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-------- Original Message Text --------

quattro-digest            Tuesday, 7 January 1997      Volume 04 : Number 029

*
*  Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
*  See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
*  In this issue:
Re: "Hey Mister, ya wanna buy some lights?"(aka 5.slo)
Re: BIG VALVES
Hydraulic hose.
Cheap filters....
Unsent Message Returned to Sender

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dave Head <dhead@sundial.sundial.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 16:44:04 -0500
Subject: Re: "Hey Mister, ya wanna buy some lights?"(aka 5.slo)

At 11:26 PM 1/6/97 -0600, you wrote:
>Hey Buttmuch, Who's wasting who's bandwith?

The only way you got here is if you subscribed, or someone who uses your
computer subscribes, or someone forwarded a message to you. This is a
privately run list.  We do NOT send junk mail. 
I would be happy to forward your threat to shut down this list to the
educational institution you are accessing the internet through. Now go grow
up. There are over 700 people on this list worldwide, and I don't believe I
would want to upset them when they know your real name, where you go to
school, the name of your company...  Especially when there's someone right
in the same state as you who has great potential to be mean and vindictive.



********************************AUDI FAN***********************************
                                       EMCM(SW) Dave Head  
87 5KCStq 183K miles and counting... 1.8 bar boost - Whee!
                                              Maitland, Florida
******************************************************************************


------------------------------

From: STEADIRIC@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 16:51:57 -0500
Subject: Re: BIG VALVES

>I'm not sure of the part numbers, but there is an air-cooled VW app that 
>uses 35mm sodium filled valves. they're a lot longer than the audi's, but 
>they're cheap and your local machine shop could cut them down and do the 
>keepers...

Better watch how far you cut them down, lest that expensive (And Toxic) 
Sodium get's out.....


Later!


Eric Fletcher S.O.C.
'87 5KCSTQIA2RSR2B
St. Louis, MO

STEADIRIC@aol.com




------------------------------

From: dak@lemur.raster.Kodak.COM (David Kavanagh staff)
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 15:17:12 -0500
Subject: Hydraulic hose.

Since replacing my pump, I've noticed seepage from the front banjo joint.
This connects to the damper hose which goes to the accumulator (aka. bomb).
I tried once to re-torque it, but it started leaking again. I decided that
there must be some restriction in the hose (as Bently indicates there could be),
and that I should let it seep there instead of blowing a seal on the pump.

My question is about that hose. It seems to be in two pieces. Are one or both
of those pieces prone to clogging? Can I clean it out? Should I just order
a brand new one? I'd like to be done with hyrdraulics once and for all,
but I fear the Audi Gods won't let that happen. Help!!! :-|0>

	David (87 5KCSTQ)


------------------------------

From: "Al Powell" <APOWELL@agcom.tamu.edu>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 17:02:20 CDT
Subject: Cheap filters....

tgsgronback@mindspring.com (Steve Gronback) asked:

>         I purchased a Fram oil filter for my '91 20v 200 Quattro Turbo.  It
> fits, is cheap, and is the correct Fram part #.  The dealer, however, says
> don't use anything but the Audi filter (at 10 times the price).
>         Is this good advice?  Is the Audi filter gold plated.  Does it matter?

IMHO, if you buy a cheaper oil filter, that's what you get - a cheap 
oil filter.  Cut a Fram apart with a hacksaw (what's $1.98 
anyway...) and you will find that it's a shell with a thin piece of 
filterboard inside.  Worth less than it cost you.

And Mark Quinn/HNS <Mark_Quinn@notesgw.hns.com> asked

> Last week I posted a question about where to get Oil Filters
> for the A4 (cheaper than the $20 my dealer wants).  I got a
> couple responses including someone suggesting using the Diesel
> engine filter.  That got me to thinking ... what is the 
> difference between ANY oil filter?  I had always assumed that
> the fitting (size) was the thing, but looking around an Auto
> parts store over the weekend, many (not all) filters use the
> same screw dia/thread/seal dia and only differ by outside
> dimensions of the can itself.  Assuming the same screw/seal
> fitting and that the 'can' will fit and is as big (or bigger) 
> than the original, is there other difference between filters 
> by a given manufacturer (PLEASE leave manufacturer to 
> manufacturer differences out of this thread!).

