[Vwdiesel] Governor shaft/pump advance Re: [Diesel-Vanagon] What is norma...

[LBaird119 at aol.com]

In a message dated 2/9/2012 11:12:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
lists at alaskabiodiesel.org writes:

Nest  step is to get a real temp gauge on the head.  I've got an open
spot  on the flange, just no one in town has a 1/8npt to m10x1 adapter,
so I've  got one on order.



One issue I found with head temp gauges.  If the sensor is  adapted out 
too far from the flow, the reading is surprisingly low.  :-P
 
  If you're running a 180F stat, I'd be inclined to drain out the  coolant, 
fill 
with water and start popping hoses with a fast idle and see what your 
flow is.  Prior to that, it might be a good excuse to buy an IR  
thermometer.  
Recently pointed mine at the 454 which isn't running quite right.  WAY  big 
differences in temps on a couple cylinders.  Before I do new wires,  cap, 
etc, 
I'll record that and see if it cures the differences.  If not then  I'll 
keep chasing.
Same with your coolant.  Check temps and see where the heat is going,  how 
hot, etc.
  You'd mentioned coolant coming back from rad was cold, I  believe.  
Indeed it 
should be.  Most of your heat will circulate through the heater  circuit 
(which will 
also come back surprisingly cold in Winter) and the oil "cooler" is on that 
 same 
loop so that might explain some of the oddity you were noticing.  
  Just because your gauge is at 3/4, it doesn't necessarily mean it's  
running 
hot.  Check the actual coolant temp before you go chasing  things.  They 
vary 
a lot from vehicle to vehicle, sometimes.
    Loren