Re: Audi Steering Oil

[GREG GRANVILLE <JSB@ecl.psu.edu>]

>I like to ask people out there whether the steering oil uses a special oil.
>Recently I used Prestone steering oil.  But after awhile I noticed that my
>pressure accumulator was leaking.  I don't know whether this has something 
>to do with the Audi oil having a higher viscosity or that the accumulator
>(or its O-rings) are out.  Does someone out there ever tried using a generic
>steering oil without any side effects?

I would advise that you drain the hydralic system as soon as possible and
refill it with the proper MINERAL-based oil. I made the exact same mistake
that you are making. I figured that power-steering oil is power-steering
oil. I used Prestone and several other generic power-steering oils for
about a year. I noticed that I had to add fluid more and more often,
and the spot in my driveway kept getting bigger. Eventually, the oil
poured out almost as fast as I could put it in. I knew I had to do
something at this point. I was told that the cheap petroleum based
oils that I had been using had almost certainly destroyed the seals
in my steering rack. As it turns out, the cheap oil HAD turned the
seals in my steering rack into silly-putty. I was forced to price a
new steering rack... and found prices ranging from $375 to $800.
I ended up getting a used rack (tested) from Shokan for $225 (after
core exchange). I bought some of the proper MINERAL based oil and
refilled the system. It was a major job changing the rack myself,
but I saved myself a ton of money and it hasn't leaked a drop
since. The MINERAL based hydralic oil is available at many foriegn-
car parts stores. I bought some german brand of oil for about $13
a quart. The stuff that the Audi dealer wanted to sell me was going
for just under $20 a quart.

>On another note, my Audi 5000S ('85) seem to drag through when I am going 
>around 60 mph.  The transmisssion seemed to word pretty hard.  Someone 

Make sure the ATF level is full. Check it with the engine running and
the shifter in P or N.

>had adjusted the throttle linkage to reduce my rough idle when cold starting.
>I think the cold start sensor is out or the warm-up valve thermoswitch is goodbye.  Is this type of car know to blow these type of components?


Those two items are a good possibility, but here is another thing you
might want to check...
If you're having problems with a slow or rough idle until the engine warms
up, there is a very good chance that you idle-stabilizer relay (computer)
is fried. I had this problem also. The relay is located in the rack
above the drivers left foot. It's the largest "relay" there. I believe
they go for about $180 new. The quickest way to test it involves simply
unplugging it right after starting a cold engine. If the idle speed
doesn't change, the relay is probably bad.

I hope some of this is helpful... Good Luck.

Greg Granville
jsb@ecl.psu.edu