Off the top of my head, differences include the following:

a)  Inside thread
b)  Outside diamater
c)  Total capacity (1/2 qt. vs. 1 qt. vs other)
d)  Anti-drainback valve, or not?
e)  Bypass valve, or not?
f)   Quality of filtration material.
g)  How well the filter gasket is supported.

FAIR WARNING:  I have strong perferences in oil filters and 
lubricants, often voiced on this group.  I think the Amsoil filters 
are the best for the money, and I will use their qualities to illustrate 
this response.

A and B are not material.  They just fit.

C is material if a manufatturer makes two filters which fit your car, 
but one holds twice the oil of the other.  You are better off using 
the larger one, if it will fit.  Why?  Because you run more total 
oil, which adds to your engine cooling (oil is a big-time heat sink) 
and because more total filtration surface means you will filter more 
of the oil circulating.  Both are GOOD.  

D and E are both desirable.  Filters which have one or both valves 
are better than those which do not.  IF your filter mounts pointing 
straight down, the anti-drainback filter doesn't matter much, as 
gravity will not drain the oil out.  If it mounts horizontally, then 
an anti-drainback valve keeps you from having to pump up pressure in 
the filter every time you start after the car has sat for a while.    
I will note that all Amsoil filters have both kinds of valves.  Most 
(I would suspect all, but I've never looked....) Frams have neither.

F is very important.  Most of the filters out there use one layer of 
filter paper wrapped around a center post, and they are flimsy, to be 
extremely kind.  Buy a Fram and Purolater and whatever else you want 
to, cut the end off, and look at the innards.  Highly educational.  
Amsoil filters use over 1/2" of dense filtration material from top to 
bottom in the filter, and they filter particles down to only a few 
microns in size.  They are heads and shoulders above the others I 
have inspected.  I'm NOT saying there aren't filters which are as 
good, just that I have never found them.  It would be nice if someone 
on this group would take a hacksaw to one of the Audi filters and 
report their findings.

G is important!  The first thing my Chevy pickup did after I put on a 
cheap (aka: Fram) filter was to blow the gasket right out the side of 
its mount.  Trust me, it WAS properly installed and tested - but 1/4 
mile down the road, POW!!!!  I looked and there was an oil slick down 
the center of the road.  There really wasn't much to hold the gasket 
in place on that Fram.  I replaced it and have had no problems since.

> Well, am I going to stir anything up here?  I really am 
> interested if there are any diffs in filters other than 
> fitting & size (& manufacturer!).

Mark, that oughta be stirring up enuf fer' today!!

(But that's OK, the other list-members knew I would do this....)  ;-)



......................................................
Al Powell, Ph.D.                 Voice:  409/845-2807
107 Reed McDonald Bldg.          Fax:    409/862-1202
College Station, TX 77843      
Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm

"The secret to keeping winning streaks going is to maximize 
the victories, while at the same time minimizing the defeats".
     (J. Lowenstein, Baltimore Orioles Outfielder)

------------------------------

From: "POSTMASTER" <POSTMASTER@snrichards.com>
Date: Tue Jan 07, 1997 16:46
Subject: Unsent Message Returned to Sender

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- -------- Original Message Text --------

quattro-digest            Tuesday, 7 January 1997      Volume 04 : Number 025

*
*  Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
*  See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
*  In this issue:
help-how to replace rear speakers in 90/CQ with amp? (wiring diagrams)
Re: What is this by the gas tank? '85 GT
Re: Help Friend Fried His Brain!
Re: Another look in the mirror
Re: "Hey Mister, ya wanna buy some lights?"(aka 5.
Fast Q (or 2) for sale
My urq is on a Porsche Club web page!
Audi Production Numbers
20v Oil Filter?
Re: Audi Weisbaden Radio...
Re: What is this by the gas tank? '85 GT
Ignition wires
Thanks to all
Re: Bose radio for sale / '90 90q20v
Re: 20v Oil Filter?
Urgent request: Help!  I'm about to be eaten by a $500 alternator
[none]
[none]
[Fwd: Fast Q (or 2) for sale]
Re: Leaking Water Pump please HELP
No Subject
Re[2]: Ignition wires
5.0 Trash Post
South African Euro 200 turbo needs
Oil Filter differences in general (A4 in particular)

