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Re: Quattro Digest V2 #12




I think an audi is just broken in with 120k on it especially when all the 
service records are available

 On Mon, 6 Mar 1995 
quattro-digest-owner@coimbra.ans.net wrote:

> Quattro Digest              Monday, 6 March 1995        Volume 02 : Number 012
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	'86 4Kq milage advice needed
> 	[none]
> 	[none]
> 	Seat heater light
> 	[none]
> 	[none]
> 	Re: Cosmoline
> 	Weird hot start problem with 1990 Coupe Quattro
> 	Re: License Plates
> 	Re: Ur-boost Emperical evidence
> 	[none]
> 	where are the posts ?
> 	Server was dead
> 	Seems like a simple task but....
> 	Re: How much is a used S4 turbo worth?
> 	Transmission problem?
> 	RE: Ur-boost Emperical evidence
> 	A Coupla Oil Problems
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the quattro
> or quattro-digest mailing lists.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> From: Todd Paciorek <ir000185@interramp.com>
> Date: Fri,  3 Mar 95 06:36:45 PST
> Subject: '86 4Kq milage advice needed
> 
> Hi-
> 
>  I bought an '87 Maserati Biturbo last year as a "good" car and as a driver I grabbed 
> an'86 4000s. Much to my dismay I found I liked driving the Audi better!
> 
> My question is this: I have 104k miles on the 4Ks, I would trust the thing to go 
> anywhere. Still very solid and (mostly) reliable. I am looking for a 4000csq. I found 
> one locally for $3900asking. Supposed to be very clean, loaded, etc. Bad part is - 
> 120k miles. 
> 
> The car was supposed to have been properly maintained at the local Audi dealer since 
> new. Should I be scared off by the miles or should I look at the car?
> 
> Also - I know the problems with the 4k series in general, what should I look for in 
> the quattro?
> 
> TIA,
> Todd
> 
> Also: '87 Maserati is for sale - Nice car - someone want it? I'm in Ohio....
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: dupina@rosnet.strose.edu (Angela E. Dupin)
> Date: Sat, 4 Mar 95 21:10:23 EST
> Subject: [none]
> 
> 	hope this is the correct address; coimbra doesn't seem to work.
> 
> 	can anyone tell me where the high pressure hose is connected on an
> '86 5kq steering rack, front or back?
> 
> 	ciao,
> 
> 	Phil
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: dupina@rosnet.strose.edu (Angela E. Dupin)
> Date: Sat, 4 Mar 95 21:08:58 EST
> Subject: [none]
> 
> 	test message, can't send to coimbra address.
> 	phil
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: "Bob D'Amato" <Bob.Damato@starfleet.itc.snetlink.com>
> Date: Sat, 4 Mar 1995 09:26:24 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Seat heater light
> 
> Hi all.
>   Just an updated on a message posted here about changing the light bulb 
> in the switch for the seat heater. I followed the directions, and bought 
> the right bulbs from radio shack. Everything went together really easily.
> 
> Someone had asked about putting in an LED instead of the incandesant 
> bulb. I tried this, but there wasnt a lot of room in there. If It were 
> the LED alone, it wouldnt have been a problem, but there is no room to 
> add the 680 ohm dropping resistor anywhere! So I stuck with the bulb.
> 
> Many thanks to the original poster. What does anyone know about the light 
> in the sunroof switch? It flickers all the time and drives me nuts at 
> night!!!  Is it the same procedure? I did find out that the leads are 
> soldered on!
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: dupina@rosnet.strose.edu (Angela E. Dupin)
> Date: Sun, 5 Mar 95 10:52:21 EST
> Subject: [none]
> 
> subscribe
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: William Murin <murinw@cs.uwp.edu>
> Date: Sat, 4 Mar 1995 23:04:26 -0600 (CST)
> Subject: [none]
> 
> Haven't seen anything on the quattro net for almost 2 days.  Is it 
> because people are forgetting to cc: The List si ce the list moved to a 
> new machine on 2/27, or is this lack of new postings unique to mm?  
