Re: Fuses/Wiring

[Robert Houk - SMCC Bos Desktop Hardware <rdh@UrQ.East.Sun.COM>]

   Many thanks for your input. My wiring is 10AWG around copper and the fuses
   holders look up to the task being color coded to 10AWG. Your point about series
   vs parallel is a good one, cnat think when I have ever seen a series wiring in
   a car except maybe directional flashers in the old days.

   So the calculation is 260/13.6= 19.118 which explains why the 20Amp fuse works.
   I may have to go to 25 Amps if the battery deteriorates because the voltage
   will approach 12.  In fact by deduction, if the voltage drops to 13, I break
   the 20amp barrier. With wipers, driving lights, heater going etc, that could
   easily happen in winter.

   Am I on the right track here.

Um . . . first off, the amperage will drop as your voltage drops (for a
constant load impedance, and for the 12-14v regime, it should be fairly
constant).

Second, if you're pulling 19.118 amps, you want at least a 30 amp fuse
on that line. Why? Try *carefully* touching the 20A fuse after it's been
passing 19A for awhile . . .

					-RDH