Help my 5KTQ

[Scott=John=Mockry%Mktg%TM@banyan.bv.tek.com]

Mike, 

The radiator fan problem is either: the resistor pack (2nd stage gone kaput),  the  radiator temp
fan switch  mounted in the lower left end of the radiator, or the 2nd stage relay in the fuse box
near the windshield  under the hood. Sometimes the 2nd stage relay points will weld themselves 
together and kill the battery. The radiator temp switch is a three wire connection and if you unplug 
the connector at the temp switch and short together the "correct"  terminals  (with Key On) you 
should be able to isolate the problem. Check the wiring diagram before you begin.  The resistor pack 
is bolted to the frame rail in front of the radiator  under the plastic cover. 

The window problem is a pain, Halsey Import Parts in Portland,OR  can order a replacement regulator
with motor for around $130. I used one of these aftermarket regulators and it does the job. IPC in
Fresno does have replacement regulators without the motors and I think rebuilt units as well.

The Starting/Running problem you described was already described correctly  by Robert and is 
caused by vapor lock/fuel perculation in the injector lines after the car is warmed up and is then 
shut off for 10-15 min. The winter oxygenated fuel makes the problem worse. I have been tempted to 
change the injector cooler fan temp switch (mounted on the rear part of the valve cover) to a lower 
turn on temp variety to get this fan to come on more often.
 
I think the Bently manual lists a procedure to add on a temp switch and relay to help reduce under the 
hood temps for earlier cars. Some of this problem is just related to the CIS fuel injection lines being
metal and then draped over the hot engine. Leaking/dripping  fuel injectors will also make the problem
worse.

At the Portland, OR Quattro Club driving school it was funny to listen to all the Audi cars restart 
after sitting there for 10-15 min after a hard run. They ALL would stumble/falter/miss after being
started due to this above mentioned problem. Ned Ritchie from IA confirmed this diagnoses as well.
Scott M.

Mike said:

>this car, but it is developing problems faster than I can fix them 
>(financially speaking).  I am hoping to save some money by fixing 
>what I can.

>1)  Only Stage Three of the cooling fan is working.  So, when I sit 
>in city traffic, it sounds like a DC-10 is landing in front of me.  A 
>friends suggests that the resistor pack (?) needs to be replaced.
>Does this sound like a likely solution?  Where is it located, and is 
>it possible for me to fix?

>2)  Driver window doesn't work anymore.  I dissassembled the door, 
>and noted that the regulator needs replacing.  Any secrets to this, 
>or could a simpleton like myself do it?

THE BIGGIE:

>Solve this problem, and receive the "Mr. Fix It!" award:

>3)  Start car.  Works fine, idling at 800 RPM.  Drive any distance.  
>Stop car.  Go shopping.  Get in car.  Start car.  Car no longer idles 
>when you come to a stop.  Drive 3 footed.  Car accidentally stalls.  
>Car will not start.  Just turns over.  Sit embarrasedly in 
>intersection for no less than 1 minute. (seems like 1 hour)  Start 
>car.  Will start.  Won't idle still.

Text deleted
B)  Release me from this bondage.

- Mike