[Vwdiesel] alternator

[lbaird119 at aol.com]

I agree pretty heavily with Erik.  
  There's a catch with having the "sens" wire (except it's internal rather than a GM with a sens wire). going to the battery, is that you get correct voltage at the battery but you get drop to the rest of the car.  In theory anyway.
  Since you have 0 cable, I'd connect the alt at the starter, as well as my other car power.  That cable will carry all you need for starting as well as other electrics.  Worst need would be to be sure the lights and heater fan are off when cranking.
  After that, your stock alt SHOULD be able to keep up.  So long as you're not using a constant 40A of  power (heater, stereo and lights obviously shouldn't tax the stock alt since those are all stock).  Now if you've added a row of KC lights across the top and a couple 1,000 watt amps running your boom, boom subs, then...  ;-D
  Nothing like cold weather to make a weak battery show its colors!  Connect your test light between the battery and the disconnected cable and see if you get a glow (draw).  If not, then it's probably the battery or someone left the refrigerator light on that evening.  :-)
    Loren



-----Original Message-----
From: dieseltdi <dieseltdi at verizon.net>
To: Erik Lane <eriklane at gmail.com>
Cc: vw fans <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Mon, Nov 25, 2013 8:56 pm
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] alternator


I used 0 gauge to run to the trunk so other than going to welding cable.  James 
ansen has suggested a 6 gauge or so wire from the Alt directly back to the 
attery bypassing the starter to give the alt a direct line to “feel” the  
oltage from the battery rather than the voltage drop from the long cable.  That 
ill be a cheap fix to see if it works before I replace the alt.  Hayden
On Nov 25, 2013, at 10:30 PM, Erik Lane <eriklane at gmail.com> wrote:
> If the alternator was doing fine before you put the battery in the trunk, and 
othing else has changed, then getting a higher current output alternator won't 
eally help. What you might need is a slightly higher voltage out of the 
lternator to make up for the voltage drop in the long wires going to the 
attery. 
 
 But really, that still shouldn't be much of an issue for charging. Where 
ou're really hurting is the much higher (compared to charging) starting current 
nd voltage drop in the long wires. So to make up for the long wires you would 
eed to get fatter wires to counteract the additional length.
 
 
 
 
 On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 6:27 PM, <dieseltdi at verizon.net> wrote:
 Went outside this morning to start the Jetta in the cold and drizzle only to 
ind a dead battery,  I am thinking that I have a “leak” somewhere in the system 
ut I am going to take the battery out and get it checked.  All this got me 
hinking about my alternator.  Since I have relocated my battery into the trunk, 
 am thinking of upgrading my alternator.  I think the stock one on the car is a 
0 amp.  Anyone know what year alt would put out 90-100 amps but still fit the 
K1 diesel brackets?  Although I have made a few adaptions to the brackets, I am 
hinking that even a later (MK2) alt would fit.  Any suggestions?  Hayden






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