Re: Subject: ...(also general mechanical question)

["MRGATE::\"AM::fmartin\""@oa.ithaca.edu]

From:	NAME: Frank Martin <fmartin@AM@OA>
To:	IN%"quattro@coimbra.ans.net"@MRGATE@OA

>From: Nivi@aol.com
>Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 00:28:43 -0400
>Subject: S4 fan vs. CoupeQ fan...(also general mechanical question)

>PS: Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on my current problem:
>While trying to change the oil on my Chevy Caprice, I mistakenly tightened
>the oil drain pan bolt just a quarter of a turn, which unfortunately stripped
>something, and then the plug/bolt wouldn't unscrew from the hole. It rotates
>freely in both directions, and even with vise-grips, you can't pull it
>through the pan opening. The mechanic took a look at it, tried the same thing
>that I did, but then said the there were two clasps/crimps that held a nut
>behind the opening within the drain pan, and that's why they couldn't get the
>bolt out either.
>
>I asked whether they could drill it out, and they said that if they did that,
>they would still have the nut in the block/oil pan, floating freely. To
>replace the oil drain pan as per the mechanic would involve 3-6 hours just on
>labour, plus the oil pan/gasket, and any parts they might break, including
>removing the exhaust manifold, and front suspension parts. (I took a look at
>it, and it would be a b**** of a job! You can't even see the oil pan bolts!!)
>
>
>I'm going to call another mechanic tomorrow to see what he says...any ideas? 
>
>TIA,
>
>Dorab (nivi@aol.com)

Hi Dorab.  I thought such things only happened to me.

An idea or two:

1) Do I understand you to say that there is essentially a (formerly secured) 
nut on the other end of that oil pan drain plug?  I'm surprised at that. Any 
pans I've dealt with seem to be threaded themselves, to accept the plug. If 
there *isn't* a "nut-like affair" on the inside end, I'd still try the 
drill-it-out method, using some big vise grips to hold the plug. the idea 
would be to drill the *center* of the plug out (using two or three 
progressively larger bits) not the entire plug. Once the plug is essentially a 
thick-walled pipe, you should be able to take the vice grips and collapse it 
enough to work the entire thing out the hole.
2) If there is a danger of leaving a big piece, like a nut, in the pan, the 
only other option that comes to mind is to find a mechanic that will/can braze 
the plug to the pan so that the entire affair is permanantly sealed, then cut 
a new hole to drain oil out of the pan. This new hole can be plugged with one 
of several fixit pieces (metal self-threading or rubber plugs) available at 
auto parts stores.

In both cases, you may end up with metal shavings inside the pan. You'd need 
to wipe them out as best as you can (say, a bent wire coathanger with a bit of 
rag secure at the end), and try to flush the rest out with a brief 
run-and-dump oil change.

Both scenarios involve some crappy work, but seems much less so (and $) than 
an entirely new pan.

Frank 
fmartin@oa.ithaca.edu
'89 100Q
'88 Mazda 323 GTX
'84 H. Accord (with a bum oil pan drain plug)