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re: Quattro Digest V2 #517
I'm sorry, but I will be out of the office until Friday, October 27. If you
have a DSP applications question, please forward your comments to
dsp_applications@analog.com. Thank You -Noam Levine
-------------
Original Text
>From quattro-digest-owner@coimbra.ans.net, on 10/23/95 6:20 PM:
To: <quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net>
Quattro Digest Monday, 23 October 1995 Volume 02 : Number 517
In this issue:
Yikes! Broken ring on my 1990 100
Coolant recommendations
Re: Coolant recommendations
5ktq: Can't get outter CV joint off
Re: Coolant recommendations
RS2
Re: Red Hot Turbos (Wrap the exhaust)
Re: 5ktq: Can't get outter CV joint off
Re: The Rapp on exhaust
re: Coolant recommendations
Re: 4kqs Rear Suspension response
Re: Coolant recommendations
Re: The Rapp on exhaust
Re: 5ktq: Can't get outter CV joint off
Re: AUDI & Mercedes
Re: The Rapp on exhaust
RE: Consumer reports
Re: The Rapp on exhaust
Re: RS2
Turbo 5 Cam Keys?
Re: Spark Plug Wires
[none]
Re: 5k bad vibrations, conclusion
A/C programmer confusion?
Power lock woes on '88 5kCST...
BLAUfergnugem Muffler, not fit?
Re: The Rapp on exhaust
Re: Turbo 5 Cam Keys?
Re: A/C programmer confusion?
See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the quattro
or quattro-digest mailing lists.
To submit a message to the quattro list, mail to quattro@coimbra.ans.net.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jeff Brown <Jeff_Brown.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 23 Oct 95 10:28:24 EDT
Subject: Yikes! Broken ring on my 1990 100
My Audi 100 has been running rather well for the 2 1/2 years I have owned it
and I have been religious in maintaining it. It started to run poorly recently
- - rough idle, rough run, losing oil (3 qtsin 2 weeks). I brought it in, the
guy
reported back that it was a broken ring. Bummer! only 85k on the car.
Options are to fix it, put in a new engine or dump the car.
Any thoughts? Is it worth the money fix it? If I sell, should I fix first then
sell? or sell now disclosing the problem? If I sell now, how would I do it?
jeff
------------------------------
From: rmyers@olie.wvitcoe.wvnet.edu (Robert Myers)
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:49:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Coolant recommendations
A group question:
Are there acceptable alternatives to Audi's obscenely expensive coolant for
use in an Audi? Would use of just about any coolant be OK as long as it
is phosphate free?
- --
Bob
_____________________________________________________________
| Robert L. (Bob) Myers <rmyers@olie.wvitcoe.wvnet.edu> |
| (304) 442-3358 Office (304) 574-2372 Home |
| Obligatory references for Sleddog and Quattro lists: |
| My Siberian Huskies like to ride in my '89 200 TQ. |
|____________________________________________________________|
------------------------------
From: Dan Simoes <dans@ans.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:56:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Coolant recommendations
> Are there acceptable alternatives to Audi's obscenely expensive coolant for
> use in an Audi? Would use of just about any coolant be OK as long as it
> is phosphate free?
Big time FAQ here. Yes, there are others. Prestone and Sierra
and perhaps others now make phosphate-free formulas that only cost
a buck or two more. Still less than half the price of the Autobahn
stuff.
| Dan |
- --
Dan Simoes dans@ans.net
ANS http://coimbra.ans.net/dans.html
100 Clearbrook Road (914) 789-5378 (voice)
Elmsford, NY 10523 (914) 789-5310 (fax)
------------------------------
From: stevanov@orion.crd.ge.com (Ljubisa D. Stevanovic)
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 11:01:22 EDT
Subject: 5ktq: Can't get outter CV joint off
This weekend I set out to replace both front outter CV boots on my newly
acquired '88 5ktq. BTW, both boots were ripped by chains used to tie down
the car onboard truck by idiots who transported the car for me.
