[Vwdiesel] VE pump problem
Mark Shepherd
mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk
Thu Jan 29 19:51:13 PST 2015
Tis a bit of a mystery! The vanes are a very close fit to their carrier, and wont take much to bind.If you check out that test I created, you will avoid repeated rebuilds.
However the pump is easily stripped down. It needs to be off the car to get at the spindle carrying the govenor weights.
The only special tool required is the triangular box spanner the removes the pivots for the fuel sleeve lever.
I made one out of a half inch or was it 3/8" thick walled box spanner, that I hammered into shape.
Also a 5mm allen key, for most of the screws except the 4 pump head torx screws. Remove head as one piece.
Make sure that you grind the bevel off the torx to use the entire depth of the 2 shallower torx bolts. After head is slackened the tension on the insides are relaxed and
then those triangular bolts will be off tension, removable and replaceable. There are instructions on the internet.
Mark
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Message Received: Jan 30 2015, 02:17 AM
From: "sandy cameron"
To: "diesel"
Cc:
Subject: [Vwdiesel] VE pump problem
Well, I'm beat.
I've tried all the external fixes I can, without success. I swapped the
pressure control valve, same results.
It's the vanes.
I can't get it thru my head that the car has run perfectly for about
180,000 miles, and on the disaster day, did 30 miles with no problems at
all, then, parked nose up for and hour, lost its ability to pump. It
would not even have cooled off significantly.
I have run a brew of ATF, fuel system cleaner, and diesel thru it, let
it soak over a couple of days, and run it again, with no luck. The fuel
from the elevated 1 gal jug runs thru the pump and up the return line by
gravity until it reaches the level of the fluid in the jug, then stays
there. (the pump is not "plugged").
The pump body does not pressurize, so acceleration and top rpm is
limited by the lack of injection advance. I have tried full "throttle"
to try and fling the vanes out, but it tops out about 2800 / 3000 rpm
without doing anything..
I believe the pump rotor is driven by a woodruff key, but if something
had grenaded in there, the pump would be full of aluminum chips and not
functional. It runs perfectly at lower speeds.
I don't understand how it sucked fuel from the tank to drive, it brought
me home 30 miles as long as I didn't try to push it over 45-50, and
avoided hills. The tank was full, gravity assist, I guess.
It's damn cold here, and I hate to burn all my firewood heating the
shop. I think I have an electric in-line pump somewhere here, I might
rig that, for local driving, and perhaps sometime it will kick in, leap
forward, and heal itself.
Someone explain to me how the vanes in a working pump suddenly stick
without warning, and stick so tight it won't pump at all? "Is a puzzelment".
For now, I'll just drive my son's A2 with the short legged "Eco" tranny,
(What a pig!) and wait for warmer weather to change the pump.
Sandy,
VE3AAC.
Stittsville (near Ottawa)
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