re: AUDI 80

[Bob Kunz <bkunz@hpbs114.boi.hp.com>]

> 
> 
> > I recently brought an AUDI 80 GL, March 1985.
> > I am very pleased with it, in the three weeks I have had it so far.  
> > I was just wondering whether anybody had any experience of problems  
> > with the electric windows switches. The front passenger window does  
> > not work at all. The rear nearside works fine from the switch in  
> > the back, but will only rise from the console switch in the front.
> 
> I had a similar problem develop in my 90.  First, the front passenger 
> side switch would not raise the window, only lower it.  A couple months 
> later, the switch went out all together and the driver side switch for 
> the front passenger window would not raise or lower the window at all.  
> 

<<<snip, snip, snip>>>

This has got to be in the FAQ... The window lift switches have this
nasty problem of corroding the contacts through normal use. But, the fix
is really quite easy. Seems that older (pre '88?) switches are more
prone to this problem.

Firstly, you don't have to take the door apart to get at the switches. They
come out by lifting under the bezel with (gasp!) a screwdriver. Even the
master panel on the driver's door comes out this way. The circuit is
designed such that those little LED lights in them stay on when there
is power to the window circuit. It also is designed to allow the driver
to override the other switch. What this means is that current has to
flow through both switches (in their normal positions) in order for one
of them to actually work the window. This is why many failures involve
the window only going down.

The switches themselves can be "R&R'ed" by diassambling them. You need
to pry them open from the bottom. It should be obvious when you have them
out how this is done. They don't fall apart when opened -- trust me!
Inside you can clean the contacts with emery paper (400 or 600 grit 
sandpaper) and then you should spray them with a contact lube. Snap it 
all back together and things should be fine. Sure beats spending $35 a 
pop for new switches.

I can post the way the switches are supposed to work so that you can test
them with an ohm-meter. Is there interest for that?

Bob Kunz
bkunz@boi.hp.com