[Vwdiesel] bad brakes on 2001 Jetta

[Mark Shepherd]

Interesting discussion.
I've never used a powered/suction system, although I did make a failed bid on a Gunson's one recently. I naturally started on the 2 man system of holding 
pedal down. 
I moved on to a length of clear tube arching up and then down into a bottle. On the end of the tube is a ball bearing stuffed into the end. About 1/2" back up 
the tube is a small bore hole.Pushed over the tube is a 'rubber' tube fitting tightly over the clear tube such that it goes say an inch beyond the hole back up 
the line, creating a one-way valve that is biased to drip conveniently out the end under pressure. 

I suspect that one factor for the brake failure s when bleeding may be more so on brakes that have been dormant for extended periods rather than just old 
but used daily. I don't think that full strokes are necessary as long as the fluid is moving.Sufficient speed to overcome climbing air, although if that is an issue 
I can't see why it doesn't climb during use and self bleed... I swear my Quantum does this to some extent! Can seals still be purchased? In the old days I 
have packed behind the master cylinder seal to increase tension against the bore, and added a secondary seal behind the old one on British stuff.

To find out what is failing, I use a carb balancing vacuum gauge on the line. Check for max vac, response to pushes , overnight leaks etc Weak mk2 type 
vane pumps can easily be improved by rotating the vanes. There are 3 spare 'new edges' enough to last some 60-to 75 years! 

Mark

Does anyone have a do it yourself tire bead breaker they can recommend?

========================================
Message Received: Jul 08 2013, 05:54 PM
From: "Kneale Brownson" 
To: "Rolf Pechukas" 
Cc: "vwdiesel at vwfans.com" 
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] bad brakes on 2001 Jetta

No more than 15 lbs. google home made brake bleeder.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 8, 2013, at 9:12 AM, Rolf Pechukas  wrote:

> OK, so you guys are fighting about whether pedal pushing or power bleeding is preferable
> 
> but in either case, you are using pressure to *push* fluid out at the bleed nipples
> 
> no one is advocating vacuum bleeding - suction at the bleed nipples - which is what my mechanic was doing and I was questioning (was sucking air past 
the threads, and you could never tell whether you had solid fluid or not)
> 
> seems to me, ideal practice would be: constant compressor-based pressure at the reservoir, steady 25 lbs or whatever, pushing an extra 'column' of 
brake fluid attached to the reservoir, so you don't ever run dry
> 
> bleed nipples in order, then stomp pedal to drive any bubbles toward nipples, then bleed in order again, repeat until all air gone
> 
> if I had the car, I'd do something like that
> 
> any advice on how to suggest a pressure-based bleed to the mechanic? I don't want to pay him for the work and then have to re-do it myself - too much 
other stuff going on
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Rolf in MA
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