Trannies and "Der Old Audi Wagen"

["Al Powell" <APOWELL@agcom.tamu.edu>]

> From: STEVE DRANCHAK <Dranchak@gnn.com>

[snip]   An independent garage who claimed some experience with Audis told 
> me that unless the transmission is causing problems, I should leave it alone. 
>  He felt that Audi automatics were "delicate" (his word) and that under 
> normal use, changing the fluid wasnAEt necessary and might actually cause 
> problems. 

IMO, poor advice.

> This agrees with the ownerAEs manual which  recommends changing the 
> fluid only under severe service conditions or if you have a V8.  Of course 
> this is the same owners manual that makes no mention of station wagons or 
> quattros anywhere.  But  my local Audi store is telling me I should change it 
> every 30,000 miles no matter what.  Is there some benefit to this (other than 
> extra business for their service department)?

Recheck the wording in your owner's manual - and many companiess are 
MUCH too reluctant to recommend fluid maintenance (probably because 
they think less maint. is a selling point).  Having just done a total 
rebuild on a 1990 200 tranny, I am firmly of the opinion that you 
should drop that fluid IMMEDIATELY, have the screen/filter cleaned, 
and refill with synthetic auto trans fluid.  These trannies ARE prone 
to seal failure, which is VERY expensive.  I personally run Amsoil 
synthetic fluid - because it helps the trans. to run cooler (better 
heat dissipation properties, same as their engine oil) and because it 
does not break down as quickly as petroleum-based fluids.

DISREGARD the advice from the shop.  They do not understand Audi 
automatics and you will pay big time if you take their advice.  Change 
the fluid (twice, about 500 miles apart) to flush most of the petro-fluid 
which remains after the first change.


> From: abbott <abbott@io.com>
> Subject: Buy '85 5000 S Wagon? Too Good 2B True?
good to be true, and I am seeking your comments and insight.
> 
> Saturday I looked at an '85 5000 S wagon.  It is not currently driveable. 
>  The owners want $1000 or best offer.  It din't start initially because 
> the battery was dead, but after charging for a about an hour, it ran.  
> Seemed smooth although it was "clacky" because it hadn't been driven for 
> awhile.  The engine oil was black and needs to be changed immediately.  
> The CV boots were uncracked and felt good.  

No problem there exc. possible noisy lifters.  See other posts 
recently.
> 
 From the records, it appears the entire fuel system has been 
> replaced, including the gas tank.  

Any idea why? 

> Other maintenance looks good, 
> including a timing belt (? or chain?) replacement.  

Good.

> The owner tells me that the wagon essentially sat idle for about 
three years from 1990 to 1993.  

Why?  The answer could be important.

> It's missing a radiator hose.  When we put antifreeze and water in it, 
> the fluid drained right out, in lower rear portion of the engine 
> compartment. 

Is that a hose - or a freeze plug?  If it happens to be a freeze 
plug, that's likely to mean big trouble.  A hose is no big deal.

>Because of the radiator problems, we only ran the engine for 
> a short time, and I obviously wasn't able to drive it.  Three of the four 
> doors don't work from the outside, and none of the power windows work.  

The door-open problems are due to broken handles.  These are about 
$110 retail each, but are available from many sources for less.  The 
problem can be avoided in the future by lubing all pivot points in 
the door lock linkage with white lithium grease.  (You can do this 
while the door panels are off - necessary to replace the handles.)  
The handles will still hit you around $240 total for parts.

Power windows are a different deal.  It could be the switches (which 
you can probably fix yourself - information is available in the 
archives) or window regulators.  Try pushing the windows DOWN and see 
if they move.  If they can be pushed down, the regulators are shot 
and will run +/-$200 each plus labor (check me on this cost, list 
friends...).  But if the glass stays put, you can roll the dice on 
switches.  Even if you have to replace them, they're manageable 
($45 ea.. ?)

> The "support" arms on the rear lift gate are completely useless, and will 
> have to be replaced.  The tires look OK, but according to the receipts 
> are five years old.  

Support arms - don't know cost.  If you have to buy Audi, prepare to 
spend $$++.  Tires - recommend BFG Comp/TA, H-rated.  Good all around 
tires which handle well and with reasonable cost.
 
> They've been trying to sell it for two months, no luck.  I bet I can it 
> for $800 - 850.  

I bet so, too.  Audis are not the commodity in many parts of TX which 
they are in other (snow-advantaged) parts of the US.
 
> As it see it, it needs the following (I'm guessing on the prices): (1) a 
> new battery - $50; (2) a radiator hose - $50; (3) flush and fill the 
> radiator - $50; (4) labor and parts to gets the doors and windows working 
>  -- $500 ???; (5) oil change -- $ 20; and (5) two support posts for the 
> rear lift gate -- $ 75 each ???.  

First: do NOT buy this car unless you are willing to do most of the work 
yourself.  I can see the potential for big labor bills, ecpesially 
fiddling with windows, switches, etc.

1)  Yup.  Buy it at Sears, but make SURE to get their international 
model with a side vent which connects to a small hose - vents acid 
under the car.  Cost = $85.
2)  Depends on whether hose or plug.  
3)  Flush and fill it yourself.
4)  You're a real optimist - a born Audi owner!!  
5a)  Change it yourself (if you can't do this, you are NOT the guy to 
buy this car...trust me...) and run a can of engine cleaner through it - 
then dump the oil and put in new.  If you keep the car, and it 
doesn't burn oil, use a synthetic oil of your choice.
5b)  No opinion.  Check price by phone.

> So for an investment of $1600 I can get a wagon with a retail book of 
> $3000, with a lot of life left in it.   

No chance.  You will spend more than this unless you're big-time 
lucky.  HOWEVER - when you do get it running, you will be amazed what a 
great car it is, and it will be worth the extra $$.
 
> I'm thinking about buying and repairing this vehicle to replace my wife's 
> 86 Honda Civic.  My wife is understandably afraid of buying a car that 
> might turn into a money/hassle pit.  I think this wagon is a diamond in 
> the rough, and am looking for arguments to persuade her (or maybe I'm 
> wrong).  

You're both right.  It's likely to be both a diamond in the rough AND 
a money pit, compared to a Honda.  You can't just drive an Audi - you 
must work on it.  And she will be aghast at the cost of parts.  One 
of the small crosses Audi owners learn to bear.

> My wife's Civic is a nice car, very reliable and zippy in town, 
> but doesn't have power steering and has **no** power above 55 mph.  It is 
> also very loud at highway speeds.  Am I correct in assuming that the Audi 
> wagon, by contrast, is a smooth highway cruiser?

Up to, say, 125 mph, you could say that!!!!!!!!!

> Generally speaking, is this good car?  I am inclined to discount the 
> "unintended acceleration" controversy as media hype, but I have no solid 
> information on it either way.  

THAT OLD BS!!!!!  Say, podner, you must be new to this list!!   Yes, 
"unintended foot-on-throttle" was discredited (even by the incredibly 
dense NHTSA) years ago.  It is a MYTH: repeat after me: A MYTH.