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: "Bob D'Amato" <Bob.Damato@starfleet.itc.snetlink.com>
> Date: Fri, 3 Mar 1995 13:06:10 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: Cosmoline
> 
> On Fri, 3 Mar 1995 Bubmeister@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > goes to work and voila - it's gone.  We have had VERY good success with
> > Lift-Off in the engine compartment, although - unfortunately, with thoroughly
> > cooked on cosmoline (say on the engine block) nothing short of sand blasting
> > will take it off.  The thick layer you usually find on the shock towers
> > usually comes off with a bit more elbow grease.  If you can't find this
> > product, let me know and I'll go out to the garage and get the company name.
> > 
> > Kelly
> > 
> Gee, thats terrific. THanks a million, I will look for it today by 
> calling it around. Do you by chance know if its made by any large company 
> like 3m, or dupont etc? That would help my search efforts.
> I'll let you know how I do. THanks again.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: jallred@spdg.COM (John Allred)
> Date: Sat, 4 Mar 1995 16:53:56 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: Weird hot start problem with 1990 Coupe Quattro
> 
> Greetings all:
> 
> I have an intermittent problem with my Coupe Q, which is driving me
> and my repair shop bananas.  Me, because I'm dead in the water for
> twenty minutes or so until the car starts again; the repair shop,
> because they can't reproduce the problem.  The car has been absolutely
> flawless up to this point.
> 
> The car has difficulty starting _sometimes_ while hot.  Cold start are
> always fine.  Some hot starts are ok; some require attempts to start
> for about twenty minutes before the engine catches. The starter and
> battery are fine.  The longer the car is driven, the better the chance
> of starting difficulties.  This problem cannot be reproduced by idling
> the car -- the repair shop did this for hours with no problems.
> 
> I believe that I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking on for a second
> when the key is turned (correct, per the Bentley manual); sometimes I
> can hear a faint whine from the rear of the car, which I assume to be
> the fuel pump.
> 
> My guesses as to why I'm having problems starting this car:
> 
> 1.  the )$(#*&@ oxygenated gas -- it has been warmer in Seattle since
> the problem first reared its ugly head.  The oxy gas should have gone
> away on March 1st; so I should be able to test this theory pretty
> quick.
> 
> 2.  The fuel pump is intermittently dying.  It obviously doesn't work
> as hard while idling than when it's running at freeway speeds.
> 
> 3.  Some sort of vapor lock, cause unknown.
> 
> I'd love to hear any other theories.  Answers would be even better.  :-)
> - -- 
> John Allred (jallred@spdg.com)
> Stratos Product Development Group, Seattle, WA
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: jdouglas@mitre.org (jason douglas)
> Date: Fri, 3 Mar 95 10:46:01 EST
> Subject: Re: License Plates
> 
> three possibly/probably apocryphal stories from europe where photo radar has
> been in
> use for a while:
> 
> 1) In germany you can contest the ticket if the driver cannot be identified
> in the photo.  The 
> polizei were not amused by several radar photos of they got of the  same car
> with a driver wearing
> a mask!
> 
> 2 a poloitician was not amused by the photo (delivered to his home)r of his
> mistress driving his car!
> 
> 3. An naval aviator who shall remain nameless reportedly foiled photo radar
> in spain by
> mounting a slave flash next to his front license plate.  when it sensed the
> flash from the photo
> radar, it flashed back, overexposing that region of the photo.
> 
> well, at least they're fun stories....
> - ------------------------------------------------------
> Jason Douglas
> MTS Dept G057                        
> MITRE Corporation                 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Alan Cordeiro <cordeiro@avlna.com>
> Date: Fri, 3 Mar 95 13:06:13 EST
> Subject: Re: Ur-boost Emperical evidence
> 
> > 
> > 
> >    Ok, so it was a little while ago when this boost discussion came to an 
> > end, but I needed time to install a guage and run around at full boost 
> 
> stuff deeleted
> 
> > Ur's back in the beginning gave US boost specs at 12 psi. I Think perhaps 
> > they were simply quoting the euro figure for the 200hp engines. Did the 
> > US and Euro cars use the same computers? I would assume not as they should 
> > have been programmed to take advantage of the higher octane fuels 
> > available in europe. 
