[Vwdiesel] bad brakes on 2001 Jetta

[James Hansen]

Mark:
This style mostly does not work well, usually too weak:
http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html
This is spectacular:
https://www.irvansmith.com/scart/tire-bead-breaker-p-969.html?%3CosCsid%3E
Also sold by allstar:
http://pitstopusa.com/c-133690-sprint-car-parts-wheels-accessories-tire-bead
-breakers.html

THe last two will pop off ANY car tire bead.  We dry mount our tires on the
race cars, usually tubeless, and after worn out and heat cycled will not
dismount for anything, I've used everything from tire sledges, to a bobcat
with forks, it will not release.  The Allstar bead breaker I have takes it
off like there was no issue in the first place, and it's a challenge even
for the tire shop bead breaker to get them off.
James

-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com] On
Behalf Of Mark Shepherd
Sent: July-08-13 9:36 PM
To: KnealeBrownson; vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] bad brakes on 2001 Jetta

Interesting discussion.
I've never used a powered/suction system, although I did make a failed bid
on a Gunson's one recently. I naturally started on the 2 man system of
holding pedal down. 
I moved on to a length of clear tube arching up and then down into a bottle.
On the end of the tube is a ball bearing stuffed into the end. About 1/2"
back up the tube is a small bore hole.Pushed over the tube is a 'rubber'
tube fitting tightly over the clear tube such that it goes say an inch
beyond the hole back up the line, creating a one-way valve that is biased to
drip conveniently out the end under pressure. 

I suspect that one factor for the brake failure s when bleeding may be more
so on brakes that have been dormant for extended periods rather than just
old but used daily. I don't think that full strokes are necessary as long as
the fluid is moving.Sufficient speed to overcome climbing air, although if
that is an issue I can't see why it doesn't climb during use and self
bleed... I swear my Quantum does this to some extent! Can seals still be
purchased? In the old days I have packed behind the master cylinder seal to
increase tension against the bore, and added a secondary seal behind the old
one on British stuff.

To find out what is failing, I use a carb balancing vacuum gauge on the
line. Check for max vac, response to pushes , overnight leaks etc Weak mk2
type vane pumps can easily be improved by rotating the vanes. There are 3
spare 'new edges' enough to last some 60-to 75 years! 

Mark

Does anyone have a do it yourself tire bead breaker they can recommend?

========================================
Message Received: Jul 08 2013, 05:54 PM
From: "Kneale Brownson" 
To: "Rolf Pechukas" 
Cc: "vwdiesel at vwfans.com" 
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] bad brakes on 2001 Jetta

No more than 15 lbs. google home made brake bleeder.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 8, 2013, at 9:12 AM, Rolf Pechukas  wrote:

> OK, so you guys are fighting about whether pedal pushing or power 
> bleeding is preferable
> 
> but in either case, you are using pressure to *push* fluid out at the 
> bleed nipples
> 
> no one is advocating vacuum bleeding - suction at the bleed nipples - 
> which is what my mechanic was doing and I was questioning (was sucking 
> air past
the threads, and you could never tell whether you had solid fluid or not)
> 
> seems to me, ideal practice would be: constant compressor-based 
> pressure at the reservoir, steady 25 lbs or whatever, pushing an extra 
> 'column' of
brake fluid attached to the reservoir, so you don't ever run dry
> 
> bleed nipples in order, then stomp pedal to drive any bubbles toward 
> nipples, then bleed in order again, repeat until all air gone
> 
> if I had the car, I'd do something like that
> 
> any advice on how to suggest a pressure-based bleed to the mechanic? I 
> don't want to pay him for the work and then have to re-do it myself - 
> too much
other stuff going on
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Rolf in MA
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> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
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