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Re: ur-q fuel pump?



   I own aan 82 qtc with a IA stage 2, advanced cam, 15lbs of boost.  
   Now my problem is that with the air on the car runs out of steam at approx
   4000 to 4500k, and in first its real sudden loss. (The computer must be
   shutting it down). And with the AC off, it still runs out of steam at

If you have a "sharp" cutoff (engine turns off) at 4000rpm, you are likely
experiencing manifold air temp overheat. However, another equally-likely
(or more likely, IMPOO) option is that the ECU is simply getting bad readings
on the air temp sensor. This sensor operates at extrememly low signal level.
I had a running battle with the ********* thing for months before finally
figuring out that the pins on the cable/ECU were making occasional bad/
dirty contact. Try simply unplugging/replugging the ECU/cable several times,
then run it up and see if that cures your problem . . .

   4500-5000 rpms. Now I've replace the o2 sensor, as well as the coil. Could
   this be that I am still overloading the coil, should I put an upgraded one
   in? or is it the fuel pump? What other fuel pumps can I put in to feed more
   gas? I've heard of somebody putting in the 928 one?
   Ideas? 
   Or is it just that its only a 2.2l and thats all it has?

Measure the O2 voltage -- if it's not .7 (or thereabouts/higher) full-throttle
4000rpm/higher (actually, just about any RPM, but you get the idea), then
you have fuel starvation. If it's happily .7/higher, then you need the
Schrick cam (stock cam runs from roughly 3000 to 4500 RPM; Schrick cam will
extend the power-band all the way to redline -- the first time I went out
with my Schrick cam, I bounced off the rev-limiter in 3rd gear, I was so
surprised/caught off-guard by the extended response of the cam!). The
stock fuel system -- in good operatin' condition -- will easily support
15PSI at 6500RPM. HOWEVER, given Audi's electrical tendencies, I would
measure the O2 sensor to make sure that it is safe at upper RPMs (if your
voltage is .5/lower, you are seeing fuel starvation/lean-out [or faulty
WOT switch! Quick check, at idle, manually engage the WOT switch, your
frequency valve duty cycle should immediately lock at 50.0%], which is
**DEADLY** under high rpm/boost!).

(You can go through the archives, especially about 2 years ago, for my
running, um, commentary on Boost, S4 turbo upgrade, stock cam, Schrick
cam, fuel pressures and pumps, groundings and electrics, all in the name
of power [getting the car to run the way it *should* run]...)

					-RDH