> 
> > Thanks
> > Rod Wiggins 
> > 
> 
> When I got my 5kTQ the boost guage ran 1.3 bar ( 0.3 boost ). Putting
> in a few spacer washers upped it to 1.4, and puting in a stronger spring
> upped it to where the fuel injectors cut off the fuel supply ( 1.5 bar )
> 
> ( Using the original spring with a experimental modification allowed me
> a temporary 1.8 bar, but there was a "dead spot" in the middle
> at 1.3 bar before a SURGE of power came on again. )
> 
> > Keith Anderson claims that each psi is worth 14hp. That sounds somewhat 
> > high to me. Any input would be appreciated.
> > 
> 
> Now, using a seat of the pants calculation, .3 bar = 4.5 psi which is
> what we run in the USA nad get 160-165 HP. If 12 psi gives 200 HP,
> then;
> 
> ( 12 - 4.5 ) psi  => 30 to 35 extra HP
> 
> i.e. 1 psi => 4 HP
> 
> I suspect Scott (PDQSHIP ) may have some numbers to share here, or
> Bob Meyers, who I beleive is running over 2.0 bar ( 1.0 bar boost )
> 
> The ultimate authority on psi => HP would probably be Ned Ritchie.
> 
> 
> 
> Alan Cordeiro
>  
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: smarinel@Flint.Mines.Colorado.edu (Steve Marinello)
> Date: Fri, 3 Mar 1995 14:48:13 -0700
> Subject: [none]
> 
> What gives?  Haven't received anything from quattro all day (Friday).
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: murari@umiacs.UMD.EDU (Murari Srinivasan)
> Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 10:46:05 -0500
> Subject: where are the posts ?
> 
> > 
> > Haven't seen anything on the quattro net for almost 2 days. 
> 
> Same here !
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Dan Simoes <dans@ans.net>
> Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 10:47:36 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Server was dead
> 
> Sorry for the absence of messages.  We had a death in the family,
> so I was out on Friday and didn't notice the machine was dead
> until late last night.  I should have it ironed out this week
> (I hope!).
> 
> | Dan |
> - -- 
> Dan Simoes			          dans@ans.net
> ANS CO+RE Systems, Inc.		         (914) 789-5378
> 100 Clearbrook Road  			Elmsford, NY 10523
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Tak Cheung <tcheung@gandalf.rutgers.edu>
> Date: Sat, 4 Mar 1995 23:24:20 -0500
> Subject: Seems like a simple task but....
> 
> I'm trying to remove the trim plastic over the 4-speed auto gear shifter on
> my '91 100 but I don't know how.  Do I just yank at the plastic cover until
> it comes off or is there something more to it ??  I'm trying to replace some
> burnt out lights in the gear selector housing.  If there are small latches
> on the trim plate where are they located so I won't damage the plactic cover.
> 
> The old 3-speed auto is different, the cover comes off easily when pulled on.
> 
> Guess Audi improves on the fit and finish but I have a harder time to take 
> things off :)...
> 
> A similar question is how do I remove the vent louvres for the rear passenger
> The movable louvres is damaged and I would like to know how to remove the
> thing first before I look for a new (used?) one.  
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: glen.powell@smc.com
> Date: 03 Mar 1995 09:25:13 -0500
> Subject: Re: How much is a used S4 turbo worth?
> 
>   I bought my S4 turbo from Ned Ritchie at IA. It had some small dyno time
>   on it. $1,300 US. Ouch.
> 
>   -glen
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: AlanPage@ix.netcom.com (Alan Page)
> Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 07:55:44 -0800
> Subject: Transmission problem?
> 
> I may have a transmission problem with my 1990 80Q. This weekend
> I heard what I thought was a slipping belt noise after a 20 mile
> trip around town. But after opening the hood, I noticed the noise
> was definitely coming from behind the engine. 
> 
> I also have fresh oil on some of the forward facing surfaces of
> the bell housing (engine oil?). There is also oil on the driver's
> side drive shaft. It looks older (much more dirt in it), but there's
> a good deal on the drive flange and the rubber boot.
> 
> During the last few weeks, downshifting rapidly caused a slight
> grind of the gears. I assumed that I needed to adjust the clutch
> travel. If I downshifted normally, the grinding almost never occured.
