Re: Alarming Audi

[Matt West <matt@tdraft.demon.co.uk>]

On Wed, 27 Mar 1996 10:45:09 +0100 (MET), you wrote:

>Hi Audians,
>
>I'm thinking of fitting an alarm to my '88 80 1.8S. The Euro spec 80 is a
>really simple car with not a lot of electronics. Looking at my wiring I
>think it's a job I can do myself. I probably cannot buy the alarms over
>here you guys in the 'States can get, but I would like some recommendations
>from the do-it-yourselfers on this subject.
>
>1. Is it wise to install an alarm system myself or should I leave it to the
>pros ($$$)?

It depends on your knowledge and wiring ability.  You have got to make
a decent job and make good connections otherwise you might end up with
an alarm that wakes you up at night.
I also have the wiring diagrams for all Audi 80, 90, Coupe models from
1989.  They show all details of every wiring in the car.  If you want
to know the colour and size of the wires to cut on the ignition switch
(for instance), mail me.

>2. I definately do *not* want to be woken up in the middle of the night by
>my own alarm, because I locked a mosquito in, or because the car is being
>rocked by the wind (like my neighbour's, always at 3AM). Any ideas on this?

This all depends on what sort of detection device you use.  Don't
bother with tilt sensors as these can cause problems.

>3. What sort of protection should I go for? Door switches? Infrared? Is
>there a good way to disable the whole electrical system, so the car cannot
>be driven? Where should I mount the electronics? Is there a way of
>preventing someone putting a high-voltage current through the car, thus
>'zapping' my alarm?

Most alarms will immobilise the starter motor circuit anyway.  You can
fit another immobiliser to isolate another circuit.  You can get some
cheap 'electronic key' types that are easy to fit.  They just have
four wires. Two for power and two that break into the circuit that you
wish to immobilise.
Most basic alarms will detect voltage drop.  These can cause problems
if your radiator fan cuts in, so you can usually switch this option
off.  You should monitor the door switches and fit an extra switch on
the bonnet.  Also some interior protection like ultrasonics or a
microwave detector.
As far as high voltage zapping goes, I would of thought if anyone was
to do this it would probably destroy the car's own electronics anyway,
so wouldn't be an effective way of nicking it.

>4. Anything more you'd like to share on this subject? (Even just amusing
>alarm-related stories meaning 'don't do it like this!) Are there any
>do-it-yourselfers who made up a low-cost alarm or theft prevention device?
>(And I don't mean 500 volts through the door handles)

I have just fitted a cheap remote control alarm under the driver's
seat.  The idea of this is to have a siren inside the car to blast in
the bugger's ears.  I have wired this up to a dual zone microwave
detector that sits in the centre console pocket.  The inner zone will
trigger the alarm and the outer zone will trigger a voice unit that
tells them to "step away".
I have also fitted a simple electronic immobiliser that breaks the
starter motor circuit.  As well as this I have fitted a simple key
switch that breaks the fuel pump wiring.
This is all in addition to the existing under-bonnett alarm that just
works on the door switches.

The only trouble with this lot is that I now have a very fat key ring
because of all the keys and alarm transmitters.

Matt West
Oxford, England.
e-mail : audi@tdraft.demon.co.uk
1989 Audi Coupe 2.2E