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: RELAYER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:11:10 -0500
Subject: help-how to replace rear speakers in 90/CQ with amp? (wiring diagrams)

Well, I pulled the rear speakers last night out of the Coupe Q with Dave
Head, in an attempt to wire around the amps to get rid of my stereo "whine".
 In the process I broke the cone on one speaker, it was so old and brittle
that I slightly touched it and it started to fall apart in my hands.

So, it's time to replace the rear speakers!  Does anyone who replaced their
rears remember the wiring diagrams or which colors to use for the speakers?
 there is about 10 wires going into those things, I've figured out which are
for the tweeters, but the rest is a mystery.  Tell me what you did in
replacing your rear speakers, how you integrate the tweeters and what type of
speakers I should buy without spending alot of $.


Thanks!  

                    /\        _I             Christian J. Long
                  /    \ I_I I_I I           Orlando, Florida, USA
                                             University of Central Florida
Class of 1994
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1990 Coupe Quattro    Red/Black, K&N cone, BBS wheels, 80K          
1990 90                     Gold/Tan, 70K, LOOKING FOR REAR WING SPOILER
Past Audis:
'80 5KT  '84 Coupe GT  '85 Coupe GT  '87 Coupe GT2.3  '875KCST(was Dad's)  
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

- ------------------------------

From: "Barry P. Lewis" <barry@ctron.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:13:47 -0500
Subject: Re: What is this by the gas tank? '85 GT

Yes, it's a pre-filter. Designed to keep stuff out of the fuel pump.

Change it at the same time you do the big filter.


Barry
'86 4000CS Quattro


- ------------------------------

From: Glenn Lawton <lawtonglenn@gsmai.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 08:30:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Help Friend Fried His Brain!

Trisha Blethen wrote:
> ...how does one fry the brain?

Drugs. Don't you remember the public service announcements?

Glenn

- ------------------------------

From: "." <v431@v431.ultranet.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:23:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Another look in the mirror

Scott et al,

I had a pair of Euro beams on my '84 Maxima, got them from a motorcycle =
dealer.  I did use them in fog here on the East Coast.  Mostly they were =
completely superior to the stock lights, but I think you are correct =
about the bounce back, for fog, but it doesn't have to be thick or pea =
soup.  Fatigue starts in mild fog sooner than poor vision.  I would have =
to say that >95% of the time they are better than stock lights.  In =
areas where one gets fog often, I would say it would cut back to 90% or =
so.


3)  Euro beam pattern is not well suited for the US of A....
It has a sharp cutoff for about 1/2 the beam spread,
then angles up to the right, the object of this is
to give a longer throw of beam down the right side of the car without
blinding oncoming traffic (yes UK patterns are the opposite) ....  It is =
also
meant to be turned OFF when running fogs in the really thick stuff, few
states here allow this as a rule....  The reflectance from that angle up =
beam
is prolly worse than the US low beam pattern.....


I enjoyed the upsweep on the right (USA) to read road signs, see =
pedestrians, etc. except in fog.  Then I think one runs into glare =
coming back too soon & high distracting one from the road directly =
ahead.  In good weather one will see bicyclists & people walking at =
night which is quite useful.

Maybe someone from a country or area with lots of fog & using Euro's =
presently would like to comment, Phil etc.?

To say that there is something better & almost impossible to find in the =
proper low beams should be illegal.  Well that's good, it is.  Your =
posts make me wish I could buy a fixture to allow a round quad setup in =
my '93 100CSQ with Lexan covers like the inferior WMB's.  To make it =
myself is probably 8 - 12 hrs work without the proper shop, only drill & =
jigsaw.  Can't make molded Lexan myself.




