Re: Upgrading everything else

[edudley@mailbox.syr.edu]

Ti:
>>I have been very happy with Repco Metalmasters on my Audi 4000 (which
>>has been modified to use the 10.1" front brakes from the 16V Scirocco
>>and rear disc brakes from a GTI).  Wonderful fade-free, squeal-free,
>>minimum-dust performance.
Karl:
>Oooh, here's one I can do.  I just got my '86 4000S Quattro back from the
>shop.  It needs brakes all around.  That will cost me over $400 just for
>parts.  What does it take to modify the 4000Q to use the 16V Scirocco's
>front brakes?  How large are the GTI's rear rotors?  What size rotors
>are stock on the 4000 Quattro?

The 84-87 4000q has 256mm (10.079") by 20mm (0.787) vented front rotors, 
which happen to be the same as the 75 or so thru 78 100ls, and I suspect 
they're the same as the four bolt 108mm pattern early 5000.  

Rears are 245mm (9.646") by 10mm (0.394") non-vented.

Not a bad set up, hardly worth screwing with.  

I'd be leary of that $400 brake job, I'm looking at receipts for pads
at $35 each end.  They're easy to change, the only special tool you'd
need would be a thin 14mm open end wrench or some medium sized needle
nose Vice-Grips.  Also reseating the rear slave pistons can be a chore,
you need to screw it back down the parking brake post, but it takes
a large allen wrench and you should clean the boot groove and reseal
it with brake lube grease.

Unless you've ruined the rotors they should not need turning.  I like
to clean the ring of rust around the outer edge with a grinder, which
requires removing the caliper, oops, special tool again for the inverted
hex drive cap screws.  They can (and should always)  be replaced with 
normal hex head self locking cap screws.  Also I like to clean up the
caliper slides, which also requires removing the calipers/rotors.

Hopefully you've been flushing the fluid yearly and the calipers should
be fine.  Learing this lesson cost me a rebuild kit @$40/pair.  Getting
the first one back together took 6 hours, then in desperation I thought
by some slim chance the Bentley manual might tell how, looked it up,
and put the other together in seconds.

By the way, cobbed together a vacuum bleeder a few years ago, works
great:  Took a brake fluid bottle, stuck some thin clear tubing in
a hole in the bottom, and inserted the conical top in the hose of
the shop vac.  Takes about a half an hour to suck the furthest
brake line dry (after sucking out the resevoir), and the others 
take much less time.  Refilling takes much less time.  Don't even
have to screw with the porportioning valve.

Cheers,

   Eliot

Eliot W. Dudley                       
3388 State Rt 370  
Cato, New York  13033
315 626 2878
edudley@mailbox.syr.edu