Following Bentley, Net Wisdom and Hanes instructions I removed both front
halfshafts without any problems. Removed remaining shreds of both CV boots
(that's how bad they ripped them up), cleaned remaining grease and tried
to remove the outter joint by using a flimsy pair of circlip pliers and
a small plastic hammer (Bentley says to spread the circlip and LIGHTLY tap
on outter CV joint hub with a soft drift). How optimistic! Three hours latter,
I decided it was time for a trip to Sears. Bought a bigger pair of circlips;
it became much easier to hold the circlip open, but after another hour of
tapping and swearing, the joint still wouldn't budge.
Time to use a bigger hammer, I said to myself. Called my neighbour to help
me hold the circlip open, found a small wood block and wedged it against the
joint hub, got my old 3lb hammer... It still wouldn't budge!
(BTW, I was equally unsuccessfull with the other outter CV joint.)
I dont' think it's the circlip that's causing the problem. I can get it to
spread completely in that little window/recess. The joint is simply stuck on
the halfshaft and it's going to take more force to get it off. Last night
I sprayed some WD40 around the circlip and left it soaking. I'll try to see
if it works when I get home, but I'm not holding my breth.
Has anybody else been through one of these and has a trick that works?
I think I pretty much ran out of ideas and am willing to try anything that
doesn't require special (read expensive) tools. Of course, there is that last
option; take it to a mechanic and watch him use REALLY BIG hammer. Ouch!
Thanks in advance,
Ljubisa Stevanovic (stevanov@crd.ge.com)
------------------------------
From: Michael Spiers <mikes@specnet.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 11:29:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant recommendations
> Are there acceptable alternatives to Audi's obscenely expensive coolant for
> use in an Audi? Would use of just about any coolant be OK as long as it
> is phosphate free?
Bob, I've been using NAPA stuff for many years in the '84, never any problems.
Just make sure the antifreeze states that it's compatible with aluminum
motors, but I think anything phosphate free will also be aluminum compatible.
- --
- -Mike
mikes@specnet.com
mks107@psuvm.psu.edu
87 5000CS TQ
84 5000S (2,000 miles away and a mile high)
90 80 (sibling's mode of transportation I get lynched into working on)
------------------------------
From: Jeremy R King <kingjer@eng.auburn.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:54:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RS2
Yes, I am a new member. Does anyone know where to find real meaty
information on the RS2 (maybe on archive)? All I've seen so far is a C&D
1/2 page, an Autoweek page, and an article my brother (BMW Employee)
brought back from one of his business trips comparing the RS2 with the
Euro Spec M3. That article was in German and I'm not fluent. Yet! I'd
looooove to get hold of a sales brochure or even a tech manual - Yeah right!
Jeremy R. King
1986 VW Quantum GL5
Audi at heart!!!
------------------------------
From: ptimmerm@mashtun.jpl.nasa.gov
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 09:19:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Red Hot Turbos (Wrap the exhaust)
Am I the only one sick enough to get out and open the hood for
ventilation purposes while letting the engine idle before shutdown after
a hot run and/or in high ambient temps? It's easy enough and gives you
something to do while you let it idle.....
-glen
>>>>>
No Glen, your not the only one.
I do it so much I fear latch failure
on my hood. I ought to just cut slots
and stop the hood slamming.
paul t-
------------------------------
From: "Arun Rao" <rao@frisbee>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 09:23:30 -0700
Subject: Re: 5ktq: Can't get outter CV joint off
On Oct 23, 11:01am, Ljubisa D. Stevanovic wrote:
> Subject: 5ktq: Can't get outter CV joint off
>
Been there, done that :-| Yep, that's a toughie. I took
the half-shaft down to a local mechanic, and he took it off
in about 5 minutes. He clamped the shaft in a vise, used
some kind of pliers (I forget) to spread the circlip out,
and hammered the joint off the spline. It took a good bit
of hammering: there's no way I could have done it without
a vise. He also put the new boot back on with those clamps
that I find particularly difficult to put on (he had a crimping
tool of some kind to do that). $30 wasn't cheap, but it was
probably worth it.
