Re: Timing belt replacement

[Nick Craft <ncc@scr.siemens.com>]

I also just did this job on my '88 5000CSTQ Wagon.
The crank locking tool can be mail-ordered from
Zelinda Tools for about $60. I believe they have
an 800 number. While I was at it, I changed the water
pump & idler pulley thing at the same time (preemptive maintenance).
I also changed the crank seal but this involved yanking the
oil pump, oil pan & front tranny mount which took forever
so I wouldn't bother unless the seal is leaking. Apparently
there's a tool for getting the seal out without removing the
oil pump, but I can't imagine how it works.

As far as torquing the big bolt is concerned, the special
bar with 27mm socket appears to be designed to extend a 
standard torque wrench AT THE SOCKET END OF THE TORQUE WRENCH.
therefore it extends the range of the torque wrench. for
example if the extension bar is the same length as the TW, a
reading of 100ftlb will be applying an actual torque of 200ftlb.

I didn't bother with this, I used simple physics to prove that
190lbs of me, bouncing slightly on the end of an 18inch breaker
bar was ample torque (260ftlb is spec I think).
I used the blue loctite to lock the threads.

Furthermore, getting the bolt off was fun - I had a 1/2" sears
breaker bar with a 27mm socket on it, I stood on the thing - nothing,
bounced a little - nothing, bounced harder & blammo, the 1/2" square
end on the bb sheared. Took it down to sears & applied its value towards
a 3/4" breaker bar & socket. That did the job, no problem.

Overall, not a bad job to do at home for a learner like me. Just be 
prepared to apply a little brainpower here, and a little muscle there,
and don't mix them up!

Nick.