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Out of the Office
I am in Phoenix. I'll be back around Monday November 11, 1996.
If you need immediate assistance, please contact Verlyn Fast at 303-784-2363.
Thanks
(This is a pre-recorded message.)
_______________________________________________________________________________
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From: quattro@coimbra.ans.net on Fri, Nov 1, 1996 10:02 PM
Subject: quattro-digest V3 #1311
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quattro-digest Friday, 1 November 1996 Volume 03 : Number 1311
*
* Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
* See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
* In this issue:
To Gear
and the Audi gods said, "Let there be light!"
RE: Where to buy Pagid Brake Pads???
RE: Where to buy Pagid Brake Pads???
Flush lamps
Jack Stands, Oil...
RAC Video!!
Throttle Cable
dye for leather seats
<All> Stereo Vendor Question
80/90 Strut tower brace for CQ?
Re: <All> Stereo Vendor Question
Jack's stand...
Pain in the A$$
Re: 1990 100TQ drivetrain parts
Audi News
A couple of questions
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Charles A. Schliebs" <Charles_A._Schliebs@jonesday.com>
Date: 1 Nov 96 15:42:12
Subject: To Gear
- ------------------------------Original Text------------------------------
To: quattro-digest @ coimbra.ana.net @ internet
cc:
From: Charles A. Schliebs/JonesDay
Extension: x47924
Date: 11/01/96 12:08:04 PM
Subject: To Gear
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom, Top Gear is on newstands in the US, and I too find it well done and
different from the others. I have seen the BBC show when in the UK, but have
not found it on any cable channel in US. Anybody out there know something I
don't about that?
Just a passing note re Audi acceptance: three of my partners have decided
within the last week to get A4 or A6 Quattro's. One is trading a 540i, one
has
no car (Manhattan), and one is trading a one year old Continental. None are
car enthusiasts, but this is nice to see as the more who buy generally make it
easier for Audi to justify bringing in the good stuff.
------------------------------
From: tjs5@lehigh.edu (THOMAS J. SMULL)
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 16:49:31 EST
Subject: and the Audi gods said, "Let there be light!"
FWIW, here's my experience with the Audi headlight Euro conversion:
Background:
The lights on my 1990 200q10v were pitiful. A hazard even!
I tried the Competiton Limited bulb upgrade w/ harness, but it didn't
help that much. Turns out the silvering was peeling off the inside
of my headlights. New US headlights were about $175/ea from the cheapest
source I could find. Since they're known to be dim to start with,
I figured I'd take the plunge for Euro lights.
So...
I got the lights from Peninsula Imports (905-827-9407).
$329/each + bulbs + shipping = $700.00
I followed Peter Henriksen's very helpful directions which are available
from the Audi List Archives. (E-mail me if you need details.)
Joe Yakubik also helped me with the wiring.
For reference, the relevant part numbers are:
1 Left side headlight assembly (PN 0301071105)
1 Right side headlight assembly (PN 0301071106)
2 rubber boots (seals) to go around the Euro connectors (PN 447941189)
2 plastic connector holders (PN 447972957)
8 spade connectors (PN N-0170851-4)
NOTE: My local Audi dealer did not have this spade connector
part number on file, but he had a box of connectors on hand
and I picked the ones that looked like they fit the lights and
the plastic connector holders.
He only had 4 and sent me to the VW dealer for the rest.
As Peter H. stated, you must use these connectors because they're
designed to lock into the plastic holder and not back out of same.
For me, the most difficult part of all this was dealing with the grill
and trim pieces around the headlights. On my car, the grill has just
one screw in the top center of the plastic. Every other attachment
is by a plastic tab of some kind or other. The silver plastic trim which
runs under the grill is secured by a single screw on each side.
The metal trim pieces which surround the grill are held in place by
those little plastic bow ties.
Only on the left side of the car was I able to get all the trim completely
apart, so I ended up having the grill "hinged" on the right side of the car.
I'm sure if I had tried harder it would have come free, but I was worried
about breaking an expensive piece of Audi plastic. In any case, I had
enough space to get the old headlights out.
The Euro lights are deeper, so the battery jump-start terminal on top
of the washer fluid reservoir has to be unscrewed. No big deal.