If you can find a rebuilt half-shaft, you may find that cheaper
on the long run -- I couldn't get one for my '85 5KT at the
time, but my local parts store said they cost around $130 or so.
-Arun
- --
Arun Rao
Scientist
Pixar
1001 W. Cutting Blvd.
Pt. Richmond, CA 94804
(510)215-3526
------------------------------
From: Frank Deutschmann <fhd@interport.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 12:48:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: The Rapp on exhaust
LToy@aol.com sez:
> seems to me that if this really were a low cost way to efficient power, the
> factory would have done this.
It is not at all low cost -- that's the common fallacy! In order to use a
wrapped exhaust system, you really have to have an exhaust system fabbed from
321 stainless, or Ti. This is seriously expensive! Anything, and I do mean
anything, less will crack, distort, fall apart, etc.
As far as performance gains go, the real gains are going to be pre-turbo
insulation -- that is where the delta-t is at a max, so the potential for
heat loss (and corresponding drop in gas velocity) is greatest.
- -frank
- --
fhd@interport.net | Very often, a considerable lack of understanding is
1 212 559 5534 | apparent between `mathematicians' and `engineers.'
1 917 992 2248 | ... only a few men can master both theoretical
1 718 746 7061 | research and practical application. -- S. F. Hoerner
------------------------------
From: John=Winkelman%Law%Tek@banyan2.BV.TEK.COM
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 09:45:53 PDT
Subject: re: Coolant recommendations
IIMHO, the important thing is that the "anti-freeze" be phosphate free.
Used to be hard to come by, but in the last couple of years the majors
(Prestone, Zerex, etc.) all sell them, sometimes at a premium price to the
regular stuff, but considerably cheaper than the dealer brand.
john.d.winkelman@tek.com
------------------------------
From: "Graydon D. Stuckey" <graydon@apollo.gmi.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 13:07:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 4kqs Rear Suspension response
On Mon, 23 Oct 1995 PDQSHIP@aol.com wrote:
> Eibach Advertisement to sell lowered springs: "Uncool (insert 325 stock),
> Cool (insert 325 lowered)"........ Where is the math??????? Not sure your
> post used a different argument.....
Hey, I like these Eibach springs, and generally think they are excellent
pieces, But I couldn't believe the immature attitude and insulting tactics
that they show in this ad!
Unfortunately, it probaby works, because many of their custmers
are undiscerning enough to say, "yeah. it does look cool, gotta get me
some o' those."
Later,
Graydon D. Stuckey
graydon@apollo.gmi.edu
'86 Audi 5000 CS Turbo Quattro, GDS Racing Stage II
'83 Mazda RX7 w/13B, GDS Racing Stage 58474
------------------------------
From: Don Hoefer <hoefer@cary.eng.pko.dec.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 13:39:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant recommendations
Bob,
The parts guy at the dealer where I bought my Audi told me that
any anti-freeze marked safe for aluminum (It has to be phosphate
free to be safe for aluminum) was ok. He said that they go out
and buy it at a discount store when they run out of the expensive
stuff. I did not ask him what they charge in that case. He is
really nice. He has advised me several times of cheaper alternatives
to buying something from the dealer. I have used Prestone most of
the time. It is generally on sale for a reasonable price twice a year
or so.
BTW, I am still on my original radiator (13 years), second water pump
(10 years), and my original heater core needs to be replaced.
Don Hoefer
'82 Coupe
------------------------------
From: glen.powell@smc.com
Date: 23 Oct 1995 14:08:04 -0400
Subject: Re: The Rapp on exhaust
I've had wrap on the pipes on my '73 RA IV 455HO from the cast headers to
the open 'Trapps (no mufflers) for about 5 years now. The pipes are
standard muffler-shop aluminized 2 1/2" pipe, custom bent & welded. No
degredation has been observed whatsoever, but, this is a fair-weather
machine and NEVER sees rain or salt. I suspect that the temps in this
case are just not high enough to damage the pipes. YMMV.
