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84 4KQ Susp. Clunk & Power questions



My '84 4KQ is clunking in the rear suspension.  It is constant, and seems 
to happen most when running over bumps, but also happens when
power is being transferred, such as when the drivetrain undergoes a 
torque reversal.

I have had the rear A-arm bushings replaced recently, and the diff mounts 
<look> OK.  I am wondering if this could be caused by the rear strut 
bearings going south?  

Also, is it possible to swap the camshaft on this engine for one of the 
later model 5-cylinders for the extra horsepower? If so, does anyone have 
an idea of where to get one?

Thanks for any help!

Alex Kowalski
'84 4KQ
'68 327 Corvette Convertible
From:      owner-quattro-digest
To:        quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
Subject:   quattro-digest V3 #350
Reply-To:  quattro
Errors-To: owner-quattro-digest
Precedence: bulk


quattro-digest             Monday, 15 April 1996       Volume 03 : Number 350

*
*  Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
*  See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
*  In this issue:
New owner of Quattro
Re: Repost on Burning Oil and Bentley  
It's OUT! It's OUT!
Virginia City Hillclimb
Misc. Parts and Questions
Speedometer & Steering wheel (fwd)
Re: Reverse problems
Re: Repost on Burning Oil and Bentley
UFO brakes (WAS: Insurance Bashing)
Re: 4ktq update
Re: Porsche/V8
Re: 10V to 20v?
Ur Q for sale cheap, Need advice.
Radiator: Repair vs. Replace, Plastic vs. Metal
Re: Blower Thingy?
RE: Blower Thingy?
COMSCC @ NHIS on 4-27 & 28
Re: UFO brakes (WAS: Insurance Bashing)
FWIW on 10vt upgrades

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jean Pichette" <jpichett@acs.ucalgary.ca>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 11:22:15 MDT
Subject: New owner of Quattro

Hi,
I just got this address for quattro owners and thought I would
just send a short note.
I just bought a 1986 5000 Quattro S/W Turbo and will be looking
for information about it in the near future.
Is there a Home page or any other address to look for for info or
how do we go about finding info.
I've always been a VW fan and so far quite happy with my
purchase.
I am located in Calgary, Canada.

Thank you,

Jean Pichette

------------------------------

From: prl@ptc.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 13:27:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Repost on Burning Oil and Bentley  

>1. I have seen, from time to time, addresses of places that can get you
>Bentley manuals.  Has anyone ever considered getting the manual direct from
>Bentley?

	Yep.  Got mine direct. For a '87 5kcstq manual, it was $139 out the 
door.  Don't know if that is cheaper than going through a middleman, but I 
wanted them "right now".

_____________________________________________________________________
Paul Luevano						'94 CBR 600F2
prl@ptc.com						'87 5KCSTQ
Waltham, MA USA						'86 5KCST
________"Man's purpose is to live, not to exist."-Jack London________

------------------------------

From: Glen Powell <gpowell@acacianet.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:28:56 -0400
Subject: It's OUT! It's OUT!

No, not the buggered strut - but the ENGINE! The engine is out! I never =
thought that an old engine sitting under the car on the cold concrete =
garage floor could look *SO BEAUTIFUL*!!!

It will, I'm sure, take ~1-2 weeks to git all the small parts & HW I =
need and also some serious 'Autobahn brand' Elbow Grease (Tm) to git =
everything clean, painted, etc, and ready for the KUQEFH to go in, but =
it is happening now (slowly).........

Anyone have an Ur-Q flywheel in good shape? (don't ask.....)
How about the tube that supplies water to the WC turbo for 5000 =
applications?  (snap! SH_T!)
Any suggestions on ex temp guages? I would like to find a VDO guage that =
matches the factory stuff......and plan to thred the fitting for the =
'sniff tube' in the downpipe-to-turbo fitting and install the ex temp =
probe there. Thoughts?

How about the engine mounts? The ones in there were the 'old' type. You =
shouldah seen the pieces and crap that fell out of what was at one time =
the turbo-side mount! The replacement mounts are the new type, of =
course. Do I need new or 'special' HW? Do I need a heat shield for the =
turbo-side mount? Thoughts?