Vince Jones
v431@ultranet.com

'93 100CSQ stick, steel wheels & Dunlop 200 Graspics

- ------------------------------

From: Robert Myers <rmyers@inetone.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:37:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: "Hey Mister, ya wanna buy some lights?"(aka 5.

At 01:14 AM 1/7/97 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Hey Buttmuch, Who's wasting who's bandwith? 

- - --- BFD snip ---

Hey Fellers,

A post that starts with such a salutation as "Buttmuch" is a "bit much".
How about either toning it down or taking it off-list.  

I (and I suspect a lot of others) frankly don't give a sh*t about your
particular gripe with each other but there's no reason to cause a nice,
friendly, cooperative, and helpful group such as the quattro list to
degenerate into a flame-fest.

___
   Bob
****************************************************
*  Robert L. Myers         rmyers@inetone.net>     *
*  Rt. 1, Box 57            304-574-2372           *
*  Fayetteville, WV 25840                          *
*  Obligatory quattro and sleddog-L references:    *
*  My 3 huskies enjoy riding in my '89 200TQ       *
****************************************************




- ------------------------------

From: KLeeds <kerry.griffith@m.k12.ut.us>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 08:09:15 -0700
Subject: Fast Q (or 2) for sale

I've noticed some of you looking for these, so thought I'd alert you. 
Bob at CPA Motorcars (Northridge?, Ca) has the following:
91 200q - silver, 64k miles, asking $17,500
91 5 speed V8 - black, 60some k miles, asking over 20k

Never met the man, usual disclaimers, etc.

Leeds
91 200 (a few tweaks)

- ------------------------------

From: Glenn Lawton <lawtonglenn@gsmai.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 09:03:51 -0600
Subject: My urq is on a Porsche Club web page!

Yesterday I got the North Country Region newsletter
of the PCA, and it announced their new web page.

Looking through it, I was pleased and surprised to find
a picture of me and my 1983 Gobi Beige ur-quattro, passing
some 944 Turbos, and closing on a 911 2.7 at NHIS.

http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~bobt/
then click on the link for the Driver Education
then after the schedule, click the Photos link
I'm in the top right picture

You can get there directly:
http://www.bluefin.net/~bobt/mainst.gif

Glenn

- ------------------------------

From: Tim Reilley <75667.1310@compuserve.com>
Date: 07 Jan 97 09:01:09 EST
Subject: Audi Production Numbers

Where can I find a listing for production numbers for various Audi models?  I am
looking for how many '90-91 Coupe Quattros were brought into the US.

TIA
Tim
ME


- ------------------------------

From: tgsgronback@mindspring.com (Steve Gronback)
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:27:11 -0500
Subject: 20v Oil Filter?

        I purchased a Fram oil filter for my '91 20v 200 Quattro Turbo.  It
fits, is cheap, and is the correct Fram part #.  The dealer, however, says
don't use anything but the Audi filter (at 10 times the price).
        Is this good advice?  Is the Audi filter gold plated.  Does it matter?
 
Lynne Gronback
alkdjf
lkajdhf
lkajdhf

- ------------------------------

From: "Kurt Wesseling" <kwessel@enm.maine.edu>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:34:41 EST
Subject: Re: Audi Weisbaden Radio...

Dave:

I was able to remove the radio sucessfully using 3 jewelers 
screwdrivers in the release holes.

Turns out is was a blown fuse.  Visited my local Radio Shack, got a 
new fuse, and voila! music.  Now I have to figure out why one of the 
speakers isn't working.  Wiring, I suppose.

Thanks again.

> Date:          Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:12:49 -0500 (EST)
> To:            "Kurt Wesseling" <kwessel@enm.maine.edu>
> From:          "Dave C." <conner@cfm.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       Re: Audi Weisbaden Radio...