> 
> Does anyone know where the gear oil fill plug is the 01A
> transmission. I'm going to get under the car this week and take a
> look around. Any thing in particular that I should look for?
> 
> Any ideas would be _very_ appreciated!
> 
> Alan Page
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Dave Lawson <dlawson@ball.com>
> Date: Mon, 06 Mar 95 08:54:00 mst
> Subject: RE: Ur-boost Emperical evidence
> 
> Rod,
> 
> > Or do you
> >think boost was really this low on new US cars?
> 
>  As I have mentioned previously, with a stock 83 TQC computer, I can run 
> around 13.5 psi of boost at 5000 ft elevation. At 600ft elevation, I had to 
> back off the boost to around 10 psi to stop the computer cut-out. Don't 
> forget that a large input into this area is the intake air temp.
> 
> >Does anyone know what
> >level of boost was run on the European Ur's?   All the articles on the
> >Ur's back in the beginning gave US boost specs at 12 psi. I Think perhaps
> >they were simply quoting the euro figure for the 200hp engines.
> 
> The info I have shows the euro cars having a max boost pressure of 12.3 psi. 
> The US cars show this same level. The TQC maintainance and adjustments 
> manual show the boost curve with a max boost of 0.9 bar so, the 12.3 psi 
> sounds reasonable.
> 
> >Did the
> >US and Euro cars use the same computers? I would assume not as they should
> >have been programmed to take advantage of the higher octane fuels
> >available in europe.
> 
> I don't think they used the same computers. Ned Ritchey told me that a US 
> computer will not work in a euro car and the euro cmputer will not work in a 
> US car. I have also been told that the very early euro TQCs ran open loop 
> with no O2 sensor on the car, so the fuel system was setup to dump max fuel, 
> all the time. I have seen some Abt tuned cars setup like this. They had 
> removed the O2 sensor, the fuel distributor frequency valve, and the cat 
> converter. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust at idle.
> 
> Some other differences between the euro TQCs and the US cars, is the 
> camshaft has a different profile. The valve timing looks like
> 
> Engine Code                       WR(euro)      WX(US)
> Inlet opens ATDC                 3                        6
> Inlet closes ABDC               47                      44
> Exhaust opens BBDC        43                      40
> Exhaust closes BTDC         7                      -10
> 
> Anyone know the part number of the euro WR engine camshaft?
> 
> And from a TQC owner who has had both the US and euro engines apart is the 
> head is different. He said the euro head had more material in the combustion 
> chamber which increases the compression ratio and that the euro head had 
> smoother and larger ports, that some time is taken with the euro head and it 
> appears to be tuned.
> 
>  -
> Dave Lawson dlawson@ball.com
> 86 coupe GT
> 83 TQC 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: Andrew Duane USG/PE <duane@zk3.dec.com>
> Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 11:12:23 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: A Coupla Oil Problems
> 
> Recently, my '89 100Q has developed three (unrelated) little
> problems relating to the oil system.
> 
> 1) Low pressure.  With a warm engine, idle oil pressure is right:
> 2 bar. But at cruising speed, it only goes up to about 2.5-3 bar,
> instead of the usual 4+ bar. The level and temperature are fine.
> Could this be just the "winter" 10W30 oil not doing too well now
> that spring is here? Or can oil pumps get weak at high speed?
> 
> 2) Water on cap.  Last oil change I noticed a small swirl of the
> white oil/water mix on my oil cap. No problems in the engine.
> Could this be related to #1?
> 
> 3) Leaky plug.  I have a drain valve (which is great), but it
> weeps around the threads. I'm pretty sure the threads on the
> oil pan were stripped by a grease monkey 2 years ago. What kind
> of gasket or epoxy material could I use to seal this up? Since
> it is a valve, I won't need to remove it ever again. Alternatively,
> I may need to replace the pan gasket too. Should I just get a new
> pan with the gasket?
> 
> - -- 
> 
> Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7)			duane@zk3.dec.com
> Digital Equipment Corporation		(603)-881-1294
> 110 Spit Brook Road			http://www.zk3.dec.com/~duane
> M/S ZKO3-3/U14
> Nashua, NH    03062-2698
> 
> Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's pretty slippery.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Quattro Digest V2 #12
> ****************************
> 
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