Otherwise the lights are easy to mount - two screws above, two below;
HOWEVER: On my car, the grill has two plastic "fingers" which slide into
slots on the metal framework at the front of the car, just to the inside
of each headlight assembly. The Euro housings, being deeper, make the
re-positioning of these fingers very tricky. Again, to avoid breakage,
I ended up removing the (just-installed) left side light, positioned
the plastic finger behind the light, and then re-installed the left
headlight and grill more or less together. It all seems rather sloppy
during the process, but once you screw everything in and snap the trim
onto those bow ties, it looks like it did before.
Wiring the lights is fairly simple, just follow Peter's directions.
The connectors can be crimped, but I soldered them also.
At the moment, the "parking light" position on my car does nothing
to the headlights. I think that's because I left out the small bulb
that sits just under the main one. I figured that was for Canada's
DRL requirement, so I left it empty.
When the moment of truth arrived, I blew the 10 amp high beam fuses
immediately. I have 15s in now, and they seem to be holding.
The results are very impressive - an order of magnitude better than
what I was living with before. They look cool, too.
So is it worth $700.00 to upgrade? What's it worth to avoid hitting
a deer (or worse) on a dark road? I'd have to say it's money well spent.
Cheers,
Tom Smull
------------------------------
From: Peter Henriksen <peterhe@microsoft.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 14:02:22 -0800
Subject: RE: Where to buy Pagid Brake Pads???
I believ Jurid supplies the OE pads (at least for my 91 200q with UFO
brakes).
Ned Ritchie (Intended Acceleration) sells Pagid pads, methinks. Phone
number on the Web page's vendor list.
- - peter, peterhe@microsoft.com, issaquah, wa, usa
91 200qw
94 acura legend gs
80 mazda 626
>-----Original Message-----
>From: CHRIS AHOLA [SMTP:aholact@songs.sce.com]
>Sent: Friday, November 01, 1996 2:25 PM
>To: quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>Subject: Where to buy Pagid Brake Pads???
>
>
> Who sells Pagid Brake Pads? I've called several places and all
> they have are metal masters and Jurid (sp?). Has anyone had
> experience with Jurid?
>
> Chris
>
------------------------------
From: Peter Henriksen <peterhe@microsoft.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 14:04:03 -0800
Subject: RE: Where to buy Pagid Brake Pads???
Oh, and the Jurid pads I have on the 91 200 dust like nothing I have
ever seen. I can have the front wheels clean enough to eat off (and
believe me, I'm picky about where I eat) and have them under a thick
layer of dust less than a week of regular commuting later...
- - peter, peterhe@microsoft.com, issaquah, wa, usa
91 200qw
94 acura legend gs
80 mazda 626
>-----Original Message-----
>From: CHRIS AHOLA [SMTP:aholact@songs.sce.com]
>Sent: Friday, November 01, 1996 2:25 PM
>To: quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>Subject: Where to buy Pagid Brake Pads???
>
>
> Who sells Pagid Brake Pads? I've called several places and all
> they have are metal masters and Jurid (sp?). Has anyone had
> experience with Jurid?
>
> Chris
>
------------------------------
From: McLoffs@aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 17:15:07 -0500
Subject: Flush lamps
>the first american car with flush headlamps was, i believe,
>the 84 mustang SVO (4 cyl turbo).
>this was also probably the first DOT-approved "replaceable bulb" headlamp.
>the audi 4K(q) from 85-on had flush/replaceables.
>>Actually, the 84 SVO had sealed beams. In 85, they switched to the flush
headlamp design. I'm pretty sure this is when the law changed...
- - -DMR.<<
The 1984 Lincoln Mark VII had flush lamps. I believe 1984 was the first year
such things were allowed in the U.S.
- -Mike McLaughlin
1990 100
------------------------------
From: "Al Powell" <APOWELL@agcom.tamu.edu>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 16:23:56 CDT
Subject: Jack Stands, Oil...
> From: "Dave C." <conner@cfm.ohio-state.edu>
>
> There are four jack points on the Audis, right?
> So...when you use one of them to jack the car, and want to put it on jack
> stands, where do you put the jack stand?
Simple enough, Dave. You have two jack points per side: inner and
outer. Jack up using the outer, and use the inner (round pad, about
4" inside the outer) as your jack stand point. Your owner's manual
shows the outer ones. You can reliably lift the entire side of the
car using these. When I jack the rear, I jack using the mid-point of
the rear axle beam (I have FWD only) and use a jackstand under....oh
heavens...lemme think....I think there's another pad back there. If
not, there are definitely suspension points which work. If you're
just changing tires, use the front points.
