Re: brake Drain

[Chris Newbold <cnewbold@eznet.net>]

Al Powell wrote:
> 
> > From: Chris Newbold <cnewbold@eznet.net>
> >
> > Would it be reasonable for me to attempt to flush my brake
> > system, given some fluid, the right sized wrench, some
> > tube and a container, the spare-tire jack and some
> > mechanical inclination?
> 
> I think you can do it yourself - BUT - not unless you add two
> jackstands so that you can put your body under the car safely.  DO
> NOT - I say again - DO NOT - attempt to do work under the car while
> it's on the jack.  Actually, if you can borrow jackstands and get all
> four corners up at the same time, it will go faster.

Hmmm. So there's more to this than just the bleeder valves on the
calipers, eh? I thought perhaps it could be done w/o getting
underneath.

I guess I have to get to the clutch slave, but I figured I could
wedge myself far enough underneath w/o jacking at all to get there...

Oh well, stands are a worthy investment any how.

> Also - if you don't know how to do this, post again asking for a
> specific procedure.  (Or check the archives - seems this has been
> discussed not too long ago...) I've always reqruited an assistant to
> do the brake pumping for me, so I can open and close the bleeder
> valve under the car.  Call me old fashioned....

I checked the archives and came up with: RR->LR->RF->LF as the
preferred order. There were a few unanswered questions, though:

I also saw that I should start with the MC bleed valve. Is this
the same as the clutch slave? I don't recall seeing any bleed
valves on the MC or ABS hardware.

Should I flush all of the old fluid from the reservoir through the
MC (or clutch) bleeder before starting on the wheels?

Do any of the calipers have multiple bleed valves? If so, how
do I proceed?

The car has ABS and one of those height/weight sensitve proportion
valves on the rear. Any special handling for these guys?

(Reply direct, as I don't want to subject everyone to this stuff
all over again...)

Thanks,
-Chris