> Glad to help.
> a couple more tips...
> If you use finishing nails...cut the points off so they are flat on the end.
> 
> The proper depth to insert them is about 3/4 inch...give or take...feel for
> the catch.
> 
> The radio may be stubborn about pulling forward...Keep wiggling and pulling.
> This stubbornness will be the main problem, because you won't be sure if
> maybe the catches aren't released properly.
> 
> DC
> >
> >> Re; the non-working radio in your 87 5KCSTQ...
> >> It probly has a blown fuse.
> >> Pull the radio out of the dash and find a little black plastic fuse cover on
> >> the back of it.  
> >> The fuse is an odd size which can be found at Radio Shack.
> >> To pull the radio...insert four fat wires in each of the four corner holes
> >> in the faceplate.
> >> There are clips in there which are released by the four wires (or nails or
> >> whatever you can find that fits and is stiff).  It helps if the wires are
> >> close to the same size as the holes and have flat (not pointed) ends. The
> >> flat ends will allow you to feel a stop when they are inserted the right
> >> distance.  Finishing nails about three inches long will work. 
> >> Once the four thingies are inserted properly, pull the radio straight toward
> >> you.
> >> 
> >> DC
> >> David Conner  Columbus, OH 
> >> '87 5KS,  '89 100E, '86 4KCSQ 
> >> 
> >> 

______________________________
Kurt Wesseling
Technical Support Center
The Education Network of Maine
800-696-4357
______________________________

- ------------------------------

From: Dan Simoes <dans@ans.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:42:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: What is this by the gas tank? '85 GT

> The dreaded Sediment trap.  This little bugger caused me ALL SORTS of 
> headaches when I was having a WOT driviability problem.  It got so full 
> of sediment that is was limiting the amout of fuel that could get to the 
> pump.  Renew that sucker every filter change.

Yeah?  When I bitched about the dealer not having it in stock,
the parts guy says "no need to stock, they never change 
those".  Another reason why I think Howard Holmes Audi is going
to be dead within the year.

| Dan | 

- ------------------------------

From: tbrown@NISE-P.nosc.mil
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:41:44 -0500
Subject: Ignition wires

     After 140K mi. I recently replaced the ignition wires on my 86 CGT.  I 
     bought a Bosch wire set for Audi.  The old wires fanned out to the 
     plugs through a routing tube.  I yanked on the distributor end 
     connectors of the old wires to see how the factory got them through 
     the tube.  They came right off.  I gingerly pulled on the Bosch wire 
     to see if it would do the same but I was afraid of ruining them ($70). 
      Does anyone know if the Bosch wires come apart in order to route 
     through the tube?
     
     Tom Brown 

- ------------------------------

From: "Kurt Wesseling" <kwessel@enm.maine.edu>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:55:26 EST
Subject: Thanks to all

Hey all !

Thanks to many of you for responding to my newbie '87 5KCSTQ
computer questions.  I think I have it figured now, thanks to your 
help.  

.Now if I can just figure out why one of the speakers on the same
car isn't "speaking!"

- - --Kurt
1987 5KCSTQ 119k 

______________________________
Kurt Wesseling
Technical Support Center
The Education Network of Maine
800-696-4357
______________________________

- ------------------------------

From: Paul_Royal@isserv9.idx.com
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:56:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Bose radio for sale / '90 90q20v

The '90 90Q20V "DOES" indeed have rear amplified speakers with an
integrated crossover (that is, part of the system for actually pretty
decent stock component speakers.  I've got a high powered CDP (well, OK,
12w per ch) hooked to front and rears by bypassing the rear amps but also
wiring directly through those crossovers...sounds pretty decent.
          Royal

- ------------------------------

From: Andrew Duane USG/PE <duane@zk3.dec.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:48:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 20v Oil Filter?

Hairy green toads from Mars made Steve Gronback say:

>         I purchased a Fram oil filter for my '91 20v 200 Quattro Turbo.  It
> fits, is cheap, and is the correct Fram part #.  The dealer, however, says
> don't use anything but the Audi filter (at 10 times the price).
>         Is this good advice?  Is the Audi filter gold plated.  Does it matter?

