Re: Incredibly Stupid Question

[Andrew Duane USG/PE <duane@zk3.dec.com>]

Hairy green toads from Mars made Porsray@aol.com say:

> RE: the plugs:  I don't see where your exact problem is  The plug wires
> have a right- angle connector at the head, this connector is about 6-8"
> long and goes straight down to the plug.  This connector is in the
> center of each cylinder head bank, in between and alongside each
> aluminum air intake manifold.  There should be a rubber pull-ring on
> top of the connector.  By twisting the connector and pulling up, the
> entire wire/connector unit should lift free of the plug.  I suspect you
> are looking at the wrong side of the wire for the plug; the metal
> shield protects the wires as they go back to the distributor.
> 
> I believe the tool kit has a socket for removing the plug; what I use
> is a 5/8" spark plug socket with a long 10" extension with a locking
> connector on the end (a MUST otherwise when you pull the extension out
> after installing the plug, the socket will stay stuck to the plug).  By
> the way, make SURE your new plugs have a 5/8" hex; the larger 13/16"
> hex plugs won't fit, no matter what the parts book says at the auto
> parts store.  When installing, I recommend a LITTLE anti-seize compound
> and the shop manual says tightening specks are 15 ft-lbs.

Thanks for the help. It's those right-angle connectors I can't get off.
You can't really twist them (4 of 5 are sandwiched in between manifold
pieces), so you have to pull them straight up. There are no pull-rings
on this car, just smooth rubber boots.

Maybe I'll try pulling harder; I only needed a light tug on my car,
these maybe require a YANK.

I will look for that wrench in the tool kit. My plug wrench is about 5"
long, and likely won't fit down there. I will also check that the F6DTC's
I have (which are the Audi spec'd ones) are the smaller size.

Someone else also suggested a small screwdriver to pry up the edge
of the connector as it mates to the valve cover. I'll see if this helps.

> As far as the cap/rotor - HAVE FUN!  The cap isn't too bad to get at
> (only 15 minutes of cursing - make sure the engine's COLD).  The rotor
> is the real "female dog"; this is bonded to the distributor shaft, and
> requires a destructive removal.  If the engine runs fine all the way to
> the 7K RPM redline, I'd probably let sleeping dogs lie and leave it alone.

Hmmm. I hate procedures like this. The cap doesn't look *too* hard;
thankfully I have small hands with long fingers. Helps getting into
those tight places.  Maybe I'll just return the rotor if the old one
looks OK. The car drives pretty well, except for a slight hot-start
problem. This is just maintenance for helluvit.

-- 

Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7)			duane@zk3.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corporation		(603)-881-1294
110 Spit Brook Road
M/S ZKO3-3/U14
Nashua, NH    03062-2698

Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too heavy to care.