Some KUQEFH specs:

Displacement + 1.0mm                                 ccs   ???
piston to wall clearance .0042 - .0044
Ring end gap - top .018 second .014
oil clearance MAINS .0031 - .0035
oil clearance RODS   .0022 - .0025
core shift - main line .0003
crank size MAINS std   RODS std
crank end play .004
cam   270  timing  installed @ 8  BTDC
head torque   75 Lbs
balance bobweight for crank 830 g

CAM SPECS

valve     lash      lift  duration
intake    .010"  .410"   270
exhaust .012"  .410"   270

for dergreeing - checking clearance .050"

valve       lift    duration
intake     .410     236
exhaust  .410     236


- -glen

------------------------------

From: Qclubusa@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:35:44 -0400
Subject: Virginia City Hillclimb

The Quattro Club USA Virginia City Hillclimb is June 22-23.  The cost will be
around the $200 mark...This event fills up quickly so anyone that is
interested is encouraged to sign up asap.  contact is Darlene Lyndsley at
612/474-0231 for more information and registration forms.

------------------------------

From: Kyle D Ledford <r3kdl@dax.cc.uakron.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:40:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Misc. Parts and Questions

I am looking for the following:
	
	Sometime ago someone told me where I could get the Mirror glass 
for the right side mirror of a Coupe GT... This is the power heared 
mirror blue tint.
	My friend is looking for Outer CV joints for his coupe. I believe 
that they are bad as so does he. There is that clicking sound as you 
turn.... now would both of them be bad if it clicks when turning both 
ways.. both boots are bad.. Do not reaally want to replace boots if 
joints are bad, would rather replace all at once? Also are they had to do 
yourself? Is it necessary to have a lift?
	I had a queation ahile back about power door loks... Well I 
checked the pump it is working but it does not get power from the 
doorlok... If I give it power it works... Is the door lock actuater bad?
	
	Well thanks for the help in advance.....

         
        /\    /--------------------------------------\    /\
       /  \  /             Kyle D. Ledford            \  /  \
      / ** \/       Kappa Kappa Psi, Zeta Omicron      \/ ** \
     /                 The University of Akron                \
    /__________________________________________________________\
   / Audi Coupe GT              |r3kdl@dax.cc.uakron.edu        \
  /  Kicker, MB Quart, Autotek, |r3kdl@vm1.cc.uakron.edu         \
 /   Audio Control, Alpine      |"Caution Case Sensitive System"  \ 
<_______________________________|__________________________________>
 \     The Surrealistic Adventure that will become Your World     /
 /________________________________________________________________\

------------------------------

From: Crazy Cajun <astros@WPI.EDU>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:41:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Speedometer & Steering wheel (fwd)

I'm sorry if this posts twice but i got a strange error message after i
tried the first time.

I need to change my speedometer.  I have a used instrument panel i'm
replacing the old one with.  It is an 85 5ks.  Do i need to remove the
steering wheel to pull the unit out?  I pulled off the horn cover
(centerpiece) and saw nothing but possibly a small screw behind the horn
with a small hole to access it.  The lighting was poor so i don't even
know if there is a screw there.  Could someone please help me out here?
I hate trying something without knowing and screwing it up.  Thanks...

					-Noel
					 85 5ks





------------------------------

From: Karl Edward Oechsel <keo7755@tam2000.tamu.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 12:43:51 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Reverse problems

Bruce,
	Something that my dad and I just figured out after we replaced the 
automatic in my '86 5000CS Turbo with a 5spd, that the mechanic that 
acutally changed the transmissions out, decided to put the 5spd in there 
with some defective and old parts from the other car that the old trannie 
came out of.  The part that I am referring to, which is the same as in 
your '89 I think, is the ball and socket joint that connects to the 
from the linkage to the actually trannie.  If this part and the other two 
ball and socket joints that are right near by, one for one of the rods 
and another for the other plus a adjusting rod that has two joints as 
well, are not in very good solid shape, it will cause weird things to 
happen to your shifter.  Check your manual to see what I am talking 
about.  This might help but maybe not, it's just a thought.

Karl.


