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Re: 5000S Engine dead



Tom, I fully agree with the Al Powell comments. Your mechanic knows you
have low comp. and that's all he knows. At this point concentrate on diagnostics...
wet/dry is good... any mechanic can do it. I prefer a leakdown test myself
... because we do boat engines and usually engine removal runs into
thousands of dollars (they didn't build the damned things to be 
worked on) and we must be sure.. .. Sometimes finding a mechanic who has
leakdown equipment and knows how to use it aint easy--but at least 
you then should have a good idea where the compression is going.
Gasoline washing cyl walls and rings to cause that kind of
compression loss would be way down my list of suspects. The I5 is a tough, tough 
engine. Cooked valves from pre-ignition/detonation, or overheating is
a possible, but so are other things.
     Certainly agree with Al that a used engine is unwise at 
this point. Used engines are big question marks unless you know the 
history. BTDT (cubed).  Much rather rebuild a head on my own enigne,
or even a rebore/ring job if necessary.
       I don't call myself an expert! There are many of those on this 
list. Just trying to help...
Les  
> Tom, be sure you get both a wet and dry px reading before you spring 
> for a new engine. Have your mech get a dry reading, then squirt 
> enough oil (30 wt okay)in cyls  to wet down the sidewalls. If the wet 
> test brings the pressure up, then rings it could be. With all cyls 
> down that low it's a good chance rings are bad, but I'd also make sure 
> the valve timing is okay... couple of minutes to check that.
> Les
> 
> 
> <<<<<<<<<<<<<Tom Johnson, you  sent>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> 
> > Date:          Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:24:37 +0000
> 
> > First of all, let me thank everyone who sent me a reply regarding the 
> > problems with my 85 5000S.  I took it to another mechanic, who is 
> > familiar with Audi's.  The verdict from him is that my engine is shot.
> > 
> > It's still hard for me to believe that my engine could be dead at under 
> > 100K miles, but this is what his explaination was:  He said that my 
> > compression is only ~50-60 psi per cylinder (which unfortunately 
> > confirms what my first mechanic said) and was probably caused by the 
> > fuel leaking into my cylinders.  He said this could be caused by me 
> > cranking the engine when it was stalled (in the attempt to start it 
> > again) or by an ignition system problem which he hasn't bothered 
> > looking into further since its useless at this point.  Apparently, 
> > enough fuel got into the cylinders without igniting and mixed with the 
> > oil and presto - wore out the rings.   
> > 
> > A used engine is going to run me $675 plus installation and a rebuilt 
> > one is outrageous (got prices from $2,000 and up, not including 
> > installation).  Considering the amount that I could get another Audi 
> > for and that getting a new engine still isnt going to solve my ignition 
> > system problem, Im going to scrap the car.  So unless someone can prove 
> > this mechanic wrong, Im afraid that my Audi is dead.
> > 
> > I would greatly appreciate any input on this situation (i.e: your 
> > mechanic is full of it as gas wont wear out the ring, or there's no way 
> > gas can get into the engine to wear it out.)  I need to get my car out 
> > of my mechanics shop ASAP, so any responses by tommorrow would be 
> > great.
> > 
> > I look forward to buying another Audi (maybe an 87 or 88 5KS) while I 
> > mourn the death of my old one:-(.  Let me also add that this mailing 
> > list has been a great help.
> > 
> > 
> 
>