[Fwd: rpm]

[Phil@sievers.com (Phil Payne)]

In message <328173D0.28E2@mhv.net> fred smith writes:

> Bryan Gunn wrote:

>> Hi Fred,
>>
>> Check out your control pressure regulator, aka warm-up regulator. I
>> think that as it fails, it increases your control pressure. More
>> accurately, it ceases to reduce your control pressure at the
>> appropriate times. Higher control pressure yields lower fuel
>> pressure if memory serves. The warm-up regulator contains a bimetal
>> strip that manipulates the control pressure as the engine temperature
>> increases. Bimetal strips aren't known for leading long and
>> trouble-free lives, hence they fail - especially as the car gets
>> older but not necessarily higher in mileage.

> Bryan.
> This problem seems to be related to components that are common to the
> vehicle before and after the engine change. I used the warm-up reg from
> the new engine,this engine (MC,1987 5000tq) does not use the two port
> vacuum switch that the WX engine does. just one vac hose to the
> regulator. Anyway it's the correct reg for the motor. All other
> swithes,sensors etc. that were on the new engine were kept, with the
> exception of the idle and the wide open throttle switches and the inlet
> air temp sensor, since I used my old intake manifold.I also changed the
> distributor, I used the old one because the connectors were
> different.What is really drving me nuts is that this problem existed with
> the old engine.

My warm-up regulator is definitely shot.  The MB engine uses part #034
133 403A.  This also has only one vacuum connector, although it's capped
on my car.  What interests me is that the new one I bought in Berlin
yesterday morning has an adjustment screw recessed into the face that's
bolted to the engine block.  The old one doesn't have any adjustment
there.  Anyway, the "shot" one gives me 6 bar onto the fuel metering
head and the nominal should be 3.4 - I'll be changing it tomorrow.


 Phil Payne

 (phil@sievers.com, despite what the bounces say.  If I don't
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