[Vwdiesel] alternator

[Bryan Belman]

Hi, Pretty sure the MK2 90amp alt. will not fit in the MK1 bracket for 60amp alt.
I am pretty sure the bolt holes are the same if you can find a MK2 alt. bracket to the block.
 
 

Bryan Belman, Pt. Pleasant, NJ
04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD BEW, 100hp, 5sp -- running :<)
04 Golf TDI PD BEW, 100hp, 5sp Tiptronic Auto -- running :<)
82 Diesel Westy 1.9NA 1Y -- running :<)
70 Type 1 Beetle -- Under Restoration forever:-)



On Tuesday, November 26, 2013 1:36 AM, James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net> wrote:
  
True enough,  but the deal is just to take care of the battery regardless of where it is.  You have to have 14.3v to really charge (or more) at the battery, or it's capacity eventually will dwindle away. The voltage drop to the rest of the car from the battery is moot, it's there whether or not you have the right voltage at the battery, but if you have correct battery voltage, it's all good, the car will still start if the battery is up and at full capacity. 
I had also suggested to install an adjustable voltage regulator to tune it so you get enough charging voltage at the battery if there is too much drop in the system.
Hayden, do you have a battery load tester you could put at your battery to check what the alternator is doing?  Would give a good indication of voltage drop with load, of say, 10-20a.
Oh, and btw, you are planning to check for current draw to the alternator when it's all turned off, right? One bad diode in the alt can kill an older battery overnight.
-j


Loren sez:
I agree pretty heavily with Erik.  
  There's a catch with having the "sens" wire (except it's internal rather than a GM with a sens wire). going to the battery, is that you get correct voltage at the battery but you get drop to the rest of the car.  In theory anyway.
  Since you have 0 cable, I'd connect the alt at the starter, as well as my other car power.  That cable will carry all you need for starting as well as other electrics.  Worst need would be to be sure the lights and heater fan are off when cranking.
  After that, your stock alt SHOULD be able to keep up.  So long as you're not using a constant 40A of  power (heater, stereo and lights obviously shouldn't tax the stock alt since those are all stock).  Now if you've added a row of KC lights across the top and a couple 1,000 watt amps running your boom, boom subs, then...  ;-D
  Nothing like cold weather to make a weak battery show its colors!  Connect your test light between the battery and the disconnected cable and see if you get a glow (draw).  If not, then it's probably the battery or someone left the refrigerator light on that evening.  :-)
    Loren



-----Original Message-----
From: dieseltdi <dieseltdi at verizon.net>
To: Erik Lane <eriklane at gmail.com>
Cc: vw fans <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Mon, Nov 25, 2013 8:56 pm
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] alternator


I used 0 gauge to run to the trunk so other than going to welding cable.  James ansen has suggested a 6 gauge or so wire from the Alt directly back to the attery bypassing the starter to give the alt a direct line to “feel” the oltage from the battery rather than the voltage drop from the long cable.  That ill be a cheap fix to see if it works before I replace the alt.  Hayden On Nov 25, 2013, at 10:30 PM, Erik Lane <eriklane at gmail.com> wrote:
> If the alternator was doing fine before you put the battery in the 
> trunk, and
othing else has changed, then getting a higher current output alternator won't eally help. What you might need is a slightly higher voltage out of the lternator to make up for the voltage drop in the long wires going to the attery. 

But really, that still shouldn't be much of an issue for charging. Where ou're really hurting is the much higher (compared to charging) starting current nd voltage drop in the long wires. So to make up for the long wires you would eed to get fatter wires to counteract the additional length.




On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 6:27 PM, <dieseltdi at verizon.net> wrote:
Went outside this morning to start the Jetta in the cold and drizzle only to ind a dead battery,  I am thinking that I have a “leak” somewhere in the system ut I am going to take the battery out and get it checked.  All this got me hinking about my alternator.  Since I have relocated my battery into the trunk,  am thinking of upgrading my alternator.  I think the stock one on the car is a
0 amp.  Anyone know what year alt would put out 90-100 amps but still fit the
K1 diesel brackets?  Although I have made a few adaptions to the brackets, I am hinking that even a later (MK2) alt would fit.  Any suggestions?  Hayden






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