[Vwdiesel] cement

[Roger Brown]

Along side the Shoe Goo you should be able to find Automotive Goop which seems to be a bit 
heavier duty than the shoe stuff.  I've used it on some items around the engine and it has 
held up for over 10 years.  Have not tried the POR Patch, sounds like it may work.

I did some intake plumbing and avoided gluing to the stock parts:
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/index.shtml#ColdAirIntake

Just used a friction fit onto the stock intake tube and a single sheet metal screw to lock 
it in place.  Makes it easy to remove for access to the engine,


On 12/7/2013 8:10 PM, Doyt W. Echelberger wrote:
> My first idea is to try
> Shoo-Glue.
> http://www.cvs.com/shop/product-detail/Shoe-Gear-Shoe-Goo-Clear?skuId=348063
>
> My second idea is to
> use  http://www.advanced-rust-protection.com/por-15-porpatch.htm
>
> But that is more complicated.  I do a lot of body work in the warmer
> months maintaining my fleet of old German cars, and in the past three
> years have relied on a heavy duty construction adhesive and seam
> filler called POR PATCH. It is thick and black....  you squeeze it
> from a tube, and the air starts it setting up.   Most people use it
> to patch rusted metal. It is expensive and it does the job.
>
> I suggest it because it has stuck to EVERYTHING that it touched as I
> worked with it.....which was a problem because I didn't want it on
> other surfaces. My "flaw" may be your sweet spot.
> I personally use it on rusted steel, to fill rust-pit holes, and to
> hold sheet aluminum patches to bridge large gaps in the body metal.
> You might WIRE the parts together with steel twist'ms and apply this
> stuff as it comes from the tube, and move it around with a small
> brush that you can sacrifice.
>
> Once in place and set up, it lasts for years in all kinds of nasty
> environments, up to 500 degrees.
>
> If I needed to do what you describe, I'd TRY it on the black plastic
> that makes up the filter housing, guessing that if the plastic parts
> were roughened up by a body file and very rough-grained carborundum
> wheel, the stuff would hold other fittings in place. You could even
> drill some small holes (1/8th or less?) in the plastic to take in the
> fluid adhesive, and it would act like a plastic screw when it hardened.
>
> It takes hours to set up at room temperature, and I'd limit the
> coating to no more than an eighth inch thick in my preliminary
> experiments. Let it finish setting up overnight if possible.
>
> It won't ever come off your hands if you let it set up there. Wear
> gloves and use esters, ketones, and aromatic solvents to clean it off
> tools, brushes, and
> skin.
> http://www.advanced-rust-protection.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=P&Product_Code=SV&Category_Code=Solvent
>
> You may have to order it online, or special order it from a POR 15 dealer.
>
> My first idea my be the solution, not expensive, easy to find, try
> and move on to something else.
>
> Doyt Echelberger
>   >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> At 01:07 AM 12/7/2013, you wrote:
>> Has anybody on the list had any success gluing or cementing the plastic
>> that comprises our filter box on mk1s or 2s?  I'd like to find a way
>> to combine
>> either some pvc or abs fittings and pipe w the airbox. I could use silicone I
>> suppose and some screws and so on. But It would be so much cleaner to
>> use the appropriate glue or cement.
>> Peter
>
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>

-- 
   Roger