[Vwdiesel] FW: tdi heat

[Andrew .Libby]

James it sounds like you are saying the block is not in the coolant loop
until the thermostat is open.  I'm not familiar with the coolant flow path
of the ALH and later engines, but certainly the earlier ones push coolant
ONLY into the block and pull coolant down the bypass hose and the heater
circuit until the thermostat is opened.  The block is always in the loop.

Andrew

On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 8:21 AM, James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net> wrote:

> Yes very much X2.
> Always remember, the thermostat closed circuit only involves the head and
> heater core.  As soon as it opens, the rad is involved, and the block.
>  Volume to the heater core drops off dramatically. Run as high a temp
> thermostat as you can find, be sure it works.  If it doesn't, you have no
> heat to speak of when it's cold.  At 0F, my 97, 05, and 12 will all cook
> your arse out of the car, as well as any other I've had with the exception
> of the A1 1.6 non-turbo.   The A1 just made insufficient heat to keep the
> car warm in the cold. (-20 to -40)
> I'm 300km from Pat, and yeah, I can echo, it all has to be perfect to not
> be cold in the car in the cold.  If you live where you have warm winters
> (like above 0) you should have heat or something is just not right. Easiest
> is to start with the thermostat, and don't cheap out on it.  Buy the good
> made in the fatherland one, not a brandless, unstamped, knockoff from the
> discount shop.
> -james
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com] On
> Behalf Of pmdolan at sasktel.net
> Sent: January-06-12 6:17 AM
> To: Vwdiesel at vwfans.com; Gerry Wolfe
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] FW: tdi heat
>
> It is vitally important that the thermostat seals off the rad when cold
> (IMHO, the reason these are so variable and some are so bad).  Not
> only does the rad suck up heat like mad (being FAR more capacity than
> the heat exchanger in the interior), but flow down the heater line will
> also be lost.
>
> In places that are not really cold (below -20C = -4F) they ALL seem to
> work well enough.  Drop below that, however, and everything has to be
> "right" for a TDI to provide reasonable HVAC performance.
>
> On Thu, 5 Jan 2012 17:56:33 -0800, Gerry Wolfe <GerryWolfe at shaw.ca> wrote:
> Not sure about the 14F issue to start the coolant glowplug, at least on my
> > '97 Jetta TDI, it rarely gets that cold on Vancouver Island.  However, I
> get
> > lots of interior heat within a minute or so of starting up, long before
> the
> > temp gauge even starts to move, at temps well above freezing.
> >
> > Side issue: temp gauge rarely got above 1/4 level, only hit 1/2 way when
> > under big load.  Had the thermostat replaced this fall with antifreeze
> > change, and now it quickly goes to 1/2 way and doesn't budge, come hell
> or
> > high mountains.  I am assuming that being stuck open (and always running
> > thru the rad) negated whatever the coolant glowplugs were doing.
> >
> > rgds, g.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of Chris Geiser
> > Sent: January-05-12 4:10 PM
> > To: Vwdiesel
> > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] tdi heat
> >
> > So after the responses here, I've been reading more about the coolant
> glow
> > plugs - sounds like they may not be working (04 Jetta BEW - manual
> > tranny).  The next time it gets cold, I'll check if there's current to
> the
> > plugs - from what I read, coolant glow plug system only comes on when
> below
> > 14 F (and we're in a heat wave now with +40 predicted for tomorrow).
> >
> > Also - If I put an Ohmmeter on the positive post and on the block, what
> > should the resistance be if plugs are good / bad?  Seems to me I remember
> > that being a legitimate way to check them if not powered by a common bar,
> > or if I disconnect the bar?
> >
> > TIA again!!
> >
> > CG
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