-glen
------------------------------
From: Don Hoefer <hoefer@cary.eng.pko.dec.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 13:48:26 -0400
Subject: Re: 5ktq: Can't get outter CV joint off
Ljubisa,
I have had to really whack mine to get them off. Be sure to
strike all around the inner piece of the joint that is on the
splines, otherwise it may tend to bind.
When you do get the joints apart, put some of the CV joint grease
on the splines before you reassemble it. This prevents this
problem in the future.
Don Hoefer
'82 Coupe
------------------------------
From: "Bradford H. Kellogg" <bhk@genrad.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 14:16:31 EDT
Subject: Re: AUDI & Mercedes
On 21 Oct 95, Richard Klein wrote:
>All I've ever driven are 2-valve per cylinder cars, but I've heard
>that multi-valve engines sacrifice low-rpm torque for high-rpm
>horsepower.
You heard correctly - an Audi dealer told me this, and my `90 coupe
quattro (with the 20V head) seems to bear this out. It behaves
somewhat like a turbo: lazy get up and go, but while the revs build
linearly, the g forces seem to build exponentially.
------------------------------
From: PDQSHIP@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 14:19:19 -0400
Subject: Re: The Rapp on exhaust
In a message dated 95-10-23 13:09:07 EDT, you write:
>As far as performance gains go, the real gains are going to be pre-turbo
>insulation -- that is where the delta-t is at a max, so the potential for
>heat loss (and corresponding drop in gas velocity) is greatest.
>
>-frank
>--
..... Don't froget that downpipe tho, there are some serious triangles in
that pipe too......
Scott
------------------------------
From: Frederic Gittler <fjg@ch.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 14:19:49 -0400
Subject: RE: Consumer reports
At 11:19 10/22/95 +0000, Richard Klein wrote:
// On 21 Oct 95 at 2:08, Psychos 'R Us wrote:
//
// > > no, their reliability data comes from their loyal subscribers.
// > > does "inbreeding of data" mean anything to you?
// >
// > How "loyal" does the subscriber has to get to have CR take the data from
// > him/her? Personally, I know no one (who regularly subs CR) who has ever
// > been "contacted" by CR.
// >
// They print requests for information in the magazine itself, and
// occasionally mail subscribers detailed questionnaires. CR was never
// interested in my opinion when I subscribed, but only because I've
// never owned a car newer than an '85 (too old for them to care).
I have subscribed to CR for years now, and my opinion about the cars I own
got asked in the questionaires I have received for the last 3 years. I was
also asked about other kinds of things, like washing machines and the like.
All in all, I find CR to be a good source of informations, esp. for "simple"
things. For more complex items, like cars, there is a tendency to reduce
data too much to "standard meassurements." For cars especially, relying on
one opinion alone is hardly enough. For example, the A8 3.7 (the "small V8")
has been applauded by some, and heavily criticized by others; the catch is
in what gets acclaimed or criticized. Just like every driver, critics have
their own personal bias!
- ---
Frederic Gittler
'94 Audi S4 Quattro
'91 Toyota Previa LE All Trac
'86 Volkswagen Quantum Syncro
------------------------------
From: PDQSHIP@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 14:20:54 -0400
Subject: Re: The Rapp on exhaust
> Hmmmmmmmmmmm......... I guess you'll have to get "all nerdy" here to
> convince me!
Ok ......
>
> NASCAR cars are not turbo'd, so that's an apples n oranges comparison.
Exhaust is exhaust, Glen, turbo or no....... It is an engine and we're
talking heat (delta-t's here), and were talking apples and more apples in a
smaller bushel.......
