Re: High Idle problems

[rdh@sli.com (Robert D. Houk)]

   > P.S.	Since I guess the original query was about high idle speed (OK
   > 	cold, high warm, which is kinda the opposite of the usual problem
   > 	where it idles OK warm and not cold!), I will hypothesize. Now...if
   >                   this gizmo were not working, then the only
   > 	way to get a cold idle that doesn't stall out would be to crank
   > 	up the idle air adjust enough that a cold engine keeps running;
   > 	by the time the engine was "hot", you would have gained several
   > 	(or many) hundred rpm over the "cold" idle.

   Since I'm the only one who ever works on the car (main problem, I'm sure) I
   know that the Auxiliary Air valve hasn't been manually adjusted.  Is it
   possible that, suppossing my (hers, whatever) car - an '84 5kS 2.2L 5spd - has
   one of these gizmos, that this thing is stuck OPEN?  How would one test this to
   see if it works (where is it?)  I have tried absolutely everything else
   ...
   really has me stuck...

Heh heh heh . . . (I enjoy seeing others suffer; misery likes company, ya
know...)

Anyways, "OPEN" is more or less what I meant; in either event you have to
have "extra" air when cold, which manifests itself as "too much" air when
warmed up; the difference between "too much" and "just right" is also
fairly small . . . 

On my '83 UrQ, the Aux Air valve is located at the rear of the engine,
just to the right (passenger) side of the head, adjacent to the A/C air
valve (the widget that kicks up the "idle" when the A/C compressor en-
gages). Both feed off of a common air bleed/bypass hose that runs to
the front of the air intake manifold, just before ("in front of", mecha-
nically speaking) the throttle plate.

Easy way to test - just disconnect the electrical connector (two wires):
you should see cold idle of 1200-950, gradually warming up to 950 (my car
varies, depending on ambient temperature, cold it may run anywhere from
800-900 on to about 1200, with lower rpms if starting from colder temps);
disconnected, you should see the cold idle (of whatever speed it starts at)
ramping up constantly until the engine is hot, and I would guess it would
peak out at 2000rpm hot. Then if you hook up the connector, it should drop
(over about a minute) to proper idle speed.

With an ohmmeter (e.g., the proverbial 7678 of other thread's fame), you
should see continuity between the two terminals; with an ammeter, you
should measure about .25A (and about .75A on the fuel pressure regulator
warm up coil, for about an amp total) current draw on the Aux Air circuit.
The wiring loom should read +12V whenever the ignition is on (it may or
may not read +12 when in START position...I don't remember that detail,
but I think it's driven off the same circuit as the ignition/ECU, so it
should "always" be +12 volts)

There is a mechanical adjust on the Aux Air flap -- there's a little bitty
hex head near the base; loosen and move/slide it "out" (away from the tower)
to open the flap more (more cold idle air), move it into/towards the tower
to lessen the air. (The "tower" is the column/whatever that sticks up, and
has the electrical connector on "top"; maybe 1.5 - 2 inches height?) The
adjust hex head is tiny and obviously not a mechanical mounting bolt.

With all that, you should be able to pretty conclusively determine the
state of the Aux Air Valve.

Good (shicker) luck!

					-RDH

P.S.	It just occured to me that you can also just disconnect AND BLOCK
	the air hose leading into the manifold from the Aux Air Valve...
	don't forget to block *both* directions, or you'll just end up
	"shorting" the air metering and have no idle whatsoever!