Re: A4 antenna amp?

[Jay@aol.com]

In a message dated 96-11-05 10:43:40 EST, dan_masi@MENTORG.COM (Dan Masi)
writes:

> > I stuck my handy Levitron "BLEE-bloo-BLEE-bloo" signal tracer
                                 ^^^ oops.  typo.  s/b Leviton.
>  
>  What is it?  How do it work?
>  

You can get it at any contractor-strength telecommunications supply house.  I
know zip about electronics, but I think it uses the Principle Of Induction,
which says that any wire can act as an antenna for a strong signal, as long
as that wire is not printed on the rear windshield and marketed as an "FM
antenna".

It's a little box with a switch and two alligator clips.  When you flip the
switch one way, it sends out a "BLEE-blue-BLEE-blue" signal that you will
eventually start hearing in your sleep.  Flip it the other way and it sends
out a continuous signal.  Either way, you take your Magic Leviton Tracer
Wand, sold separately, and it picks up the signal.  You wave it in every
direction to see where the signal is strongest, and then you follow it along
the wall, door, sewer line, etc. until you find the other end of whatever
you're looking for.

Runs about $70 each for the transmitter and wand.  As with all
contractor-grade telecom equipment, it's a really cool shade of bright blue
that says "I wouldn't even stop at Radio Shack for breakfast".

>  >  There is a red-with-blue-stripe wire running from the radio
>  > harness to the speaker/amp assembly, labeled "U(B) +12" on the
>  > radio.  Interestingly, if I give this 12 volts unswitched with
>  > the car off and the door open, the door-is-open bell starts
>  > ringing, as if there were a key sensed.
>  >
>  > Anybody remember what the red w/blue stripe wire is supposed to
>  > be hooked to?
>  
>  I think you've already answered the question.  Remember that the
>  Audi head unit has an interesting way of deciding when to turn
>  on and off.  Stays on when you turn the engine off.  Shuts off
>  when you pull the key.  Turns back on after you put the key in
>  and start the car.  This wire must be the key-in-ignition signal,
>  then, and by hooking it directly to +12, you're overriding the
>  ignition switch and telling the rest of the car that there's
>  a key in there.  Sounds like you can safely ignore this wire.
>  

Hmm.. I think it's needed for something, 'cos the amp isn't getting any
power, and that is the only power-looking wire on the speaker/amp harness.
 I'll do some more testing.

>  > Also, do I have to worry about "competing" amps on the rear
>  > speakers - I'll have the factory amp with no inputs, and my
>  > regular amp, both connected to the speakers?
>  
>  Ummm... you don't wanna do that.
>  

Didn't think so.

>  > I can't see a way to disconnect the factory amp, since I
>  > believe it's impossible to disassemble the speaker/amp module.
>  
>  But how are you connecting to the rear speakers then?  I would
>  think that if you've got things apart enough to get at the
>  rear speaker inputs (factory amp outputs), that you can do
>  the disconnecting there.  No?

Good point.  I soldered the new speaker wires to the rear speakers; I suppose
I could *unsolder* the wires coming from the amp.  I will still be powering
the amp, but it won't be hooked up to anything.

Jay