>
> The Pro-Rally guys seem to like wrapping between the head and turbo -
> makes sense to me, keep as much energy in the exhaust as possible to spin
> the turbo and if something cracks or bakes, just replace it. ($$$ no
> problem)
Again, I reiterate what I have said for months now...... Wrapping the exh
from the exh manifold to the tailpipe would be the "best" heat/energy
application..... My concern is that, those of us who do not routinely tear
down our toys, or have 4ring sponsors that allow infinite parts replacement,
what is the most practical application for heat barrier/insulation...... So
the ProRally folks are right on the money (scuse the pun), but remember that
heat shield for energy to/at the turbo becomes a heat insulator when you shut
the car off........... So you coke bearings, crack exh manifolds, and tax
the limited oil/cooling properties of your audi..... The ProRally boys
prolly use brand new (if not oversized) radiators, larger oil coolers, and I
would guess some sort of Accusump arrangement, and how bout all those vents
in the hood.... All this is to bleed the heat from the turbo at idle or
off..... We really don't have that luxury of these things on a stock
car..... However, I do not disagree with the theory, never have, I have
cautioned many times tho, the insulating of the turbo and manifold without
addressing what this action will cause........
>
> Wrapping after the turbo would retain heat and therefore retain higher
> pressure/volume. Cooling the exhaust as fast as possible after the turbo
> reduces pressure and releives backpressure as the cooling gas is redcuced
> in volume/pressure.
Nice idea, but in reality not putting the wrap on the exhaust with the idea
of a cooling pressure drop is heading in the wrong direction........ I have
yet to see that scoop or airdam on any turbo car............. HINT: Reduce
heat/reduce gas velocity, glen....... And there is some speed, right at that
downpipe......
You have a major restriction at the downpipe/turbo pipe glen .........
Think of your downpipe as a header Glen....... Why would you wrap a header
one would ask........
>
> So, please explain, why does retaining heat and high pressure/volume
> after the turbo help performance? Go ahead, GET NERDY!!! (I got my pocket
> protector ready)
A turbo car is no different than a normally aspirated car after the turbo,
glen..... You still have to get exhaust gasses out
> On my '73 RA IV 455HO 'Bird I too wrap from the manifolds to the
> tailpipes, though the biggest effect I can feel is helping to keep the
> interior a bit cooler!
So why did you do this, Glen?
>
> How's the turbo availability lookin?
Got the CARB stuff late last week, hopin to have something this week, if
nothing else I will post a "to date" note.............
>
> -glen
>
>
------------------------------
From: Eliot Lim <eliot@u.washington.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 11:29:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: RS2
performance car did a comparison test with a 993, i believe... nice
detailed write up. this rag likes to feature audis...
forget Crap & Drivel (tm), they cannot be believed, regardless of
whether it is a good or bad review.
eliot
------------------------------
From: Michael Spiers <mikes@specnet.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 14:43:46 -0400
Subject: Turbo 5 Cam Keys?
Does anyone know if the woodruff (cam) keys on the Audi Turbo 5 are any
different, dimensionwise, from any other woodruff key out there? Last time I
did the timing belts in my 5000's, the key looked a lot like the key in my SB
Chevy, but I really didn't compare them that closely. Would any old cam key
work in these beasts, or are cam keys Audi Turbo 5 specific? TIA!
- --
- -Mike
mikes@specnet.com
mks107@psuvm.psu.edu
87 5000CS TQ
84 5000S (2,000 miles away and a mile high)
90 80 (sibling's mode of transportation I get lynched into working on)
------------------------------
From: Nick Deutsch <deutscn@Operatns.mohawkc.on.ca>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 14:43:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wires
message for all Audi lovers:
SECRETS OF SPEED TV SHOW ON ESPN THIS WEEK IN CANADA, I THINK ON WED. OR
THURSDAY.
it`s a must see for anybody interested in Audis, it`s all about Quattros.
A great show!!
------------------------------
From: bhk@genrad.com (Bradford H. Kellogg)
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 16:03:54 EDT
Subject: [none]
unsubscribe quattro-digest
------------------------------
From: Don Hoefer <hoefer@cary.eng.pko.dec.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 16:19:15 -0400
Subject: Re: 5k bad vibrations, conclusion
My '82 Coupe had the same problem all of the time when I
had the OEM Firestone S660 tires. I found that it would
go away when I drove at 70MPH for 20 minutes or so. I also
observed that the car would develop the same vibrations at
the speed that I drove most often at (60-65MPH). I assume
that driving on the temporary flat spots would wear the tire
out of balance over time. My dealer said that the problem
was constant with Porches. Owners were always coming in and
asking the dealer to balance the tires after vacations and
business trips. Balancing them won't do any good if they are
not round. The dealer said that they would tell the Porche
owners to drive the cars at least 100 miles and then have tires
balanced if the problem was still there.