------------------------------

From: cngnyec@pipeline.com (Richard Davis)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:44:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Repost on Burning Oil and Bentley

Judge, 
  I have ordered 2 different Audi manuals and recieved better prices from a
local German parts place than from Bentley.  In my experience, the original
mfgr usually will not discount from MSRP in order not to compete with their
customers and bend any noses out of shape! 
Mike

------------------------------

From: Peter Henriksen <peterhe@microsoft.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 10:49:57 -0700
Subject: UFO brakes (WAS: Insurance Bashing)

UFO brakes are a nickname given to the internal caliper brakes used by
Audi on the 91 200 quattro *wagon* (not on the sedan) and on the early
nineties V8s. Audi figured they could better braking by increasing the
swept area of the front brakes. To do this without putting bigger wheels
on the cars, they figured out a way to mount the calipers on the inside
of the rotor, thus being able to extend the rotor all the way to the
inside edge of the wheel. This has been leading to some cooling and
other problems that make the rotors warp very, very quickly (sometimes
when the cars came off the truck, I've been told at the dealer).

Audi switched to using some new material in the rotors sometime in 92 (I
think) and is still using remanufactured rotors as new rotors are hugely
expensive. The remanufactured ones ain't cheap either, but it's
better...

Look for a cage like structure around the front brakes, visible through
the wheels, to see if a car has UFO brakes. They're not necessarily a
lot of trouble, but the potential is there...
- - peter, peterhe@microsoft.com, redmond, wa
  91 200qw
  94 acura legend gs
  80 mazda 626
  O-

>----------
>From: 	Al Powell[SMTP:APOWELL@agcom.tamu.edu]
>Sent: 	Saturday, April 13, 1996 3:09 PM
>To: 	quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>Subject: 	Insurance Bashing
>
>Terry Moore <terrym@nando.net> said:
>
>> What are UFO brakes.  I have made an offer on a 91 200TQ.  Does this car
>> have UFO brakes?  Should I be concerned?
>> 
>> PS:  I didn't respond to the insurance bashing last week, so send me a 
>> metal (sic)
>
>I'm sure others will help on the brakes - glad you didn't take the 
>insurance bashing personally.  It's the *companies* I get frustrated 
>with...the people who make a living selling the insurance are 
>generally pretty nice folks. They're stuck with the company line (and 
>rates) just like the rest of the "employed community" is....and if 
>you work for GEICO, you have my sympathy, and my encouragement to 
>find an honest employer.
> 
>
>Al Powell                           Voice:  409/845-2807
>Ag Communications                   Fax:    409/862-1202
>107 Reed McDonald Bldg.             Email:  a-powell1@tamu.edu 
>College Station, TX  77843-2112
>W3 page - http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/rpe/alpage.htm
>
>

------------------------------

From: dlawson@ball.com (Dave Lawson)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 11:56:16 -0600
Subject: Re: 4ktq update

Hi Bob,
Oh boy, you have only just started...  (he he he he)

>Well, the insanity started on saturday... We got the engine out of the
>5kt donor car, along with the wiring harness (with surgical precision, I
>might add!) and labeled everything! Not bad for one day. But looking at
>the turbo motor and the  motor in the 4k, we scratched our heads a while.
>We know it will fit.. (if the Urq can do it..!)

I am putting it into an ur-q, so I guess I have some advantage here, I know
it all fits.

>Its the computer stuff that scared me. I need the K Lambda, off the
>Turbo, right? The CIS on the 4k wont handle the needs. Which means the
>computer needs to be changed... the 4k uses idle and WOT switches where
>the T uses throttle position sensor etc.... geez.

I have had my swap in the works for 9 mos now and just getting back into
it. I spent 6 hours on saturday buzzing out the left and right side 
harnesses
from my donor 89. At this point I am figuring out what I need to use from 
the
old harness and how and where to make the break.

I went for the complete engine including all the sensors and misc stuff
including idle stab. I also have the carbon canister, O2 frequency valve,
wastegate frequency valve. Don't have a deceleration fuel cut-off valve,
not sure it is really needed. I also grabbed the all the fuel system stuff,
fuel distributor, injector lines, injectors and control pressure regulator.
Be sure to get the whole ECU to engine wiring harness and ECU. It's
also nice to get the the engine harness from the left side of the car 
although
you can fab what you need here. Be sure to grab the coil and its booster.
Don't forget the knock sensor, RPM sensor, ref mark sensor, especialy
the mount blocks. Also get the distibutor amd hall sensor. Grab the
flywheel and clutch/pressure plate too. The list just goes on and on and
on...

