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Re: Repco Metal Masters
>The replacement was very straightforward. If you are just replacing the
>pads, the front caliper does not need to come off. Simply remove the lower
>bolt, loosen the upper bolt, and swing half of the caliper "up". You may
>have to depress the pistons (two of them) to get the new pads in. Bentley
>also recommends replacing the bolts.
When replacing the rears, it was just as easy to take the calipers off, as I
had to do some banging to get the old pads out.
Does uneven pad wear on the same wheel (inside to outside) indicate a caliper
problem? The parking brake is also out of adjustment, so this may be a factor
as it seems to only "brake" the left side (same side as uneven wear).
>The rears are a little different. You must remove the caliper, and depress
>and turn the piston at the same time. I used some channel locks with tape
>on the teeth for this.
Yeah...I figured that one out. The Bentley manual shows a nice "hex key"
arrangement...yeah right. Two slots in the piston, too small for vice
grips/channel locks to fit into, and I was uncomfortable using the vice grips
to grab the piston from the side and turn it (didn't want to damage the seal).
So I used a large pair of tin-snips, or any scissors like tool which will fit
in there and be beefy enough to take the torque. Not pretty, but on a sunday
afternoon...it works! ;-)
>I don't recall if there were part numbers on the pads, but I chan check what
>was on the box this weekend. If you'd like, I'll post the part number on
>Monday.
I already got the Lucas/Girling pads (metallics) and figure I'll just use
them. $34/pair vs. $69/pair at the dealer. Not a big lucas fan, as I was
able to find Beck Arnley organics for the rear. Oh well, we'll give it a
shot.
Chris
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| Chris Ice, CMfgT | \`o_O' | Allen-Bradley Co. | are mine and don't
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