Curiously, my Yokohama AVS U+4s don't seem to have this problem.
Don Hoefer
'82 Coupe
------------------------------
From: cking@legend.txdirect.net (Chris King)
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 15:29:39 -0500
Subject: A/C programmer confusion?
I have noticed an odd thing on my '88 5kCST with the Electronic Climate
system. Seems that my programmer (black box right behind glove box) gets
confused by certain temperatures, especially in the morning when I first
start up.
I usually keep the thing set at 72 degrees, and it works pretty well when
it's hot outside. It cools at full blast until the interior hits 72 and
then the fan turns down to a lower speed automatically. The problem I am
having is when let's say the outside temperature is 55-65 degrees, but yet
the car has been sitting in the direct sunlight, so it really feels hot
enough to turn the cold air on. The programmer "lever" (thing with the
cable on it) will move to the right, forcing out piping hot air. If I open
the glove box and reach in there and gently nudge the lever to the left, it
starts to move without any further assistance until cold air is coming out.
My question is this: Is there a sensor somewhere that might be going out,
could it be a weak cable pulling the lever, or something entirely
different? It's as if the lever gets stuck and just needs a helping hand.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated...
- ---
Chris King ===================================================
cking@txdirect.net '94 Corrado SLC (Sherry Red/Beige Leather)
San Antonio, TX '88 5000 CS Turbo (Metallic Black/Grey Leather)
===================================================
"55 MPH Speed Limit: May you RIP (hopefully)"
------------------------------
From: cking@legend.txdirect.net (Chris King)
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 15:34:44 -0500
Subject: Power lock woes on '88 5kCST...
Well, it's me again, with another strange problem. This one involves the
lock on the passenger side front door. My power lock mechanism works fine
when I use the key or the inside lock on the driver's side, locking all the
doors on the car plus the trunk. I can also lock all the doors when I push
the lock from the inside on the passenger's door. The problem is when I
use the key on the passenger's door, it locks/unlocks only that one door.
It even feels "dead" without that vaccuum-assisted feel the other doors
have.
What might this be? Could it just be a bad hose or something?
Again, I will await someone's wisdom on this matter.... :)
- ---
Chris King ===================================================
cking@txdirect.net '94 Corrado SLC (Sherry Red/Beige Leather)
San Antonio, TX '88 5000 CS Turbo (Metallic Black/Grey Leather)
===================================================
"55 MPH Speed Limit: May you RIP (hopefully)"
------------------------------
From: Minven Wang <mwang@stern.nyu.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 17:02:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: BLAUfergnugem Muffler, not fit?
Last month, I finally decided to replace the whole muffler of my
troublesome '86 5kcs. I bought the whole kit of Fonos muffler
from BLUAfergnugem, for $276 plus $24 shipping. When I send the
kit to a mechanics, he said the front pipe does not fit the mid
muffler tight, there is some lose play at the joint. He suggested
to get a Meineke front pipe for about $20.
I called Jim at BLAU, and he said he would sent another front
pipe. Today, the package arrived. But to my surprice, it contains
a front pipe and a muffler, not made by Fonos, but made by Bosal.
It seems that the Fonos' midmuffler had a female end, so Fonos'
front pipe has a male end (actually, there is no brandname on the
front pipe, and it looked like it is custom built to fit the Fonos).
But the Bosal's front pipe is female, so it has to fit Bosal's own
midmuffler's male end. (so much about the gender, hope it doesn't
confuse you :)
When I bought the muffler, Jim said the Fonos is well made. Compare
with the Bosal's, I find that Fonos seems has more solid material.