OR - I also jack the front using a floor jack under the front
crossmember. Not according to factory dogma, but the wheels aren';t
pointing straight east and west yet.
> From: marriott@Summa4.COM
> Subject: Re: Amsoil Lubricants/Filtration
I'll add to the previous reply....
> > and application to Audi turbos. I am also evaluating Amsoil vs K&N air
> > filters and would like some feedback from users out there.
>
> I have an Amsoil foam filter, but no turbo and stock exhaust. It seems to
> work fine, but ymmv.
I have used the Amsoil filters for some years. They work fine and
are slightly easier to get in and out than the stock filter, which is
a GIANT OUTSIZE PITA. (Hmmm...I almost wrote "puta" for that last
word, which would almost be equally accurate....)
>
> > Is anyone using a by-pass oil filter. Pro/Cons? Does it reduce oil
> pressure?
I have used one on a 280ZX. They do NOT lower oil pressure. They
use a Tee at the oil pressure sending unit and divert oil thru the
bypass filter. That filter is even FINER than the stock Amsoil
filter, and is a slow-flow; it filters the oil once in about each
hour's running, If I recall...but that's probably not quite right.
I cannot make a bypass filter fit on my 280ZX, or I would be running
one now. I haven't cared to re-plumb the Audi. I personally think
the bypass filter is DANDY insurance, and yes, I do run extended
change invtervals...although they're be farther apart if I had the
bypass filter on.
About Ian Gregory's note:
SAY IT'S NOT SO!! Ian, hang in there. Hope they catch the sorry
ba***rd who stole your car!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Al Powell Voice: 409/845-2807
107 Reed McDonald Bldg. Fax: 409/862-1202
College Station, TX 77843
Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm
"Some people can tell what time it is by looking at the
sun...but I have never been able to see the numbers."
[From 5th/6th grade essays....]
------------------------------
From: mike tipton <mtipton@netten.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 16:26:54 -0600
Subject: RAC Video!!
Today must of been Christmas com early!!
In the mail I recieved the 1996 RAC British Touring Car video.!!!
Its an excellant quality and quantity tape...
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!
M
------------------------------
From: "Al Powell" <APOWELL@agcom.tamu.edu>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 16:37:22 CDT
Subject: Throttle Cable
> From: Frank Martin <fmartin@mr.oa.ithaca.edu>
>
> I'd had in mind a Q-list post from some months ago regarding too much slack
in
> a throttle cable. Recently, I was fiddling under the hood of my '89 100Q and
> checked the adjustment of this cable (car has about 114K miles on it) -
there
> did seem to be a lot of give to it. So, I pulled up the positioning clip,
> backed up the cable about 1/4-3/8", and popped the clip in. I've always
> thought that the car (and the only other Audi I've driven) had a longish
> peddle travel. Anyway, I've been amazed ever since that this little
adjustment
> has made so much difference in day-to-day driveability. Just the plain old
> "feel." There's no more horsepower, but you're into the "meat" of the
> throttle a tad quicker. (My guess is that someone who didn't know what I'd
> done under the hood would swear the car had gained 5 or 6 horsepower. Gosh,
is
> there money to be made there?)
>
> A (very) small thing, but maybe worth checking this same thing on your
(older)
> cars. Note: I didn't and wouldn't advise taking *all* the slack out. (Is
there
> some spec. to this in manuals?)
Frank - my mechanic tells me that the throttle cable goes first to
my automatic transmission, THEN to the throttle connection.
Adjustments in slush-box cars can alter the shift points. I've never
traced the cable, so I can't confirm - but I wanted to point this
out, as it may be a difference between the manual and auto trans.
cars!!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Al Powell Voice: 409/845-2807
107 Reed McDonald Bldg. Fax: 409/862-1202
College Station, TX 77843
Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm
"Some people can tell what time it is by looking at the
sun...but I have never been able to see the numbers."
[From 5th/6th grade essays....]
------------------------------
From: Anton Gaidos III <anton_gaidos_iii@firepower.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 14:52:37 -0800
Subject: dye for leather seats
Hi there, I am wondering if anyone has any experience with mocca colored
dye for leather. The seats in the urQ I am buyng has cracks showing
in the seat where the leather has stretched. Any recommendation?
Thanks
>Anton
------------------------------
From: "Al Powell" <APOWELL@agcom.tamu.edu>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 17:06:37 CDT
Subject: <All> Stereo Vendor Question
I've been seing ads from "Insider's Audio" in Car & Driver. They
advertise some bodacious prices and "gifts" (TANSTAAFL) for joining,
but want $44.95.
