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RE: Oil Filters
The problem with this reasoning is that we are talking about engines that put
a little more stress on oil than a Ford Escort IE turbos. Also 110k is only
the beginning for most of our cars so if we check your car at say 200k as
opposed to 110 and compare that to someone using an OEM filter we may see a
diff.. That $4 per change may pay for the $1k-3k for engine replacement.
Just remember most of us dont replace our cars at 120k like most people.
Pat Martin
864000csq 2 1/2 cat back, H&R-Boge,advanced and loving it. Drilled and
stopping it. Koenig Cobra 16x7 with AVS Intermediates, cheap Kelly
Springfield snows now, K&N.
95 subaru legacy
Bothell, Wa.
I used almost exclusively Fram filters on my '87 Ford Escort (bought new in
'87), except when I took it to a quick-change place (I don't know what they
put in). I drive the pup hard - even broke the rack, three engine mounts,
several springs, and more - but after 110000, the engine compression is
still with-in original spec.
Fram may be designed cheap, but they do work. If all's well, you'll never
need the pressure relief valve, and an expensive one won't do better than a
cheap one. There are cheaper (i.e. less expensive) filters than Fram, but
Fram was rated tops in C.R. I do agree that it's silly to skimp on the
filter - if you have any doubts, use the branded one.
Just my $0.02.
>I have taken few oil filters apart from cars I have changed oil ( I
>used to work part time at a garage) and have found that the Fram oil
>filter is one of the cheapest designed and made of all of the ones
>I've taken apart. I was getting them free becouse I worked there,
>but after the discovery I was glad to pay extra for the VW/Audi
>filters.
>There is only one thin strip of steel acting as the pressure reliefe
>valve. God knows how many liters of oil have gone unfiltered due to
>that thin strip of steel.
>You can save a few bucks now, but the engine will get you later with
>a bigger bill!
>Stick to stock or better and do not compromize.
>