[Author Prev][Author Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Author Index][Thread Index]

Remote detector and Clutch Q's



"Pandya, Raggi        CA-MNTPO1" <RPANDYA@MNTPO1.CA.unisys.com>

Asked  - 

> My question is as follows:  will the disassembly of the detector result   
> in the circumvention of the "VG2 Invisibility"?  Will it be detectable   
> again?  I am assuming that the actual casing has some role to play in the   
> EMF suppressions.  Is this a correct assessment?  The actual antenna   
> (receptacle) will remain in the casing, only the face plate with   
> associated lightning's will be removed.

Outright guesses, OK?

1)  Detectors are not made for exposure to weather.  Therefore, if 
you move it behind the grille or somewhere similar, you will need to 
find a way to weatherproof it.
2)  To confuse the issue, detectors generate heat which must be 
dissipated.  Your inside-type detector is made to have air circulate 
around it.  If you weatherproof it, don't cut off all air 
circulation or it may fry.
3)  If I were going to remote a unit in this way, I would NOT remove 
the entire face plate.  I would run wires from one of the warning 
lights - and use them to kick a relay mounted inside the car.  THAT 
relay would have its own buzzer and light (powered by a separate 12V 
connection) mounted on a panel of my own design, which would not be 
identifiable to the gendarmerie.
4)  I suspect the non-detector-detector feature is more electronic 
than based on the case design, BUT by doing what's described in #3, 
I would keep the unit intact, not violate the case design (other than the 
opening required to run the wire out) and hedge my bets in that 
respect.

From: Phil Ethier <ethier@freenet.msp.mn.us>

> I fueled and washed the car last night and put it in the garage.  
> Everything seemed normal.  My wife just phoned me to describe the 
> problems she had this morning.  When she first got in the car, the clutch 
> pedal seemed too low.  She says she sensed very little pedal travel and 
> could not shift the gear lever into reverse easily.  She then pumped the 
> pedal several times and the clutch worked fine.

Phil - sheer speculation - if you have a hydraulic slave cylinder 
clutch, suspect the slave cylinder.  Many are prone to pitting and 
hanging up.  They are also usually (at least in the cars I've done) 
cheap to replace with NAPA parts.

Al Powell                           Voice:  409/845-2807
Ag Communications                   Fax:    409/862-1202
107 Reed McDonald Bldg.             Email:  a-powell1@tamu.edu 
College Station, TX  77843-2112
W3 page - http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/rpe/alpage.htm