what holds the driveshaft nut tight?

[quk@sievers.com (Phil Payne)]

In message <199608281342.JAA16953@CLEMSON.EDU> "Jeremy R. King" writes:

> Loctite is a good idea, but the truth is that the nut is a crimped lock nut.
> You should really replace it with a new one each time.

Back in the late 1960s, I saw a letter that Rolls-Royce got from a third-world 
airline about a jet engine overhaul kit.  "Your nuts didn't fit your bolts, so 
we reamed them out."

My CVs and halfshafts are lying on the floor under the car at present.  It 
looks like they'll all need replacing fairly soon - the outer right is really 
shot and the rest are showing some signs of wear.  Bearing in mind that the car 
will need a BEM Mueller alignment anyway, I think I'll replace the lot.  
They've done 140k miles, so I can't complain.  The TORSEN and gearbox are off 
too, for a new crankshaft oil seal and clutch to be fitted.  At the same time, 
215mm is coming off the exhaust midsection to allow a Dialynx manifold to be 
fitted.  The latter might or might not prove better than original, but it's a 
lot cheaper.  Again, the old manifold did 140k - let's see what Dialynx can 
manage.  The casting, as shipped, is pretty well as cast - BRM have had to 
machine the surrounds of the stud holes so the studs don't bend when tightened.

I'm hoping the oil seal (and perhaps camshaft and camshaft cover seals) will 
solve the mixture/performance/stalling problems.  I'm also having all the hoses 
pressure tested.

I borrowed BRM's Jetta GTI while my car is being done.  On a straight back lane 
around here, I often open the urq up to a comfortable 120 just to check things 
out - the Jetta felt lethally unsafe at 80.

More at the weekend, when I have the car back.

--
 Phil Payne
 phil@sievers.com
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club