It's not gold-plated, but it does have a *working* filter medium
in it (not paper like the Fram), and a drain-back valve, important
to valve train life.

Don't buy them at the dealer. I get them from my local import parts
store for about $4-5. Imparts sells them mail order for about the same.
Blaufergnugen has them for (I think) $3 in case lots of 12.

- - -- 

Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7)			duane@zk3.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corporation		(603)-881-1294
110 Spit Brook Road
M/S ZKO3-3/U14
Nashua, NH    03062-2698

Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too heavy to care.

- ------------------------------

From: ekellock@juno.com (Edward J Kellock)
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 09:57:21 EST
Subject: Urgent request: Help!  I'm about to be eaten by a $500 alternator

'91 200qw, dead alternator.

Just got a call from the dealer.  The brushes look okay, the alt itself
is dead.  They do not recommend the Bosch authorized repair facility in
the area (had a bad BTDT with another customer who used them).  I'm going
to call Blau now and see how screwed I really am.  

Any help will be most appreciated!  TIA.

Ed Kellock          91 200qw - Indigo blue, titanium leather, IA Stage 3
Lansing, IA          87 gt coupe - Alpine white, white leather, TSW Evo's

- ------------------------------

From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


- ------------------------------

From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


- ------------------------------

From: KLeeds <kerry.griffith@m.k12.ut.us>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 09:45:56 -0700
Subject: [Fwd: Fast Q (or 2) for sale]

KLeeds wrote:
> 
> 91 200q - silver, 64k miles, asking $17,500
> 91 5 speed V8 - black, 60some k miles, asking over 20k

Oops- 818-885-5000 (Sorry- early morning fog)

 Leeds

- ------------------------------

From: paul.heneghan@bbc.co.uk (Paul Heneghan)
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 15:30:08 GMT
Subject: Re: Leaking Water Pump please HELP

From: dougev <dougev@newpig3.newpig.com>

>Quattrophiles,
>    My 85 4KQ is leaking water from the water pump.  It leaks about 6 ozs
>per week and seems to be getting worse.  I only put a few 100 miles per
>week on it.  What can I expect relative to the final failure?  Will it
>slowly go or can I expect a big blow out?  Anyone give me a guess of how
>long I have until I have to change it?

Mine did that a few of years ago, and then stopped doing it for two years! 
 The gush changed to a very slow leak - I didn't even use RadWeld.  Some of 
them fail catastrophically and it becomes very expensive to replace all that 
antifreeze so often.  Replace it as soon as it is convenient..

>    Also,  when I do change it I guess I should also do the timing belt.

Essential!!!

>In the Bentley it shows some sort of extension on a torque wrench and a
>torque for that wrench.  Can someone tell me what the tightening torque
>is with no extension or multiplier....(with a big torque wrench directly
>on the pulley nut)

This has been discussed before and people have estimated about 400lbft. 
 This usually equates to standing on the end of a 3 foot breaker bar!

>    I also have another question...My compression ratios vary quite a lot..
>120 - 155- 108 - 159 - 128.   The car doesn't burn oil and starts fairly
>quickly and seems to have good power.   What might be the cause of these
>low numbers? (Car has 88,000 miles on it)  Could it be burnt valves?  I
>read something in Bentley about little cracks in the valve seats...is
>this a common problem and could this be the cause?  While I have the
>timing belt off..should I do a head job?

108 beside 159 sounds a bit much.  Check Bentley/Haynes for specifications. 
 Have you tried pouring oil in the spark plug hole and repeating the test? 
 If things improve, then rings are at fault.  If no improvement, then valves 
or gasket.  At those sort of miles, it might be worth replacing the valve 
guides if you are lifting the head - you probably won't need to touch the 
engine again for another 88,000 miles.

Paul
paul.heneghan@bbc.co.uk
1984 Audi 80 quattro
1983 Audi 100 Avant


- ------------------------------

From: paul.heneghan@bbc.co.uk (Paul Heneghan)
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 15:38:16 GMT
Subject: No Subject

From: quk@sievers.com (Phil Payne)

>I think I'm going to buy myself some fuel injection tools.