The turbo uses the WOT and idle switches too, just packaged differently.
For my swap, I learned of a mid 80s Audi application which has seperate
WOT and idle switches, kinda like the ur-q setup, but goes into the 
integrated
3 wire connector. This will then plug right into the late model  harness. I 
am
using the stock ur-q throttle body and a 5000 turbo intake manifold from,
I think 84. This guy is nice because it doesn't have the idle air bypass 
tube
built into manifold on the 86 and later cars and the early throttle body 
works
with it. Also it has a mounting boss on the side of the manifold for the air 
temp
sensor, whereas the later 5kT cars have the air temp sensor in the 
intercooler.
I don't think I will be using the aux turbo coolant pump. I would get these 
parts,
in case you decide to plumb it in.

>Also. Remember the $10 turbo I took out of the junkyard off the 5kt? It
>was a K26. Not water cooled. Well, the one in this car is water cooled,
>and it also says K26. What the....

Go with the water cooled one. The 5kT cars made the change somewhere
in 84/85, but before 86. Yup they're both K26s.

>Anyone done this job before? If so, let me know!! OTherwise, Ill keep you
>all posted!

Well I am up to my chin right now, changed out the front crank seal
yesterday and will be installing the tweaked turbo this week. Then its
flywheel/clutch/engine/tranny assembly time. The fun has just begun.
Any questions, ask away!
 -
Dave Lawson  dlawson@ball.com



------------------------------

From: Karl Edward Oechsel <keo7755@tam2000.tamu.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:05:26 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Porsche/V8

Carl,
	If you could get the information on those V8 brakes, sure would 
appreciate it.

Karl.

------------------------------

From: Brett N Augsburger <augsbbn@Eng.Auburn.EDU>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:19:41 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: 10V to 20v?

On Mon, 15 Apr 1996, Robert Paul Andrews wrote:

>
> Just curious, how much trouble, if even possible would it be
> to change my 10v 90 to a 20v?
> Rob
> randrews@post.smu.edu
>

 Alot, and why? Turbocharging would be a better route if looking for more
power, but still probably ludicruos unless your loaded.

Brett Augsburger



------------------------------

From: EICHSTEV@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 14:22:56 -0400
Subject: Ur Q for sale cheap, Need advice.

I'm going to look at an 83 Ur Q tonight, price $4500.  Owner has lots of
goodies like Koni's, Eibach springs, Abt dash, 2 sets of wheels, extra engine
w/ Shrick cam.  Sounds too good to be true.  

My question is, what do I look for in terms of problem areas?  I know 5ktq's,
but not these.  The car has been advertised for at least a month, must be
something wrong.

TIA

Steve
86 5ktq for sale cheap
85 Coupe GT
84 VW GTI
79 Triumph Spitfire

------------------------------

From: erict@cta.com (Eric Thorstenson)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 14:30:42 EDT
Subject: Radiator: Repair vs. Replace, Plastic vs. Metal

Hi all. Was replacing the rad fan on my 5kS a few days ago, and
happened to notice that the rad was leaking. Seems to be at the
junction between the plastic end cap and the Al core. Went back
about a year in the archives, and found some discussion on the
topic, but didn't find any real consensus on the issue, so I
figured it might be worth revisiting...

Here's a list of the pros and cons I've come up with so far:

             Pro                  Con
- ----------------------------------------------------------
Repair       cheap                expensive (when it breaks unexpectedly)
                                  core deposits (unless cleaned)

Replace      longevity            $$$
             no deposits

Plastic      originality          somewhat fragile
             lightweight

Metal        higher thermal K     heavy
               (only if copper)
             more durable ??

Currently, I'm leaning toward replacement with an OEM unit.
Thoughts anyone?

Eric T.     '86 5kS
erict@ra.cta.com

------------------------------

From: Brett N Augsburger <augsbbn@Eng.Auburn.EDU>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:39:55 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Blower Thingy?