Has anyone on these lists (Audi and Z-car) joined this outfit? If
so, what's your judgement on them?? Do they offer a significant
savings on anything that's worth owning??
Thanks...
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Al Powell Voice: 409/845-2807
107 Reed McDonald Bldg. Fax: 409/862-1202
College Station, TX 77843
Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm
"Some people can tell what time it is by looking at the
sun...but I have never been able to see the numbers."
[From 5th/6th grade essays....]
------------------------------
From: RELAYER@aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 18:39:12 -0500
Subject: 80/90 Strut tower brace for CQ?
Dear friends and low flying Audi pilots,
I noticed that the later V6 Audi 90 had a strut tower brace, would I be wrong
in thinking that this would bolt right on to my Coupe Quattro (if I can find
one in a junked Audi).
Test drove an A4 the other night, man, i need to trade my 90 for that car, am
seriously looking at the finances to see if it's possible, but the on line
blue book has no info on 1996 cars, any other on line used car pricing
pages?!?!?!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Christian J. Long - Orlando, FL /\ _II
1990 Coupe Quattro / ` \ I_I I_I I
1990 90
Previous Audis:
1980 5KT, 1984 Coupe GT, 1985 Coupe GT, 1987 Coupe GT 2.3
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
******************Honk if you hate DRLs!*********************
------------------------------
From: AUDIDUDI@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 21:09:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: <All> Stereo Vendor Question
> I've been seing ads from "Insider's Audio" in Car & Driver. They
> advertise some bodacious prices and "gifts" (TANSTAAFL) for joining,
> but want $44.95.
Is this the one with a Scottsdale, Arizona mailing address? I checked them
out and discovered their address wasn't a big warehouse but a Mailboxes etc.
location ... needless to say, caveat emptor.
_ _
/ l l o l \ l o Jeffrey Goggin
/__l l l / l l l l l l / l l AudiDudi@delphi.com
/ l l_l \_l l l__/ l_l \_l l http://people.delphi.com/AudiDudi
------------------------------
From: AUDIDUDI@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 21:09:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Jack's stand...
While we're on the subject, whenever I'm changing a tire by the side of the
road (which has happened more than I care to remember in the last year!), I
always slide the tire under the rocker panel while I'm installing the spare
... if the car should fall using the OEM jack, it will probably mess up the
wheel a bit but won't catch me under it!
_ _
/ l l o l \ l o Jeffrey Goggin
/__l l l / l l l l l l / l l AudiDudi@delphi.com
/ l l_l \_l l l__/ l_l \_l l http://people.delphi.com/AudiDudi
------------------------------
From: rpm126@psu.edu (rpm126)
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 00:24:07 -0500
Subject: Pain in the A$$
All,
Here's another dealer horror story:
This last wednesday I took my 200 to the local Audi dealer in State College,
PA to have wheel bearings and rotors replaced. The price was high, but the
service was quick and exceptional...so i thought. On the way out the
service rep mentioned they adjusted the brake speed sensor on the front
right wheel, he said it was out of whack. Well, I leave and the first time
i go to stop, there is a terrible noise and pedal shimmy around three MPH to
stopped. I immedately went back to the shop and he said that's how it
should be (yeah, right). They said they'd look at it friday and if it was
a fault of their's that they would repair it no cost. Turns out now the
sensor is broken and they'll be happy to fix it for me....for a nominal fee!
I said I'll take my car now and after arguing with the service rep, left.
i am going to call the owner of the dealership and see if he will rectify
the situation. The rep said that the damage didn't occur in the shop.
Sure as hell the problem wasn't there before I took it in, and I didn't
damage the sensor in the minimal distance I drove after leaving the dealer.
he even said they worked with the sensor. I am afraid i won't get any
satisfaction from the owner, and be left S.O.L . Does anyone have any
experience with this type of situation? Perhaps BBB, or a lawyer?
(preponderance of the evidence is in my favor) I just want their wrong
righted, at theirexpense. Any and all help appreciated.
Reid Meyer
Penn State Univ.
JR- Finance
'90 200t (124k)
'81 5ks (R.I.P.)
------------------------------
From: "Meron" <phwomp@cosmoslink.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 18:56:44 -0800
Subject: Re: 1990 100TQ drivetrain parts
Yes,
What do you have?