Where does one buy FI tools in this wretched country (England)?  Anyone? 
 How much?

Paul
paul.heneghan@bbc.co.uk
1984 Audi 80 quattro
1983 Audi 100 Avant


- ------------------------------

From: tbrown@NISE-P.nosc.mil
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 10:38:31 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Ignition wires

     

     
If your loom (wiring harness) is like the one on my '89 100Q, it 
snaps open to put the wires in.
     
- - -- 
     
Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7)                 duane@zk3.dec.com 
Digital Equipment Corporation           (603)-881-1294 
110 Spit Brook Road
M/S ZKO3-3/U14
Nashua, NH    03062-2698
     
Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too heavy to care.



        It appears to be a single piece.  No snaps.

Tom Brown

- ------------------------------

From: Mann Law <mannlaw@indy.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 10:28:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 5.0 Trash Post

	James:

	Although it was a waste of bandwidth [and this is too:)], don't 
be so hard on your friend.  Just tell him to put his money where his big 
mouth is, ie.,:  Choose a track.  Loser pays track time and surrenders 
his car to winner.  Years ago I held the title to about a dozen "race" 
cars, didn't pay a nickel for any of 'em.  Frankly, I love these guys.


	Bruce

- ------------------------------

From: Thompson Smith <thompers@together.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 10:48:36 -0500
Subject: South African Euro 200 turbo needs

Subject: Audi 200 turbo spares
   Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 17:13:02 +0200 (SAT)
  From:  Edward Backhouse <kcabde@ilink.nis.za>
[FWD from] To: thompers@together.net

Hi there!!!,

I'm desperate to locate 5   X   20thou oversize pistons for a german
manufactured 1982 Audi 200 turbo (I believe it was called the 5000 Turbo
in
the States).  The engine number is WJ019505 and the factory part number
is 
035107071F.

If you can assist,  please call back on Email kcabde@ilink.nis.za with
availability and pricing.

They want telephone numbers (cost) here in South Africa.


Kind Regards......................................Ed Backhouse

- ------------------------------

From: Mark Quinn/HNS <Mark_Quinn@notesgw.hns.com>
Date: 7 Jan 97 10:47:16 EST
Subject: Oil Filter differences in general (A4 in particular)

Last week I posted a question about where to get Oil Filters
for the A4 (cheaper than the $20 my dealer wants).  I got a
couple responses including someone suggesting using the Diesel
engine filter.  That got me to thinking ... what is the 
difference between ANY oil filter?  I had always assumed that
the fitting (size) was the thing, but looking around an Auto
parts store over the weekend, many (not all) filters use the
same screw dia/thread/seal dia and only differ by outside
dimensions of the can itself.  Assuming the same screw/seal
fitting and that the 'can' will fit and is as big (or bigger) 
than the original, is there other difference between filters 
by a given manufacturer (PLEASE leave manufacturer to 
manufacturer differences out of this thread!).

In this particular instance, I found a Fram PH8A that looks
close to my A4 filter.  I bought it (cheap) and took it home 
to compare to the filter I just replaced.  It IS the same 
thread/pitch and seal diameter, and the same can diameter. 
It is shorter than the Audi filter (by just under half an 
inch) but is a BIG filter anyway, so as a percentage, this 
size diff is small.  Secondly, the reason I think the A4 
filter is so big is that the oil change intervals are so 
long for the A4 (too long IMHO).  The first interval is 
7500miles, then at 15K (or 22.5K - I forget) intervals 
thereafter.  If you change oil at 3K-5K intervals I would 
assume you could use a much smaller filter (such as the filters
my prev Rabbit GTI, 4000Q and 90Q20V used to use - which 
again have the same fitting).

Well, am I going to stir anything up here?  I really am 
interested if there are any diffs in filters other than 
fitting & size (& manufacturer!).

- - -Mark Quinn

- ------------------------------

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