On Mon, 15 Apr 1996, Barry George wrote:

> Wanted to know if anyone has any idea about the fan/blower that is
> located over the drivers side engine mount on my '84 5000 turbo. All I
> have is a Hanes Manual that doesn't give any info (must get a Bentley).
>
> I've never seen / heared this little electric motor operate at any time.
> Seems to draw air from around / below the oil pan and blow it around the
> injectors and inlet manifold. Is this supposed to cool the injectors /
> manifold when hot?
>
> Wounder if it could be helping (???) with my Hot start problems?
>

Yes, it blows air over the injectors. Should help prevent air in fuel
lines I guess. Don't know exactly at what times its
supposed to operate though.
What was your hot start problem? Most often the case is bad fuel check
valve or leaky injectors.

> Another quick question. I obviously haven't heard of the Bentley manual
> before joining this News group. Thanks! But do you need special testing
> equipment to to use it or did I here someone say that you punch in the
> codes through the Climate control panel then watch the tacho for a
> return?
>
> Thanks, Barry
> (Still learning!)
>

 You need a lot of patience and in some cases special tools to use the
Bentley manual. Some mechanical ability wouldn't hurt either. I don't know
how the thread on engine related error codes got mixed up with the climate
control panel error codes. The climate control system has it's own
diagnosis system with code reading and all. Does not always prove helpful.
The error codes for the engine are completely different and are read by
inserting a fuse in the fuel pump relay and watching the engine check
light. This again is not always very helpful.

Later,

Brett Augsburger


------------------------------

From: Glen Powell <gpowell@acacianet.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 14:53:26 -0400
Subject: RE: Blower Thingy?

Yep!

It's to cool the injectors to prevent vaporlock and might also improve =
performance in high temps and/or prevent buildup of crap/varnish inside =
the injectors.....  I  ran without it on the Ur-Q for about a year or =
so, didn't make any noticable difference without it, though I have since =
reinstalled it along with a new injector air distribution manifold and =
blower air inlet hose. I've thought of installing a cockpit-mounted =
switch to force the blower to run on demand - might be used in =
combination with an on-demand rad fan switch - would be nice for cooling =
things down between races..... I've also thought about adding some LEDs =
to monitor the rad fan speed and the injector blower operation from =
inside the cockpit, but, naaaaah, too many other more inportant things =
to do first.....

Anyone know if the injector cooling blower runs only when the engine is =
running, only when the engine is off, or both? Different sensor values =
available to make it kick in at a lower temp?

- -glen

------------------------------

From: Glen Powell <gpowell@acacianet.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 15:04:34 -0400
Subject: COMSCC @ NHIS on 4-27 & 28

Anyone planning to be at the COMSCC time trials and competition at New =
Hampshire International Speedway (NH USA) on Sat/Sun April 27th and =
28th? I'm planning on running the 4KQ.

C'mon down!  (or up!)

- -glen

------------------------------

From: dieckeaw@plu.edu
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 12:33:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: UFO brakes (WAS: Insurance Bashing)

On Mon, 15 Apr 1996, Peter Henriksen wrote:

> UFO brakes are a nickname given to the internal caliper brakes used by
> Audi on the 91 200 quattro *wagon* (not on the sedan) and on the early
> nineties V8s. 

Aren't they on the sedan too?  The '91 200 sedan at UVAS has the UFO 
brakes.  

- -Adam


------------------------------

From: Stephen Williams <mannlaw@indy.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 14:38:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: FWIW on 10vt upgrades

	Called Hoppen's today to see what mods they have for the 10vt and 
prices. 
	Here is how a part of the conversation went--don't know who I was 
talking to:

	"...what ECU and turbo modifications do you sell--need them for 
an '89.5 200tqw...."

	"...what year?"

	" 89 1/2--the dual knock sensor motor"

	"okay.  891/2 you got the 20 valve motor"

	"HUH?"

	"...that is the 20 valve motor."

	"Uh, no, I've got the 10 valve turbo motor."

	"Oh, we don't sell modifications for the 10 valve motor."

	
Hmmmm.  Take it for what it is worth.  Again, this is just the guy that 
answered the phone.  Coulda been cleanin' the place for all I know--but 
it didn't seem that way.


Later,

Bruce

------------------------------

End of quattro-digest V3 #350
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