Please reply to me directly:phwomp@cosmoslink.net
------------------------------
From: bs986@freenet.carleton.ca (Thomas A Robbs)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 22:18:29 -0500
Subject: Audi News
Automotive News - September 30, 1996
Audi prepares hybrid wagon
Ingolstadt, Germany - Audi may become the first company to sell a hybrid
power car. It plans to sell a station wagon version of its A4 Avant,
called the Audi Duo, next fall.
The Audi Duo uses diesel and electric power. It will be sold in Germany
at a base price of about $40,816. The car debuts at the Berlin auto show
Oct. 19.
Separate drive systems power the front wheels. One is a 90-horsepower,
1.9 liter, four-cylinder, direct-injection turbocharged diesel engine.
The other is a 29-hp, water cooled three-phase AC synchronous motor fed by
a lead acid battery mounted in the rear cargo bay. - Greg Kable
Automotive News Europe
Paris Auto Show
Audi: The German automaker launched the A3 in Europe this summer, but the
new lower-medium model will have its auto show debut in Paris.
The three-door entry level model went on sale in Germany on Sept. 6,
Already 20,000 plus orders have been placed in Europe.
Audi denies the A3 will be sold in the United States but rumors persist
that a five-door version could be introduced in America in early 1998,
possibly with a 4wd option.
1997 Audi Prices
Prices include manufacturers suggested retail price and destination
charge. No adjustment has been made for year-to-year equipment changes.
Increase
(decrease)
1997 from final
price 1996 price
A4
1.8T 4-door* $23,490
2.8 4-door $27,930 $995
A6
4-door $33,100 $325
4-door wagon $34,900 $425
Cabriolet
Convertible $35,100 -$2,175
A8
3.7 4-door fwd* $57,400
4.2 Quattro
4-door* $64,900
* New model for 1997
Prices and comparisons include destination charge of $500 for 1997 and
$475 for 1996.
Audi prices 1997 models
Detroit - Audis high spots for 1997 are new models at either end of the
price spectrum.
At the low end is the A4 1.8-T sedan at $23,490. It is priced $4,440
below its sibling, the A4 2.8 sedan
Heading the Audi line is the new A8 sedan, which has an aluminum space
frame. The 3.7 liter sedan with front wheel drive is $57,400, and the 4.8
liter Quattro sedan is $64,900.
All prices in this article include the destination charge, which is $500
on 1997 models up from $475 on 1996 models.
Audis carryover models include the Cabriolet, which is priced at $35,100,
down from $37,275 for 1996.
Leather seating, power top, wood trim and remote locking, which were
standard equipment on the 1996 model, are extra-cost items in a premium
equipment package for 1997.
Tom
- --
Thomas A. Robbs bs986@freenet.carleton.ca
1988 90Q Milwaukee, WI - USA
------------------------------
From: Shea & Brigitte Rutstein <rutstein@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 22:30:37 -0500
Subject: A couple of questions
I have an 86 5ks. About a month or two ago I read that some of you
were getting parts at Radio Shack. I think they were the cooling fan
resistors. Does any one know the specs for these? I've looked in the
Bentley and Haynes and although they are listed on the wiring diagram no
values are given.
Also, last weekend I went about changing the antifreeze and radiator
hoses and noticed that there was a broken hose at the end of a pipe that
runs from the crankcase up to rubber connection to the intake manifold. Is
this pipe the crankcase ventilation system? It doesn't seem to be shown in
the manuals. There is no PCV valve on it (and I can't find an EGR on the
engine either so I guess it doesn't need one). The hose and pipe and the
upper rubber piece that goes to the manifold and idle stabilization valve
were totally plugged with gunk. I eventually managed to clean it all out
and replaced the broken hose (with heater hose), but the car seems to run
about the same except the lifters seem quieter now. Does anyone else have
experience with this hose and pipe plugging up? I run Mobil 1 so I thought
it should be cleaner. Of course, it could have been that way since I got
the car 5 years ago.
Third and last question: recently there is a high frequency
vibration through the steering wheel when driving over forty which increases
with speed. Kind of feels like going over the road where they've ground
some of the pavement off. It doesn't seem like wheel balance or alignment,
but could it be a cv joint going bad? Doesn't seem any worse on turning and
is not noticeable at low speed.
Thanks,
Shea Rutstein
#026#
------------------------------
End of quattro-digest V3 #1311
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