RE: Tightning the belt, its all in the timming.

[David Bokaie <David_Bokaie@NeTpower.com>]

 -
> 3) Bentley suggests using a couple of special tools.  One to lock the 
crank
> against the engine mount, and the other is a "breaker bar" with which they
> give torque specs.  Do I really need them?  Can I lock the engine in gear
> with someone standing on the brakes? Would a pry bar in the ring gear 
work?
> How about the breaker bar?  Can I just use a really big torque wrench when
> tightening?

I have used a screw drive to lock the ring gear against bell housing. 
 Pretty
scary when you are dealing with > 250 ft-lb torques.  Next time I will try 
to
buy the locking tool.  I used a water pipe as my breaker bar.  Bought a 4 ft
water pipe at sufficient diameter to go over my sears 1/2 rachet.  It did
the trick even though the rachet was damaged which I replaced at
Sears for free.  The problem is re-torque after the work is done.  The 
regular
cheapy torque wrench goes to 100-150.  I broke mine with the same breaker
bar before using the sears rachet.  I used to some basic physics to convince
my self that I have applied the correct amount of torque.  I have put over 
40K
miles on the car since and so far so good.  Note that you ideally would need 

an "impact" socket to undo the crankshaft bolt.  Alternatively buy something
from sears that you can replace if it breaks.  For the next time I would 
look
into renting a good torque wrench.

I moved the water pump (to adjust the  tension) enough to break the seal and
tighten everything without replacing the gasket.  No leak occurred 
afterwards.

Good luck, hope your valves are not bent.  BTW my car was 89, 90.


David