(I'm not a material scientist, that's purely subjective judgement)
My questions for the net wisdom are:
Sould I use the Fonos' frontpipe/midmuffler, which may has a lose
fit (some welding may also needed), or use the Bosal's, which fits
better, but seem not as good material (the Bosal's midmuffler is
a little smaller than the Fonos)? Is there a price difference
between the two mufflers?
As regard to service, the BLAU is OK up to now. Jim charged another
$150 for the Bosal stuff but promised to refund it when I send back
the unfit parts.
Thanks!
Minven
------------------------------
From: PDQSHIP@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 17:50:17 -0400
Subject: Re: The Rapp on exhaust
> Well, I remain unconvinced. I can see how retaining heat before the turbo
> helps to generate more boost, I buy this argument, albeit possibly
> cooking and cracking very expensive parts, so not for me. I can also see
> how this would reduce under-hood temps and possibly engine inlet temps as
> well, all very good too. This is why I wrapped the exhausts on the T/A,
> and to help keep the interior cooler.
>
> I still would like the techno-nerdy poop on how wrapping all the way to
> the tailpipe helps in turbo applications. I guess I can see some small
> improvement in exhaust scavenging effect on normally-aspirated cars by
> keeping the exhaust velocity up.....
Why do you differentiate between a turbo and a non turbo glen? After the
turbine the engineering app is the same
> though I really don't see how this
> effect would help when "sucking" through a turbine. Please enlighten me!
The turbines are pushed not sucked similar to an airplane wing with a hi
pressure and low pressure of the wing...... The high pressure pushes the
wing to move the fan, the fan itself is only spinning as fast as the velocity
of the gas it doesn't push any air out (maybe in theory right at lift
throttle), so the principle of exhaust velocity stays the same, you want to
keep the heat up to keep the velocity up, get the gasses out ASAP =
Velocity..............
> I am genuinely interested in understanding the physics behind this. Can
> you suggest a good technical book on this subject?
Let me ck my library for you...... I believe you can find most of this
theory in Tune To Win, if my memory serves correctly..............
>
> -glen
>
>
------------------------------
From: "Graydon D. Stuckey" <graydon@apollo.gmi.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 18:07:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Turbo 5 Cam Keys?
On Mon, 23 Oct 1995, Michael Spiers wrote:
> Chevy, but I really didn't compare them that closely. Would any old cam key
> work in these beasts, or are cam keys Audi Turbo 5 specific? TIA!
If you don't want to incurr the wrath of the Audi gods, you must
use the key that has four little "o"s on it. :-)
Later,
Graydon D. Stuckey
graydon@apollo.gmi.edu
'86 Audi 5000 CS Turbo Quattro, GDS Racing Stage II
'83 Mazda RX7 w/13B, GDS Racing Stage 58474
------------------------------
From: "Graydon D. Stuckey" <graydon@apollo.gmi.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 18:20:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: A/C programmer confusion?
On Mon, 23 Oct 1995, Chris King wrote:
> having is when let's say the outside temperature is 55-65 degrees, but yet
> the car has been sitting in the direct sunlight, so it really feels hot
> enough to turn the cold air on. The programmer "lever" (thing with the
> cable on it) will move to the right, forcing out piping hot air. If I open
> the glove box and reach in there and gently nudge the lever to the left, it
> starts to move without any further assistance until cold air is coming out.
This is a common problem. The cable is the actuator for the temperature
door. This cable (called a Bowden Cable) has a reputation for stickiing
in the full-hot position.
When this happens, the interior of the car gets too hot, so the
computer tries to reduce the temp door position, AND redirects the cooler
(ha, or so it thinks!) air to the A/C vents. This is very annoying as I
don't like HOT air blasted in my face. You can see this in the HVAC
diagnostics. The temp door position COMMAND will be different from the
ACTUAL position.
> It's as if the lever gets stuck and just needs a helping hand.
Exactly.
Later,
Graydon D. Stuckey
graydon@apollo.gmi.edu
'86 Audi 5000 CS Turbo Quattro, GDS Racing Stage II
'83 Mazda RX7 w/13B, GDS Racing Stage 58474
------------------------------
End of Quattro Digest V2 #517
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