner, head temps
> > with an IR gauge approach 200F.
> > 
> > My last Diesel Westy would stay just above the light in the middle
> > unless I was cruising up a big hill, and then the radiator would get hot
> > and the fan would kick on. This one isn't acting that way.
> > 
> > Current van is kinda acting like a head gasket leak but has compression
> > of 430, 450, 450 450. There IS some air in the system, but last time I
> > checked it tested negative for exhaust gases (Hmmmm....)
> > 
> > Replaced 3 pressure tank caps - still doesn't seem to work right with
> > the overflow tank??
> > Tried 3 different radiators.
> > Replaced thermostat with a tested good one.
> > Checked water pump.
> > 
> > I haven't changed the sender out and I haven't run a sewer snake through
> > the 1 1/4" metal pipes. Sender seems fine, and I can't imagine those
> > giant pipes clogging??
> > 
> > If I stick an aftermarket sensor in to read actual coolant temps, where
> > would I read them from?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Will in Alaska.
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
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