Re: HOW TO: 4000 suspension [very long]

[shields@tembel.org (Michael Shields)]

> > Let me tell you, you need tools here.  I'll spare you my story, but
> > suffice it to say that I did not buy the tool, I regretted it, and that
> > modifying a socket is *not* the way to go.
> 
> I've done this job at least 15 times over the years (on the same car, even!)
> and have never had any problems using my modified 14mm deep-wall socket.  If
> I ever stumble across the correct tool, I'll buy it but until then, this one
> works just fine for the amount of torque involved.  

I managed to *almost* get it with a regular socket, somehow.  This was
very frustrating.  I'm happy with the modified nut, though; it also saved
me on the passenger side, where the strut tube began to rotate while
torquing the slotted nut and I was able to hold it with the allen key.

There are many ways to do it, of course.

> > FYI, those two settings -- moving the ball joint, adjusting camber, and
> > moving the tie rod end, adjusting toe -- are the two main adjustments
> > in an alignment, which is why your car now needs to be realigned.
> 
> Agreed about the tie-rods but I've never had to loosen the balljoint camber
> adjustment bolts to do this job

Reason would dictate that since the balljoint was aligned before you took
it off the car, it should like up again.  However, I just was not able to
get it right, after a *lot* of cursing and pleading.  Only on one side,
though; the other slid right in.  YMMV.
-- 
Shields.